24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening


Go, Dan! I am betting they will be fine. I have found in past years that I actually get more snaps (and better tasting ones) from the fall crop than from the spring one....the weather only gets cooler as time goes on. By the time the plants start blooming, you should be over the hump. (or close)

Thanks, Donna. They're lookin' good. Actually, we have a cold front on the way, which will reduce the heat stress on them. That's where the temperature drops to the mid-90s. Get out your sweaters! Yeah, that's what a mid-August cold front in central Texas looks like ...




Depending on where you live in Zone 7, your best bet might be to plant a new crop of cucs. You have plenty of time to make a good crop. In my area, once the plants have been producing about two months, they start to succumb to all kinds of pests (pickleworms especially) and fungii. I think they are just old and tired, so I cut my losses, pull them out, and replant. If I had room, I would have a new crop ready to come on, but I don't. The break from them makes us glad to have them again in a few weeks.


If the end of the ears continue to not develop, I have to wonder if they had enough phosphorus and potassium [in relation to N] to develop the grain. How are any other garden crops doing?
I am wondering if the problem is drought damage...see link.
Here is a link that might be useful: tip fill
This post was edited by wayne_5 on Fri, Aug 9, 13 at 22:05

Given the adequate spacing I'm inclined to agree with Wayne, probably not enough water. The bottom part of that ear is fully mature. The tip 40% indicates a lack of some factor most likely water.
Water deficit is easy to see on corn. The leaves wilt and curl at first during the hottest part of the day. When they are wilting most of the day you will get ears like that picture.
A picture of the plants might help if further assistance is needed.

The silks will be brown and the ear will feel full. This will be about 2 weeks after it first silks. Pull the shucks back a bit and see if it is mature enough.
Once the corn is ready, if you cannot eat it fast enough, harvest it and store in the fridge....better than letting it get too tough.


Generally, potatoes need about 3 months( plus /minus 2 weeks) .
So I would plant the fall crop about 90 to110 days before my first frost date. Also, consider planting early varieties so that you won't be caught by surprise if you get a real early frost.
P.S>
I WOULD USE THE BEST OF ANY THING FOR PLANTING, JUST LIKE BREEDING IN ANIMALS WORLD.

As the temperatures here get into the triple digits with full sun, and don't drop much below 80F overnight, I have to say that leaving a drip system on continuously wouldn't hurt anyone here a bit. I have large plants in heavily mulched patches that still need regular soaking every two or three days. Large plants (8-foot cherry tomatoes, 4-foot peppers) suck large amounts of water out of the soil in these temperatures, and frankly it just has to be replaced. Mulch keeps the water from evaporating from the soil, but it sure doesn't keep plants from sucking it out of the soil.
But I agree that if your patch is well drained, you have nothing to worry about, whatever your climate. If you have mud, that's a problem.








Here's a pic of Cucumber beetle damage that I googled up, pretty good match. The damaged leaves in your pic look like older leaves, perhaps with older damage but the beetles are no longer around?