23,821 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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wertach zone 7-B SC

Well the soapy water seemed to at least make them move, I don't know where yet.

I put on some long rubber gloves, just in case and dug some out yesterday. I didn't see a single ant.

I'm still popping blisters from the other day!

    Bookmark     May 28, 2013 at 11:45AM
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lkzz(7b)

Diatomaceous earth took care of an underground golden ant colony under my cukes.

Perhaps some orange oil treatment - I made my own by letting rinds (orange and lemon) covered with water stew in a crock-pot on high all day. Strain out liquid into jar when cooled.

Here is some info (go to the website to see how it is made):

Citrus oil is a natural, non-toxic insect deterrent and wards off fire ants, flies, aphids, mosquitoes, even fleas and may even help control the spread of West Nile Virus. Although safe to spray, citrus oil can irritate sensitive skin and damage the eyes.

If you are planning to spray plants instead of using harmful pesticides, citrus oil can be quite harsh and some plants may be sensitive to the oil. To preserve plants, be sure to dilute the mixture further, by adding one gallon of water for every two ounces of oil. The oil is great to spray on anthill mounds...

Here is a link that might be useful: How to make citrus oil to control insects

    Bookmark     May 29, 2013 at 11:12AM
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kookyCUKE

I used it for my squash because they were being hit pretty hard with critters eating up the leaves so I figured it wouldn't hurt everything else. Perhaps I was wrong. Lows are 72 and highs are 85 and its overall mildly humid. A storm is coming this weekend, so maybe the barometric pressure is causing this issue. Fertilizer wise I have not used anything since I transplanted, besides my fish food fertilizer on day one.

    Bookmark     May 28, 2013 at 10:06PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

The general guidelines for pesticides are

(1) use them only when actual pests are present AND doing actual damage.

(2) to work they have to come into contact with the bug. They are preventatives so you can't use them to try to prevent pests from coming to the garden.

(3) first identify the pest and then use a pesticide that is specific for that pest.

(4) always follow the label directions when it comes to mix rates, application frequency, and time of day for application.

(5) know your pesticide, what it works on and what it is made of.

When these guidelines aren't followed then far more beneficial insects are killed than pests. Numerous studies show that as much as 95% of the "bugs" (insects) in the average garden are either beneficial insects or what are called "neutrals" that do no damage.

Squash has 2 primary pests - squash vine borers and squash bugs. Organocide doesn't list either of them on its label for use. So what pest issue were you having with the squash?

It lists only:

Citrus rust mites
Spider mites
Armored and soft scales
Mealy bugs
White-flies
Aphids
Leaf-rollers
Leaf miner
Fungus gnats
Thrips
Sago Palm Scale
Glassy Winged Sharpshooters

Organocide is and oil-based spray (97% oil and 3% emulsifiers) so when applied to the pepper and tomato blooms the oil can coat the reproductive parts of the bloom and gum up the pollen and prevent pollination from happening.

92% of the oil in Organocide is fish oil which is very high in nitrogen. So given your weather conditions the odds are that the primary cause of your problems with blossom drop is all the unnecessary spraying you have been doing.

Hope all this helps you resolve the issues.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Organocide Pesticide

    Bookmark     May 29, 2013 at 9:58AM
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farmerdill

You are a few weeks away. The Yellow Granex is normally harvested in May, but yours are a bit behind. They will fall over and the tops will die. Until then they take a lot of water to bulb up.
My short day reds are late this season also.

    Bookmark     May 29, 2013 at 7:55AM
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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

It may go without saying, but you can start harvesting some now for fresh use if you like. I think there is something special about the flavor of a young bulbing sweet onion on the grill. We just slice them in half, pull of any lower/outer leaves that are brown or tough and grill the whole thing. Yum!

    Bookmark     May 29, 2013 at 9:57AM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

ChicagoDeli,

1- worm castings should not go anywhere. They are like rotted leaves, compost etc.
2-A bucket over a small plant , in cloudy, rainy day/night, even under partly sun, should not hurt it.

3- depending on the size of your garden and the number of plants, there could be different method. I used to cover my sowed beds(before and around germination time) with plastic during the nights and down pours. But your BUCKET FO A PLANT is also is a practical way.

    Bookmark     May 29, 2013 at 3:39AM
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ChicagoDeli37

I'm going to buy tarps today. And use buckets to keep them up over the plants everything has been completely soaked for days now and more big storms on the way.

    Bookmark     May 29, 2013 at 9:09AM
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austransplant(MD 7)

Moschata squash are not immune to SVB, but I have found that the odds of getting a crop from unprotected Moschata squash are a lot higher here in Maryland than with other varieties of squash. Tromboncino is a very vigorous vining squash, best grown on a trellis so that the squash end up straight and not curled up. I'll be interested to hear how the tatume squash do; I've not heard of them before.

    Bookmark     May 28, 2013 at 11:30PM
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annew21(7b NC)

I'm growing loufa gourd this year, pretty different from zucchini but shaped like zucchini and edible when it's small. I'm going to try and use it in stir fries to see if it's any good. If not, sponges galore! I am so tired of fighting the SVBs...thought I'd give it a chance.

    Bookmark     May 29, 2013 at 8:15AM
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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

They are now flowering. The one with the curled leaves less than the other, but that"s a good sign to me!
I wouldn't think they would flower if they're ill.
We shall see! Nancy

    Bookmark     May 28, 2013 at 8:55PM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

So with tulle over your plants, how will the bees get to the flowers?

jonfrum;

luckily with tomatillo, tomato , pepper, eggplant.. you don't need insects help that much. some wind or tapping can do it, because, each flower is self sufficient in terms of its sexual needs : D

    Bookmark     May 29, 2013 at 5:16AM
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ChicagoDeli37

Thanks

The rain here in non stop. Now storming bad, everything is way over watered and now starting to look beat up , not off to a good start

    Bookmark     May 28, 2013 at 9:19PM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

Rain and excess water due to it although not a good thing , but given the arrangements you have (raised beds), should not cause for too much worry, if the soil has drainage property(compost, sand, organic matter). ALSO, I notice from the pictures that some of your beds have frame around them, which you can cover them with plastic , to protect them from excess rain.

But I think, we should always prepare the soil such that in heavy rains drains well. We cannot control the climate nut can only comply with it.

    Bookmark     May 29, 2013 at 4:51AM
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brittanyw(8a)

I'd add that problem weeds are mostly native to the local region, and are therefore much better-adapted to the climate, soil, etc, than most vegetables, which are "imported" (so to speak) and made to grow only under special conditions (amended soil, fertilizer, specific time-frames, etc). Of course, you can cultivate similar qualities in veggies for which you save the seeds of the most successful plants, but it would take a long time to see similar results, probably much longer than one lifetime. It's no wonder weeds grow so prolifically in comparison.

In general, to the original poster, I think it's great to ask questions about the habitual assumptions and practices of any practice. It makes us think about why we're doing what we're doing as well as share ideas about how to do it better. Conventional wisdom is often right, but it's often wrong too.

    Bookmark     May 28, 2013 at 7:14PM
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pnbrown

I agree with saysonn, it has all to do with the size of the crop plant, as well as size of the crop seed and type of weed. Big-seeded crops like corn and beans, for example, can compete with weeds somewhat better than small-seeded ones like lettuce, carrots.

One of these days I'm going to get with it and try stale-bedding for certain crops, especially carrots.

    Bookmark     May 28, 2013 at 7:51PM
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pnbrown

I'm not sure if I have grown both, definitely one of them, it is superb.

    Bookmark     May 28, 2013 at 7:31PM
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LawrenceJ2007

Alright I thought the same thing. I put them into containers so I will see in a few days whats happening.

Thanks for the reply!

    Bookmark     May 28, 2013 at 5:06PM
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donnabaskets(Zone 8a, Central MS)

I had a similar problem with my peppers. I think the trouble was they just didn't like the unusually cool weather we have had. Now that it has warmed up, they are taking off. (They are in nice big pots, and were when they were dropping leaves.) They are now replacing the leaves, putting on size, and blooming. I gave them some Osmocote when I put them in their summer pots.

    Bookmark     May 28, 2013 at 6:24PM
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woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

I agree with flora.. colored stalks is very common on peppers and it's awfully early for powdery mildew on cucurbits. Pic of the zucchini would help. However, regarding powdery mildew -- if and when you do finally see it, it's too late. You actually want to be preemptive with the treatment. So, when you think it's about that time of the year for it to show up, that's when you want to start treating it. At least that's what the experts on GW told me. I plan on including that regimen this summer.

Kevin

    Bookmark     May 24, 2013 at 2:32PM
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bjazmineee

Thank you, what a relief that the peppers are normal!
I sprayed the zucchini for a few days with the baking soda and soap mixture, it seemed to do more harm than good, I think it actually burned the leaves a bit.

I'm attaching a photo of the zucchini leaves, do you think they look normal? I'm noticing now that the smaller leaves that are appearing have turned brown as well.

    Bookmark     May 28, 2013 at 3:03PM
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farmerdill

Concur: That heavy flower stalk extends into the center. The onion will not keep at all as that stalk deteriorates. Outer rings, if they form and on short day onions they usually do, will be good for use if you cut them away from that central stalk.

    Bookmark     May 28, 2013 at 2:10PM
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wantonamara Z8 CenTex

Thanks all. That is what I thought. They are already yanked. and is dinner tonight.I had one flower in the whole scad of onion sets so not bad. The onions are fairly small since I never give them the room they deserve because my garden is only 20' x 16' and between trees..

    Bookmark     May 28, 2013 at 2:40PM
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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

I don't see any photos either. Bad tastes in lettuce usually come from too much heat or too much dry or too old. The outer leaves are the oldest and most highly flavored. Butter head is a heading lettuce and as such it is best used by harvesting the whole head. Pick off the outer leaves and try the inner ones. It may taste much much better. I don't always eat the outer leaves on my romaine for the same reason.

    Bookmark     May 28, 2013 at 10:55AM
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AiliDeSpain(6a - Utah)

I heard that if you soak the lettuce in cold water for about an hour after harvesting it will not be as bitter, also the longer it's refrigerated the more it will lose it's bitter taste.

    Bookmark     May 28, 2013 at 12:17PM
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farmerdill

Use them for green onions. Sets are long day onions that don't start bulbing until late June. They are notorious for bolting because they are last years growth. Yours is most likely Red Wetherfield. When you want bulb onions use plants appropriate to your area.

    Bookmark     May 28, 2013 at 11:12AM
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AiliDeSpain(6a - Utah)

I had sets in the ground from last year that did the same thing. I pulled them and used as green onions. I do however have one still in the ground beginning to bulb. It does have a flower but it is not huge yet like the others got.
I planted sets this spring as well and so far so good no bolting. I hope they bulb up in July.

    Bookmark     May 28, 2013 at 12:15PM
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BigN_187(9)

Interesting... So it looks like they are either Green Arrow shelling peas, or sugar snap pole peas...?

The dry pods were sort of difficult to open... I had to cut them, pretty much. However - I thought Green Arrow pods usually have peas more in the 8-11 range...? All of these pods had 5-6 peas, max.

And the fewest I counted in all the pods I got was 2.

This post was edited by BigN_187 on Tue, May 28, 13 at 1:51

    Bookmark     May 28, 2013 at 1:35AM
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farmerdill

Green Arrow was just an example of a wrinkle seeded pea That I had handy. All of them both shelling and snap will have a similar appearance. If they were difficult to open then I would lean toward a snap pea. They have fleshy pods which when dried don't open as easily as the tougher stringy pods of a shelling pea. There are over 300 named varieties of English pea and over 40 varieties of snap pea. However the number that will get 4 ft tall is pretty limited. You can probably make a decent guess after you grow them out.

    Bookmark     May 28, 2013 at 11:24AM
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