23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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farmerdill

Champion is an early red radish and yes it is a cool weather crop. That means daytime temps consistent below 90. If you are in a cool summer climate they should do ok. Tops make decent greens when treated as a turnip green. They don't have very large tops tho.

    Bookmark     last Friday at 3:49PM
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nila0
Thank you. I live in nj. So I guess I can sow now and hopefull done by July ?
    Bookmark     last Friday at 4:41PM
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Ohiofem(6a Ohio)

Are you sure you have adequate drainage holes in the window box? You should be able to water until water comes out the bottom. You have fungus gnats because of the soil you are using, which is not really a good soil for containers in spite of what the label says. Push you finger deep into the soil mix and see if it is soggy or just damp. If it is soggy, your plants can develop root rot.

It would be better to use a sol-less mix that doesn't include the organic ingredients like bat guano and poultry manure. But, since you have already planted, I recommend adding mosquito bits (or crumbled up mosquito dunks) to your water and using that a few times on your soil. They contain Bt, a very safe organic insecticide that is the only thing that can kill fungus gnat larva in the soil. Fungus gnats won't kill your plants, but they won't help either.

    Bookmark     last Friday at 2:10PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

<I have a 12" plastic planter and two 36 x 6.7 window boxes.>

Not nearly big enough for banana, bell, and Jalapeno pepper plants. 5 gallon buckets or equivalent are the very minimum for for those varieties. All 3 types are easily 3' to 4' tall plants, easily 2' to 3' wide and with a root ball 12-18" wide. I strongly suggest you invest in much bigger containers to transplant them into and as Ohiofem said, fill those containers with a good quality soil-less potting mix, not a potting soil for best results.

Dave

    Bookmark     last Friday at 3:55PM
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Peter (6b SE NY)

I would plant them myself, 50 is not too bad. It is June 1st in a few days so really it is time to pull the trigger.... they are small though so you may want to protect them from flea beetles and other pests.

    Bookmark     last Friday at 2:46PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Good point about the flea beetles. At that size/age they can destroy the plants. When larger plants go out they can usually tolerate the flea beetles. So consider some row cover for them - will both warm them and keep the beetles off.

Dave

    Bookmark     last Friday at 3:39PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Agree. leaf miners. They don't pose any real threat to the plants. As mentioned just remove the leaves and/or squish the worm.

As for the yellow bottom leaves, that is usually from over-watering, a common problem when using containers as you are. Since nutrients leach out of the pot every time you water you need to replace them regularly and make sure your water pattern is one of consistency - not too much and not too little.

Plus there is clearly lots more room in your pot for more soil. The more soil in the container the easier it is to stabilize the watering.

Lots of info about all this over on the Container Gardening forum here.

Dave

    Bookmark     last Thursday at 1:14PM
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Rosa Saavedra

Thank you everyone! I will definitely take your advice

    Bookmark     last Friday at 3:33PM
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zzackey(8b GA)

Try hosing them off. Please don't use Seven!

    Bookmark     last Friday at 9:50AM
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vgkg(Z-7)

And avoid using the cheaper generic brand called Sevin too ;o)

Smashing aphids with fingers during hosing off process helps with complete extermination. Watch out for the possible return of aphid herding ants in the days ahead.

    Bookmark     last Friday at 2:57PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Honestly, most all seed vendors - even the big box stores - now offer many heirloom varieties of seeds so you can probably buy many locally.

The problem is that for marketing purposes many vendors label them "heirlooms" when they really are not. They are open-pollinated varieties, not hybrids, but don't have the age or documented history to really qualify as heirlooms. So it is a shopper-beware situation if true heirlooms are what you want.

Dave

    Bookmark     last Friday at 11:51AM
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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)
    Bookmark     last Friday at 12:38PM
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LoneJack Zn 6a, KC

Very strange weather indeed NHBabs I wish I could send some of this rain we are getting to the NE. I'm just the opposite here in Kansas City area (where it is currently raining again), other than watering in a few seeds I have not had to water my garden at all this year and it is a good thing that I raked up raised beds in my in ground beds or everything planted in them would be drowned. I can't walk on the paths between the raised rows even though I put down cardboard and grass clippings over them. Things are looking up though with the 10 day forecast showing only a small chance of rain any day. I think most of the farmers around here managed to get their corn planted, but I don't think many soy beans have been planted yet.

    Bookmark     last Friday at 5:55AM
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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

Plenty of rain here...no extreme amounts, but the farmers could not plant a lot until very recently due to rain.

    Bookmark     last Friday at 12:07PM
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tomtuxman(6bNY)

They are a bush variety, so why the cage?

    Bookmark     last Friday at 6:01AM
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njitgrad

Because my feeling is that the containers (especially with the loose 5-1-1 mix) won't support the spreading branches after a while. I figure the upper branches will rest on the cage as it grows upwards. It's just an experiment at this point. Last year I grew yellow squash in regular growing soil and it didn't do so well so every year I try something new.

    Bookmark     last Friday at 6:11AM
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Peter (6b SE NY)

I see some possible tip burn in the pic. How long ago did you transplant them? What have the temperatures been like? They are small, I'd lay off the fertilizer and give them time to adjust myself.. but I am far from the pepper guru :)

    Bookmark     last Friday at 5:48AM
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bunnydefluff

The best way other than using your hands is to use plastic mulch.

    Bookmark     last Thursday at 11:10PM
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NHBabs(4b-5aNH)

If you use plastic mulch you need to arrange for watering under the plastic. I either hoe or use an organic mulch. The advantage of using an organic mulch is that it allows air and moisture in, but reduces weeds and helps retain moisture.

    Bookmark     last Friday at 5:40AM
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jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

Sun damage. Tissue dried out. Perhaps a brief episode of an extra bright and/or extra dry, day.

    Bookmark     last Thursday at 10:52PM
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galinas(5B)

Agree, definitely sun damage.

    Bookmark     last Friday at 3:46AM
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piersonse

Thanks tishtosh - good to know. I just found your post from a few years ago - great information.

    Bookmark     last Thursday at 11:34AM
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jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

In my area, we've been having problems with this sort of contamination for at least 5 years. None so far this year but it's very early in the growing season for us. Warm weather crops aren't in as yet.

When you obtain the manure, you can -- and should -- ask about any herbicides used on the farm or by the farmer.
But you need to know that some farmers won't have a specific answer because they have hired a pest control company/person to do their spraying for the crop/pasture. Even so, the farmer can request that info.

Okay, I first saw the info about managing soil where contaminated OM was used in WSU info about clopyralid contamination. (Clopyralid & Aminopyralid are very similar herbicides in their action & persistence.) http://puyallup.wsu.edu/soilmgmt-old/Clopyralid.html .

I don't see it now, but as I recall, the gist was to irrigate & cultivate actively through the season. Growing a "grass" (corn) would do the same thing and, IMO, make better use of the water.

- - - - -
I thought I was well informed about contaminated OM, but I hadn't come across some which has been added to this thread.

So, here's a plea to PLEASE include URLs for the info you're turning up. Doing so helps us all.

    Bookmark     last Thursday at 11:33PM
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jeanwedding(6 ky)

Hey Jim's how about posting a pic of uour wire and caed garden areas.>>>Thanks

    Bookmark     last Wednesday at 8:52PM
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westminstress

So I covered my peas with tulle and did not trim. So far so good, they are starting to flower! Now do I need to remove the tulle for pollination in order to get peas?

    Bookmark     last Thursday at 9:06PM
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tishtoshnm Zone 6/NM

Hard to say without a picture as there are different patterns of yellowing and they mean different things. I will say that putting potatoes out in Albuquerque just 3-4 weeks ago sounds rather late. Admittedly though, New Mexico is not conducive to potato growing but it is fun to keep trying.

    Bookmark     last Thursday at 8:31PM
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LoneJack Zn 6a, KC

Dave - I have never used row covers but I think I might get some this year for my fall broccoli because the cabbage moths usually find them and start laying eggs before I even have them hardened off.

    Bookmark     last Thursday at 8:37AM
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Ohiofem(6a Ohio)

Many tomato growers do advocate preventive spraying for fungal diseases. Chlorothalinil or Daconil is considered most effective, but I am nervous about using it. So I have used actinovate, neem oil and serenade with some success to slow down early blight. I haven't had problems with other diseases, so I don't generally use fungicides on anything but tomatoes.

    Bookmark     last Thursday at 6:02PM
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