24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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Geody

Well, with the shriveling fruits, I guess my bees just aren't getting to all of them. My plants are too crowded. So that doesn't surprise me. I was just afraid it was something new to worry about.

By losing blossoms, I guess I mean there are many, many blossoms that just bloom and then wilt and die. Also, it seems like I have an inordinate number of male blossoms in comparison to female blossoms. Maybe this is normal. I just love my squash, and I want more of it.

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jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

Excess males typically indicates the plant is stressed.

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zzackey(8b GA)

I think the spots you see are just the normal coloring of the skin.

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ajpd1989

I decided to harvest it today. I think the darker spots were just a result of sun exposure, as there weren't any on the other side.

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madmantrapper(7)

Sorry folks I should have looked down a few threads. Found the answer.

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ltilton

Particularly when one plant wilts and the one next to it is still sound. So far.

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mommomsgarden(6/Jersey Girl!)

No I'm not sure what cucumber beetles are. And I water that plant a lot! I know cukes need a lot of water!

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mommomsgarden(6/Jersey Girl!)

No dogs. But yeah that's peat moss. I'm on my way home to loosen soil a little and add some mulch!

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krissylovesplants79

It could have been eaten by something like a squirl or racoon, try an all natural spray, either store bought or homeade. I fill a windex bottle with warm water, add a tbspn of hot sause, murphys soap and cayanne pepper, plray it on the fruit.

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donnabaskets(Zone 8a, Central MS)

Well, based on my gardening experience for many many years, you're getting a perfectly normal crop. I don't know why the little short chubbies appear. My guess is it has something to do with pollination. But, they do appear regularly, and, as you say, they taste just as good as the pretty ones. I wouldn't worry over much about it.

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gardener_sandy

Incomplete pollination of the female flowers will cause the oddly shaped cucumbers. A cucumber flower needs to be visited multiple times by pollinators in order to produce nicely shaped fruits.

Sandy

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bsmith717(6)

link just took me to youtube, not the specific video.

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jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

Avoiding overhead watering is a key to limiting leaf diseases.

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arwen2

Since I allow my indeterminate tomatoes to sprawl, (my bad) I don't mind a bit of pruning by the dreaded tomato worms. However, I do keep a pair of scissors in the garden just to snip those suckers in half when I find them

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tishtoshnm Zone 6/NM

My favorite way to deal with them is to pick them off and feed them to the chickens. I figure they are improving the omega-3 content of the eggs. This year I stopped counting after removing 6 dozen but I am sure there are still more out there. No way that I would let that many be. If things are quiet enough, you may be able to hear them munching.

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donnabaskets(Zone 8a, Central MS)

You know, if you spend a fun day and just glean one tip, like watering the birds, it was an incredibly valuable day. Thanks for sharing!

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melikeeatplants

Sounds like a trade off, birds eat all my berries and peck at my stonefruit. Don't know if I'd want to attract more birds than I already get!

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ediej1209(5 N Central OH)

Donna, we are in a different climate with different growing conditions than you, but I thought I'd throw this out for your consideration... we don't plant paste-type tomatoes but we do plant oxheart types - most notably German Red Strawberry and one just simply called Yellow Oxheart. These cook up beautifully; they are much larger tomatoes so it doesn't take as many to make a kettle full, great taste and very "meaty", not to mention prolific. You might try a plant next year to see how well it does in your climate.

Edie

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donnabaskets(Zone 8a, Central MS)

Thank you all. I have done some occasional stalking over on the Harvest forum, and you bet those folks know their stuff. Maybe I worded my search wrong, but couldn't seem to find the info I was looking for. (maybe because most people have enough sense to figure it out for themselves...)

Thank you, Dave, for your words about Victorio. I bought it last year for dealing with blueberries, but it was an incredible help with my tomato harvest this year. It absolutely does leave the pulp. Last year (when I grew sauce tomatoes), I had lots and lots of sauce after I ran it through a wire strainer. I just didn't have enough sense to know what to do with it. This year, I did strain the first couple batches of tomatoes I ran through it, and the small amount of pulp that was in those beefsteaks made lovely sauce. Just not enough of it. What I especially liked was how quickly the pulp cooked down into sauce once it was strained out.

After using this amazing gadget this year, I don't think there's much of anything that anyone could say to make me fall out of love with it. It's a huge labor and time saver!

As a note, I discovered by accident, that if I filled the hopper with tomato pieces before I cranked them through and then emptied the bowl right into a hot pan, I had minimal separation of pulp and water in the jars.

Re: Determinate Sauce tomato. I grow my vegetables organically, and honestly don't even like to spray organic concoctions. Add to that the fact that the entire county here seems to have Early Blight in the soil, plus the fact that our incredibly hot mid summer heat puts a stop to tomato production anyway, and I have decided that it really doesn't matter whether I grow determinates or indeterminates. I am still only going to get the first crop. I will try Opalka as an experiment. Sounds intriguing. But I am very grateful for the extra mention of Italia. All three recs are on my list to try.

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Geody

Well that explains it for me. Last year I had what was shaped like a spaghetti squash but had a pattern on the outside resembling a hubbard. i as both and some other varieties in the same squash patch. Thought i'd gotten a random mystery seed or simething. Didn't know I could get a mix from cross pollination. Tasted pretty good as I recall :)

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Only the seeds are affected by cross-pollination, not the fruit in this season. You only see weird fruit if you save seeds that have crossed and plant them the following year.

So if you had a weirdo then it was from a random crossed seed.

Dave

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farmerdill

Two per plant is good even if your plants are crowded. The good news is that Crimson Sweet sizes down nicely. Your melons will likely be small due to crowding, but Crimson Sweet is usually good even when only icebox size.

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ltilton

With new potatoes, simplest is best. You want to let the taste of the potato come through.

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sweetquietplace(6 WNC Mtn.)

Any Swede will tell you to sprinkle your new potatoes with dill...butter and salt are a given.

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woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

Doesn't mean the habs are still not susceptible. I grow a lot of varieties and one thing I have noticed --- the smaller and less fleshy the pepper, the less chance of BER.

Does Mel's mix have any added calcium in it or instructions to add lime or gypsum or bone meal...something to supply calciium to the plants?

Try to find some water soluble calcium(maybe at a hydroponics store) and the season may still be salvageable. Next time, make sure you get some bone meal or gypsum in the mix well before planting.

You may also want to google "smokemaster witch's brew" He makes soluble calcium acetate out of dolomite lime and vinegar.

Good luck.

Kevin

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pnbrown

the problem is trying to fruit sweet peppers in florida in the middle of summer.

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