23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

Thanks for all your input folks. I took 10 of the largest tomatoes outside, repotted them, and rolled them into the garage at night. There were 4 Rosso Sicilian plants that were just monsters (I've never grown them before, quite impressed).
I'll probably take out a few more each night (there's about 20 more still inside), when they've clearly outgrown thier temprary housing.
Thanks again.

Over hardening is ambiguous to me. Sounds like Over Cooking. But if it implies doing it for a long while, it should then be good thing.
Hardening Up is nothing but making your plants to get used to their new habitat: i.e. temperature, sun and wind, gradually. At some point when the danger of cold and frost is over then you just plant them in their new home.




Here you go. More than anyone probably wants to know about SVB and the various controls.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: SVB Control discussions

Sometimes I get stuff like that as I get towards planting time, when I get overwhelmed with all the gardening projects and I water them too much, too little, or fertilize too much, or to little. I am not really sure what is what, I just know it is typical for me to have a flat or two of my tomatoes/peppers with weirdness on the leaves.
It always fixes itself once they are hardened off and planted int he warm ground.

Thanks for the photo assist, Dave.
They are planted in promix, and I have not fertilized. But I just realized I used the promix vegetable and herb blend! That could explain why my eggplant seedlings looked bad as well (which I thought was a light issue)!
Yes, they are cowpots, which I thought was a huge mistake, but the small pots held up so well I used the larger ones when I potted up. I plan on removing them when I plant in my garden.
thanks for the input, everyone! So it does not look like disease to you? I had such an abysmal year for tomatoes last year (pin worms, fun) that I am a bit paranoid now. Realizing my dumb potting mix could be the issue--we'll see soon. It is finally warming up here so I can plant outside.


Does anyone know if tinfoil or aluminum foil works to repel slugs and snails? I am trying out this method (details in the link) where you use pieces of tp rolls and wrap them in tinfoil then place it around the base of your plants. (not my idea or blog, someone else's)
Here is a link that might be useful: Slug collars


I got everything planted except for squash. I'll get that in a few days. It's been mostly sprinkles and good old fashioned pitter patter rain so far. The good side is that it seems to be warmer. The over cast skies made for stress free transplanting too.
As far as strawbales go....i wouldn't mind growing potatoes in them; but i'm a dirty girl. I want to dig and feel the dirt between my toes!
Ya'll have a great soggy day!
Thanks again for all the feedback!


It depends on where you live. You don't list your zone on your profile, and we'd need to know that before we can tell you.
It also depends on how well the seedlings are doing, and whether you've hardened them off. Do a search for "hardening off" on this forum or on google to learn how to do that.

Never grown it so I wouldn't know. But, one thing I found interesting about fennel while researching companion planting for veggies -- almost nothing is good as a companion.
Kevin
Here is a link that might be useful: according to wikipedia

I grow bulb fennel twice a year, in spring and fall. It's a reasonably heavy feeder, but the plants take a while to gain size -- longer than the seed packets say. Any good garden soil of average fertility is fine. I mix a standard application of organic fertilizer into the soil before planting, and drench with a high N liquid when the plants start to bulb. The spring crop matures in late June, the fall crop (started indoors in July) is ready in October.

Jonfrum:
I disagree 100%, carrot do sweeten in the winter. We have been growing winter carrots for the last 4 years and I look forward to them every year. More so than the first tomato!
We like Napoli. We have grown Nelson, Mokum and Yaya during the winter too. They just aren't quite as hardy as Napoli We plant them at the end of July to the First week of August. We Harvest them from mid October- March. We still have some growing now and while they aren't as good as the earlier ones, they taste better than the ones in the store. Our spring carrots will be ready in a few weeks. They were planted in January.
We grow ours in movable high tunnels. We plant the crop outside, then after the frost takes the tomatoes, mid November, we move the high tunnel over the carrots and it stays there until spring. We grow over 1000 square feet of carrots for winter sales. I will probably up this by 250-300 more square feet as we almost ran out this year. Each building has 5, 30 inch beds in it. Each bed has 4 rows planted in it. It is a whole lot of carrots.



Don't just take my word for it, google Eliot Coleman and Candy Carrots.
Jay

I pull all of my carrots in late fall because voles and other critters will damage them if left in the soil. I often miss a few and have noticed that the red-skinned carrots seem to survive winter in style. A few weeks ago I dug out some Dragons that were still edible.
Parsnips that sit through winter are really good.


I don't water daily after I put in ground. I create a pretty large whole with my hands, mix in some compost or bagged garden soil along with a couple handfuls of balanced organic ferts(cottonseed, bone, and alfalfa meals), plant seedlings, and give a good soak. I usually don't water again for another week or so. This is in conjunction to my tilling of copious amounts of compost a month or 2 beforehand and a broadcast of bonemeal(since bonemeal takes so long to break down).
Kevin


Well, I googled damping off of peppers, and it doesn't sound good.
Trying to decide whether to segregate those with wilts from those that don't, throw the ones with wilted leaves away, or try to dry them all out in the bathroom with the space heater and hope for the best.
It was a lot of work getting them to this point...I'm pretty bummed out...
I can't figure out where it came from. I used new cell packs, brand new seed starter mix, etc. All was fine until they got wet and the weather turned cool. :(




Yep, sunscald. They will outgrow it and you have a lot of rain coming that will ease their transition. My tuscan kale got pretty sunburned burned this year, and now it's beautiful.
Figured it was sunscald, But to answer your question, I'm not sure if they were hardened off, as these were transplants from the local garden ctr, and where they were was shaded. Any chance of recovery??
This post was edited by bomber095 on Thu, May 9, 13 at 19:00