23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening


Depends on whether you prefer white, yellow, or bicolor. I grow 421 W which is superb. Nice large ears and excellent flavor. It is a synergistic and has better corn flavor than a supersweet. 148Y is one of their older varieties and is a supersweet ( needs to be isolated from regular corn). I have not grown it. nor am I familiar with 301 BC It also needs to be isolated from Su and se types and is about 5 days later maturity. I am more familiar with the synergistic 336 BC which has the same big ears and early maturity of 421 W.



I'm in Alpine TX at 30N latitude. We just went from 94F to 24F in 36 hours. Three hails in the last month and only 0.5 inch rain total in the last three months.
I pollinated a watermelon flower under my unheated but well insulated shelter 2 hours after it was 24F.
Try doing that in New England, doesn't happen.


-edit- Deleted...I don't wanna get into it.
Long story short, I agree with the point about keeping it out of the sun and I'd add a suggestion to watch out for garden/home improvement/etc places that store it out in full sun on pallets.
This post was edited by nc-crn on Sat, May 4, 13 at 23:12



LoLauren Yes I plant each one individually so I can fill in and even space areas in the garden. I wait until they are maybe 2-3 inches tall. They aren't very picky and take right off. It is true that the transplanting affects the tap root, but that only matters at the county fair. They won't fork and do crazy things like transplanted carrots.

Yes many folks will start beets in a hot bed - well spaced so easy to transplant - or even in peat pellets, cell packs, etc. and transplanting them works fine. Often done it myself.
Unfortunately that isn't the situation in this case or in most cases where transplanting beets is discussed sine 95% of the time they are direct seeded in the garden.
Direct seeding in the garden or in a container, then thinning and trying to transplant the pulled up thinnings is a totally different situation and gives poor results. If the OP waits until these in this pot are 2-3" tall before thinning the over-crowding will have already triggered heavy top growth with little to no root development.
As with the peas in the other post, planting in rows in a garden is normal. Doing it in a round container doesn't give the best results and wastes much of the growing space.
Dave



For future reference, when using round containers row planting isn't the best use of the available space.
Planting in round circles follow the contours of the container and using the standard 2" spacing when planting allows for more plants in the same amount of space.
Dave


If it's been in place for a year it will have a big taproot and transplanting will just hasten bolting. Eat whatever you can now and sow afresh. You could leave it to bolt and it might self sow. Mine does but my climate is very different, I imagine.


Yes, potatoes are relatives of tomatoes and peppers, any freeze will kill them.
Unlike tomatoes and peppers, a potato can completely regrow from a single root tuber, whereas the other two will simply die if the tops freeze. Potatoes will have a top die-off in cold weather, but as long as the tuber doesn't freeze, it will regenerate.
Don't be too worried about it growing a little bit. It should reach an inch or two and stop as long as its being kept in the cool and the dark.
But I agree, it would be much easier to simply use ones from your first harvest to kick off your second.


It should work as long as you can monitor the soil temperatures and adjust accordingly.
Dave