23,822 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

If it hasn't been more than a few days since transplant, you should pull the peppers and use containers -- 5 gal minimum. You'll get a nice harvest with minimum investment.

Regarding the one that came as three -- take it and put in a bucket of water. Swish it up and down, knocking loose as much soil as possible. Take a spray nozzle on water hose and spray off even more soil -- gently. Then, when almost all soil is removed and all you got is the 3 plants and a wad of roots, GENTLY tug them apart slowly. You can then take each one and plant individually.

If you don't feel comfortable doing this, then just follow brittany's idea.

Ideally, 3 feet is acceptable spacing for tomatoes -- unless they're determinate. maybe 2 feet min if they are. So, leave the above plot just for maters.

Kevin

    Bookmark     May 24, 2013 at 2:03AM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

I would do what woohooman described to SOME extent. Just to put in water and shake a bit until the roots are untangled. I would NOT wash it with hose or anything else. washing it , to me, does not serve a purpose.

Also, depending on how close they are , you might be able to break them off without needing to soak. The Least disturbance possible the better it is. You may also use a sharp knife to cut to separate them, if they are not too close.
On the other hand, if you just need 3 plants, just cut 2 off and leave one. DO NOT pull them up. It can disturb the one you want to keep.

    Bookmark     May 24, 2013 at 4:23AM
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donnabaskets(Zone 8a, Central MS)

I grew tatume last year. It was a huge vine, giving good competition to pumpkins and other winter squash for size. I cannot begin to imagine a trellis that would be large enough to support even one vine. Squash vine borers left it alone, which was a big plus. But to me, it had even less flavor than zucchini, to which I think it most closely compares in taste. This year, I am growing a bush yellow crookneck under floating row cover in one of my raised beds and will pollinate by hand to avoid Squash vine Borers.

    Bookmark     May 22, 2013 at 5:24PM
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brittanyw(8a)

Thanks for the suggestion, TxTwiggy. I decided to try out a cattle panel trellis since they seem so heavy-duty. And donna, I was lured by the zucchini comparisons, but I don't think I'll be too disappointed if they're not quite as good. It has two things going for it that most summer squash don't: SVB resistance, and (at least supposedly) good production in summer heat. And it gets hot around here.

    Bookmark     May 24, 2013 at 2:24AM
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illori

I'm not seeing any damage, I'm just very curious about what is going on. We do have tons of raccoons, do you suppose they'd remove the 2x4s holding the bird net down, mess about, then put thr 2x4 back just to mess with me? It's a funny thought to be sure, they are crazy critters, last year my brother woke up to find one in his car, sitting in the driver's seat with it's paws on the wheel. It was hilarious though it was probably just trying to climb up to the leftovers on the dash.

    Bookmark     May 24, 2013 at 12:47AM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

Wow. This is amazing mystery revealed by Dave...
I never thought that raccoons would do such a crazy things.
Years back, I used to feed them like pets on my backyard porch. Of course , it was just one couple , living in the area, with their new borne .

    Bookmark     May 24, 2013 at 1:14AM
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marcguay(5b, Montreal, QC)

I confirmed that it's Oxalis when I got home yesterday and it has indeed spread it's babies all over the garden.

    Bookmark     May 23, 2013 at 9:44AM
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avocado101(9A Southern California)

How to tell if a plant is a weed:
If you pull it and roots come out with it, then it's not a weed.
If you pull it and only the top portion breaks off and roots stay buried, then it's a weed. :-)

    Bookmark     May 24, 2013 at 12:18AM
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Kohon

Are these 'seeds' hybrid?

    Bookmark     May 23, 2013 at 6:00PM
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kathyb912_in (5a/5b, Central IN)

Seedless watermelons are sterile hybrids and are grown with a pollinator plant so they can produce fruit. In your case, I assume your Black Diamond will pollinate your yellow seedless variety. Good luck with them!

    Bookmark     May 23, 2013 at 10:15PM
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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

That is hail damage. The damage is rips and tears.....critters don't do that. I see hail damage in my yard every year ; some years the plants are left in tatters.

    Bookmark     May 23, 2013 at 6:28PM
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SpiffyTiffy(6)

Thank you!

    Bookmark     May 23, 2013 at 9:08PM
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mckenziek(9CA)

Some fairly urban areas have deer, but the people who live there see them all the time. (Monterrey for example). And gophers are highly adapted to many urban areas. They are a plague in San Francisco. Or parts of it. But usually you will see evidence of their work all throughout the neighborhood. So the mystery continues...

    Bookmark     May 23, 2013 at 8:54PM
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AiliDeSpain(6a - Utah)

I'm in Utah as well (Spanish Fork) and have a problem with earwigs. Last season they ate entire seedlings. I solved the problem by sprinkling garden dust (insecticide) on young seedlings until they were big enough to withstand some damage. This year they are more concentrated in my flower bed feeding on the dahlias new growth. I used garden dust on them yesterday and hope they will recover.

    Bookmark     May 23, 2013 at 9:08PM
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harveyhorses(7 Midlothian Va)

So sorry for your hassle. Raised beds and hardware cloth are working for me. Jack Russels can do more damage than the gophers!
How does an electric fence work for gophers? I have one for the above ground pests.

    Bookmark     May 23, 2013 at 4:54PM
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mckenziek(9CA)

Given that you already have a garden (so you can't use hardware cloth) and don't want to use poison (me neither) I think your best bet is to get Macabee traps or similar from other vendors. Macabee traps are no longer made in USA, so you might as well buy whichever ones you can find readily.

Next year, use hardware cloth.

This year, go fill in all gopher holes and flatten all mounds. Then watch for new activity. As soon as you see new activity (a wilting or missing plant, a hole, or a mound) place a trap. If you find a missing or wilted plant, you can dig in that area and find the gopher tunnel leading away from the plant. It can be tricky to find it. The act of digging may partially cover the hole. Probe the sides of your hole gently with your fingers. When you find the tunnel, place a single trap in that tunnel. Stake the trap so the gopher cannot pull it farther into the tunnel. Do not use any bait. Cover the whole area with a board or something so nobody trips or sets off the trap. If you catch nothing in 48 hours, give up on that location.

In my experience, there is little or no gore. Usually the gopher is dead when I find it. The trap is not supposed to break the skin. Some people like to leave the dead gopher in the hole. They think it deters other gophers. I don't do that.

In general, clean up after the gophers so that you can readily recognize fresh activity. When you see it, don't wait. Set the trap right away. After you do it a few times, and if you keep the supplies handy (gloves, traps, stakes, and a trowel or small shovel) you can set a trap in less than 5 minutes.

You can also probe for main tunnels by randomly digging around active sites or using some kind of stick to probe. If you find a main tunnel, dig it out, and place two traps facing away from each other in the tunnel.

I have a very high success rate trapping gophers with single traps in the tunnels leading away from a plant they have destroyed. These are feeding tunnels, and they come back to see if they can continue to feed, I guess. I have seen so many gopher damaged plants, that I can spot it very quickly, before the whole plant is gone. This may be a critical part of success. Once the plant is totally gone, maybe the gopher won't revisit that hole.

Gophers are solitary except during mating season and child-rearing. Once you catch one, you are usually done at that location. Don't bother resetting the trap in the same location.

Gophers do not hibernate (it is not cold where they live). Gophers stay below ground as much as possible. Trying to eliminate them with BB guns and slingshots and such will not be effective unless you have a team of people watch the garden 24 hours a day.

Gophers DO NOT climb over small obstacles. They will not enter a raised bed if it has boards around the outside that stick up above ground, and the bottom is closed off with 1/2 inch hardware cloth. For me, galvanized hardware cloth lasts many years underground, and comes up with no rust at all. The galvanization is critical to having it hold up. There must be no gap between the hardware cloth and wood. There must be no holes in the wood (I mean, no holes big enough for a gopher to go through).

Gophers may enter a raised bed if there is dense vegetation or a dirt mound forming a ramp to the top of the board. Likewise, they do not climb over wire plant baskets which stick up out of the ground, but may get in if dirt or vegetation forms a ramp. They will happily burrow through compacted roadbed gravel or decomposed granite.

The vast majority of deterrents don't work (according to UC Davis).

Chewing gum does not work. A researcher in UC Davis fed it to captive gophers for many years.

Gophers do not spontaneously go away. If you see no activity, that does not mean they are gone unless you did something. Gophers can tunnel horizontally for a long way. The same gopher may plague both you and your neighbor. Gophers can easily burrow under sidewalks, driveways and streets.

There may be plants that gophers don't like, but I don't know which ones they are. They like all plants that you might have in a vegetable garden including garlic. They like many landscaping plants, and can kill small trees also.

Feel free to repost with or without attribution (and don't worry, I didn't copy it, it is original with me).

    Bookmark     May 23, 2013 at 8:50PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

It all depends on the size of the container. That's the important information. :-)

2 bush bean plants in a 12" 2 gallon container would do ok but 2 bush cucumbers, no.

Dave

    Bookmark     May 23, 2013 at 6:15PM
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saturn1956(6)

Bush Beans are in a 14" x 12" container Bush Cukes are in 16" wide x 18" deep containers

    Bookmark     May 23, 2013 at 6:58PM
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flora_uk(SW UK 8/9)

Red Russian also self sows very effectively. I haven't had to sow any myself for years.

    Bookmark     May 23, 2013 at 1:20PM
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tommyr_gw

I'm growing Red Russian this year. It's milder and plant more than you think because it cooks down to nothing!

    Bookmark     May 23, 2013 at 5:06PM
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n2xjk

Those side shoots are called tillers or suckers. The tendency to form tillers depends on the variety, fertility and light. Its normal and I'd leave them.

    Bookmark     May 22, 2013 at 11:28PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Many of us who grow Silver Queen consider it a good thing. :-) Studies show that removing them reduces production.

Dave

    Bookmark     May 23, 2013 at 12:53PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Sorry but there is no way to see anything about that plant from this photo.

Are you asking about Miracle Grow use for the garden as a whole or for that plant? For that particular plant there is no way to tell from the photo.

Brand/type of fertilizer is always a personal choice and the use of that particular brand is always hotly contested on both sides of the issue. The search here will pull up many discussions about it if interested. Otherwise, use whatever you choose from the hundreds of different brands available.

Dave

    Bookmark     May 22, 2013 at 10:27AM
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xxnonamexx(7a)

I used 10-10-10 mixed into the soil a couple of weeks before planting. I was wondering if I should spray everything with miracle grow or will it hurt? People tell me just water and don't use miracle grow etc. Thanks

    Bookmark     May 23, 2013 at 10:33AM
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wvubeerman

Both, some of the seeds I planted beets, carrots and pots, have all sprouted, but are not growing, it has been in the 70's-80's, just a lot of rain that with the mulch is holding in all the water. That is why I though about using some peroxide solution to air things out, but I have never tried this method.

    Bookmark     May 23, 2013 at 10:16AM
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Garden.Geek(6)

I'm in the very eastern part if Kentucky and an having the exact same problem. My lettuce is the only thing that seems to be doing well under such conditions, and I'm waiting for a dry spell before I sow any if my pepper seeds as I'm pretty sure they would just rot anyway. :/ Hope things dry up a bit for you, too!

    Bookmark     May 23, 2013 at 10:20AM
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mandolls(4)

I'm fond of little Thumbalina Zinnias - they germinate fast and stay small so you can tuck them everywhere and they start blooming really fast too. I find Marigolds to be slug magnets, so I stay away from them. I usually have some sort of flowers in all of my beds, but its more about aesthetics than companion planting. Last year I had Nasturtiums, Blue Lobelia, Impatiens, Borage, Petunias, Violas, Zinnia, Galardia, Morning Glories, and bedding Dahlias mixed in through the veg garden.

    Bookmark     May 23, 2013 at 7:12AM
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Wipa4246(9a)

It was the same for me with sunflowers...trying to pull up tree trunks. So this year, I put the sunflowers outside the fence instead of in the garden itself. Always marigolds, some cosmos and zinnias are my go-to flowers.

    Bookmark     May 23, 2013 at 7:38AM
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mckenziek(9CA)

UC Davis has studied gophers extensively.

Here are two URL's:

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/QT/gopherscard.html
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7433.html

I will put one of them in the "Optional Link URL" box so that you can click on it. But you can also cut and paste the above URL's. If you want to solve the problem, read the info from UC Davis. There are a lot of commonly recommended remedies which just do not work.

Here is a link that might be useful: Gophers--UC IPM

    Bookmark     May 23, 2013 at 12:27AM
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AiliDeSpain(6a - Utah)

I found this blurb in that link that the poster above linked in their message regarding pocket gopher control:
LEGAL STATUS
The California Fish and Game Code classifies pocket gophers as nongame mammals. This means if you are the owner or tenant of the premises and you find pocket gophers that are injuring growing crops or other property, including garden and landscape plants, you can control them at any time and in any legal manner.

    Bookmark     May 23, 2013 at 1:45AM
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