23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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ltilton

Have you been cutting down the dead ferns in the fall? That's the traditional time to do it and attack the weeds at the same time.

    Bookmark   April 25, 2013 at 12:15PM
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rjinga

Yes, our landscaping guy ran over the dead ferns this fall, but not completely to the ground. so now there are dead weeds and new weeds growing amongst them. I'm going to try to water it really well and attempt to pull the weeds out.

    Bookmark   April 25, 2013 at 12:27PM
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mandolls(4)

Thats not a patch - thats a field!

    Bookmark   April 25, 2013 at 7:24AM
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veggiecanner(Id 5/6)

Yes you will, it might not be huge and it might not be divided. But you can use it or divide it and replant it in the fall for next year.

    Bookmark   April 25, 2013 at 12:05PM
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edweather(Zone 5a/b Central NY)

Very nice! Kind of looks a like tomato plant prison :-)

    Bookmark   April 25, 2013 at 12:35AM
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weirdtrev

I don't think that will do much of anything, they will just grow through that unless you make an effort to keep them separate. The only way to ensure they won't grow together is to space them further apart than you did last year.

    Bookmark   April 25, 2013 at 8:40AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Yep what Jon said. I tend to forget that "wet" doesn't mean the same thing to everyone.

And if you are going to be adding anything to it now is the time to do it rather than after planting.

Dave

    Bookmark   April 24, 2013 at 4:48PM
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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

Yes, grad.....you'll need to water it and then stir it. It doesn't need to be saturated, but the moisture needs to be distributed well. You don't need to be afraid of getting it moist....it's not my favorite medium but it coarse enough maintain structure when moist.

    Bookmark   April 24, 2013 at 9:57PM
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edweather(Zone 5a/b Central NY)

Yes, go ahead and plant them. No problem. If they are already growing without soil, just think what they'll do when you plant them!

    Bookmark   April 24, 2013 at 6:27PM
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weirdtrev

Those dates are recommendations. A week doesn't matter at all, go ahead and plant. There are very few things in gardening that aren't flexible.

    Bookmark   April 24, 2013 at 3:43PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Agree that those dates are just recommendations. They mean do not plant before but anytime after is fine.

Please include your location or at least your gardening zone in any posts or replies. Your location makes a BIG difference in the information we supply to you.

For example, in much of the country this year normal last frost dates aren't valid as frosts are coming as much as 2-3 weeks late. So be sure to check your long term weather forecast before planting.

For future reference, it is your soil temp that best determines when seeds should be planted, not some artificial dates on a calendar. So learn to measure and monitor your soil temps.

Dave

    Bookmark   April 24, 2013 at 4:22PM
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flora_uk(SW UK 8/9)

I think flat collars would be easier to fit than cups. You can buy them ready made or make your own. Google cabbage root fly collars.

Here is a link that might be useful: Root fly collars

    Bookmark   April 24, 2013 at 4:03PM
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veggiecanner(Id 5/6)

I think they used to tar paper
A sprinkle of wood ases might work also

    Bookmark   April 24, 2013 at 4:09PM
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ChicagoDeli37

After having the plastic on overnight , its 11:00 am i just took the plastic off, the soil in these seems to be colder the ones not covered.

    Bookmark   April 24, 2013 at 12:12PM
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AiliDeSpain(6a - Utah)

I wouldn't go through all that trouble. Besides keeping the soul moist, the seeds will germinate when conditions are right for them to do so.

    Bookmark   April 24, 2013 at 3:41PM
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pnbrown

Yes, quite possible they were eaten.

    Bookmark   April 24, 2013 at 11:18AM
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flora_uk(SW UK 8/9)

Jerusalem artichokes are quite late to show here. Mine are not yet up. BTW 'germinated' applies to seed, tubers just 'come up' or 'sprout' ;-)

If the old stems are visible you could dig carefully down a bit next to one and see if there is any sign of growth.

    Bookmark   April 24, 2013 at 12:29PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Here are some pictures of carrot seedlings at various stages that might help. You may just have to wait a bit until they develop a bit more to tell for sure.

Here are chive seedlings.

Hope this helps.

Dave

    Bookmark   April 24, 2013 at 10:37AM
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flora_uk(SW UK 8/9)

We had a very cold spring over here and things have only just started growing. Hence the weed explosion. Nothing has yet germinated on my allotment and I didn't even bother to sow anything until last week.

Assuming you marked each end of your rows with sticks or markers of some kind, you could just remove any plants growing either side of, say an 8 inch strip along the row and leave the rest. Then your rows would be defined and once any seedlings start to appear you can begin to id them.

Germination is generally slow still due to the chilly start so you need to wait at least 2 weeks before expecting to see anything, maybe even longer.

Lastly, allotmenteers are usually friendly people, so ask for help from your neighbours.

    Bookmark   April 24, 2013 at 12:25PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Zucchini is not a plant that lends itself to container growing anyway. The stems and leaf shanks will always break as it drapes over the container edges simply from the weight of the leaves not to mention the fruit..

It works best in ground where it has support for the stems as it spreads. This one is beyond salvage I fear. You have plenty of time to direct seed in the ground.

Dave

    Bookmark   April 23, 2013 at 4:32PM
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flora_uk(SW UK 8/9)

There is no harm in planting it in the ground, quite deeply, just to see if it will take off eventually. But best to start some more at the same time.

    Bookmark   April 24, 2013 at 12:15PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Just so you know there is a Soil & Compost forum here for questions such as this.

What is enough? Recommended minimum is enough so that at least20- 25% of the soil in the bed is compost. More is better. Goal is 50% compost.

For most people "enough" means as much as you have or can afford to buy.

Old or new? Old means the composting process is finished and called "finished compost". So that is the best for mixing in with the soil. "New" means it is still decomposing, still using up nitrogen, and it isn't "compost" yet. It can be used as mulch on top but should not be mixed in with the soil as it can bind up nitrogen needed by the plants. Or it can be left in the pile to finish decomposing.

Dave

    Bookmark   April 24, 2013 at 10:30AM
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Yessabub(5A)

Ok so I guess I've been using the right stuff then, its brown in color

    Bookmark   April 24, 2013 at 11:12AM
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pnbrown

That's pretty cool, Bart!

I have a similar fall/winter climate to yours so maybe I will try your method. Planting that late might avoid destruction by the CPB, we'll see...

    Bookmark   April 24, 2013 at 7:13AM
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bart1(6/7 Northern VA)

Yukkrui -
What I did was to store my leftover seed potatoes from the spring planting in the 'fridge. This kept the growth of the eyes slow enough that when I planted them in July and August they were "normal" I.E. the eyes hadn't formed 6 inch long stems!

    Bookmark   April 24, 2013 at 8:27AM
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AiliDeSpain(6a - Utah)

Ok thanks, I have noticed that some plants are more temperamental than others. My cilantro and green sweet basil was very sensitive to the sun for hardening more so than my others that I have already hardened off. I just started hardening my ornamental peppers and red basil. I put them out for about two hours yesterday and four hours today in direct sun, they look like they are handling it well but it is a cool day today around 50 degrees. I just put them in the shade though to be safe.

    Bookmark   April 23, 2013 at 2:57PM
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tammyinwv(z6/WV)

I have just been putting my plants out as weather permits. Leaving them in full sun all day, but the weather has been cool so far with highs in the 70's. I just watch them and see how they do. Yesterday there was a few looking a little stressed so I moved them to the shade for the night. I will have to bring them back in this evening tho as we are expecting 30 degree temps again tonight.
Tammy

    Bookmark   April 24, 2013 at 7:39AM
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ceth_k(11)

Of course you can. The thing about okra is that they don't do very well with transplanting. It is a good idea to first decide and prepare their planting spot before you plant them.

    Bookmark   April 24, 2013 at 12:43AM
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mesquiteman(8 Central TX)

Thank you ceth_k. Are there any special things I should do other than just dig the hole and drop them in? My beds are already prepared and ready to plant, I just let them sit in the water long enough to begin to sprout!

    Bookmark   April 24, 2013 at 12:56AM
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