23,822 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
AiliDeSpain(6a - Utah)

Fabulous. My spinach is almost big enough to start harvesting some leaves. Can't wait!

    Bookmark     May 15, 2013 at 10:38AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
runswithscissors(MT 4/5)

Is it possible that it's nitrogen-burn from too much fertilizer? Or was the pepper allowed to dry completely out at some point?

    Bookmark     May 15, 2013 at 9:38AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

Probably didn't harden it off long enough before setting it out. Just wind and sun burn. It will probably grow out of it, unless something else comes along to challenge it, like too much water or something.

    Bookmark     May 15, 2013 at 10:27AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

There are many good "hole prep" discussions over on the Tomato forum.

When doing hole prep rather than whole bed prep (the best method) then you have to start with a much bigger hole for each plant. 3x wider and at least 2x deeper than normal and you mix the 3T of fertilizer in well throughout the entire hole area as the instructions indicate. Then put in the plant.

You do NOT want all the fertilizer concentrated in one area. You want it where the roots will find it as they grow and expand.

Peppers and herbs have very different nutrient requirements from tomatoes. So with that particular fertilizer - Eggplant yes, peppers use only 1/2 as much, herbs none.

Dave

    Bookmark     May 15, 2013 at 9:46AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
njitgrad

Thank you, I will follow your advice about spreading out the fertilizer and the amounts for the eggplant and peppers.

For next season, how soon in advance do you recommend I add the fertilizer and mix into the soil?

My raised beds for tomatoes are only 2x4, or 8 sq ft, so I would use about 1/6th of the 9 cups for 50 sq ft. Basically 1.5 cups per bed, sprinked uniformly on top and then worked in with a hoe or hand raked in to a depth of about 4 inches. Does that sound about right?

For the containers I'm assuming it should be mixed in a wheelbarrow prior to filling the containers. 30 parts of gowing mix to 1 part of fertilizer.

    Bookmark     May 15, 2013 at 9:59AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ltilton

If there are clear tracks, they should be easy to identify.

    Bookmark     May 15, 2013 at 9:48AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
farmerdill

Georgia Jet gets a lot of recomendatons for northern gardeners. never grown it. have grown Beauregard and Covington. Covington may be slightly more flavorful, but there is very little difference in growtg habits and production. Both have rampant vines which bloom a lot. Very Pretty.
Covington

    Bookmark     May 14, 2013 at 3:11PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
planatus(6)

In my experience Ga Jet will always produce a crop, but many will be huge "lunkers". Beauregard is a better potato, and I've seed very impressive numbers on the yield of Covington though I haven't grown it myself yet. I like the way Beauregard runs about 6 feet and smothers weeds.

    Bookmark     May 15, 2013 at 7:53AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
sweetquietplace(6 WNC Mtn.)

A couple of years ago I tossed a mango seed on my compost heap. Everyday I would put kitchen scraps, grass clippings, etc. (typical compost heap) on top. Then I went on vacation. When I got back I had an 18-inch mango sprout coming up. Therefore, I would cover the seed.

    Bookmark     May 15, 2013 at 6:03AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
zzackey(8b GA)

They look happy except in the first picture. I think clear plastic containers will hurt the roots. I don't think the roots should be exposed to sunlight. Maybe you can cover the pots with aluminum foil to prevent them from sun exposure?

    Bookmark     May 15, 2013 at 2:52AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Phildeez(9b)

I prune suckers and trellis my cucumbers up twine tied with slip knots to an overhead support. Used wire this year but I think bamboo is better because its more rigid. I shorten the twine periodically to keep them growing vertically. This method allows for close planting, 12" proves plenty and they help support each other laterally. I planted the Burpless starters last year and they produced massive 18" fruit with very little bitterness. Definitely planted a few this year.

    Bookmark     May 14, 2013 at 9:07PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

Good luck. It is a head start for zone 6b/7a I think. Hope you don't get cold snaps. Mines (in z8, WA) have just cotyldone leaves. But if temps go higher they will catch up n no time.

    Bookmark     May 14, 2013 at 11:53PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
wolverine1012

As anxious as we are to taste the fruits of our labor, with perennials like asparagus, being patient pays off in the long run.

Those look a little small and have mostly gone to fern, which is a good thing. Let them grow and next year, you should be in good shape.

    Bookmark     May 14, 2013 at 10:22PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
soilent_green

This photo isn't meant to brag, but to show a comparison between two Minnesota growing experiences. The spears were my first harvest, on May 08, from an old established bed. I like to harvest short because I like them better that way, the spears by the tape measure are more like what a person finds in the grocery store, only much better tasting. (Notice spear diameters and compare to yours.)

You have nice healthy young plants that still need to grow and establish themselves. As wolverine said, your patience will reward you greatly. The only possible negative I see is that once you start harvesting and eating them you will wish you had planted more. :)

Good Luck!

    Bookmark     May 14, 2013 at 11:44PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ChicagoDeli37

Picture

    Bookmark     May 14, 2013 at 9:21PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
naturegirl_2007 5B SW Michigan(5B SW Michigan)

Yes, it will flower and produce seed. You can bag the drying flowers if you prefer to collect the seed and then plant it where you want instead of letting it fall wherever.

    Bookmark     May 14, 2013 at 9:41PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Trying to grow in a pot and using only organics and growing in a raised bed using only organics are 2 entirely different things and have been discussed here in great depth many times..

Assuming your raised beds contain some soil as they should then they at least have the beginning of a soil micro-herd that will let compost and organic fertilizers work to supply nutrients. How well they will work all depends on how well develop the soil bacterial herd is.

In a container, which presumably contains soil-less potting mix as it is supposed to and if it doesn't then you have a whole other set of problems - there is no micro-herd, no soil bacteria to convert compost and other powder/granular organics to nutrients. Liquid organics will work.

Further you don't move/transplant/or disturb root crops once planted. So in a round container you do not seed in rows. In fact in most any container you do not seed in rows. it just wastes space and encourages you to over-seed. You plant seeds using proper spacing to begin with in a circular fashion using the entire surface of the pot. Then you thin, not transplant, as needed.

Compost is normally mixed in with the soil in a garden bed, not layered on top. Compost's best use in a pot is as a mulch only AFTER the plants are well established.

You have time to start over and do it right this time with most all these containers you have been posting about. meanwhile if you only want to use organic fertilizers in both places - pots and beds - buy one of the many good organic liquid fertilizers available and use it, following label directions, to feed all your plants.

IMO you have bitten off way more than you will be able to chew much less swallow this year and it is going to create constant problems for you. Which is why I and others have encouraged you to slow down and learn before the fact, not after. But what's done is done so accept that this year is going to be a struggling learning curve for you and plan accordingly.

Dave

    Bookmark     May 14, 2013 at 2:19PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ChicagoDeli37

Thanks for all the criticism and advice. I'm trying to grow as much possible so that I can use as much as possible for the restaurant.

I'm going to dump all the containers and add in a potting mix.
Any recommendations?

Now the main focus is getting the soil correct and learning the correct way to water and care for vegetables.

I'd like to buy a liquid organic fertilizer any recommendations ?

Thanks again
Mario

    Bookmark     May 14, 2013 at 9:07PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Edymnion(7a)

Yeah, bottom line is that you probably couldn't cross pollinate a tomato if you *TRIED*, short of hand pollination.

    Bookmark     May 14, 2013 at 4:09PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
spiced_ham(z5 OH)

In my garden cross pollination rate is anywhere from 0% to 20% or more of the seed in any fruit (average was 12% I think). Halactid sweatbees do the pollinating and crossing.

But that still means you will most likely get what you want from saving seeds, with the rare surprise.

    Bookmark     May 14, 2013 at 5:22PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

This spring, as wet as it has been in many parts of the country, wireworms will be a severe problem for many of us.

Beneficial Nems are the most frequently recommended organic control and they will work if they are applied in sufficient numbers. But they do take time to mature, reproduce, and have an effect. Meanwhile DE, potato traps (the more the better), soil tilling/turning are about the only other organic controls I know of. Pyrethrin soil drenches can be used as a last ditch effort for severe infestations but it bring you real close to crossing the "organic" line. :)

Chem controls - Ortho Bug-B-Gone.

Dave

    Bookmark     May 14, 2013 at 11:06AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
raistlyn

Thanks! Looks like i may have to go the potato trap way then...

    Bookmark     May 14, 2013 at 5:06PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
vgkg(Z-7)

Silverkelt, plant roses, grapes, and hazelnut trees and the JB's will ignore your corn....works for me (ugh)

    Bookmark     May 10, 2013 at 8:50AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
nickrosesn

How long does it take for the silk to become sticky? Its been 7 days since the silk has emerged and it does not seem sticky. Should I still try and hand pollinate?

    Bookmark     May 14, 2013 at 3:41PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Make a low hill/mound in the center of the bed and put 3-4 plants spaced around on the top of the hill, and then let the 3-4 vines run as they will. You'll get better pollination that way. Keep the bed well fed and WELL watered.

Dave

    Bookmark     May 13, 2013 at 10:36PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
mindeelai

Thanks so much! Also, how long is the harvest period? And what type of cantaloupe is most similar to this one? So that I can look up a similar kind if I have any questions.

This post was edited by LoveBird258 on Tue, May 14, 13 at 16:37

    Bookmark     May 14, 2013 at 3:06PM
Sign Up to comment
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™