23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

Some plants become stunted as a result of exposure to cold temps early in life. It "might" recover but it is still early enough in the season to just replace it.

Dave

Thanks, I will throw this one out and plant another just in case. :) At least she'll have the other one until this one catches up.

I'm guessing first-hand Foster's has to do with first growing certain types of grains, no? ;)

Fosters lager. 2nd hand because it has already been used once. Excellent on the compost heap too. (In fact my opinion of Fosters is that it's only sensible use is on the compost heap or garden.)

Picked these today and I there are a few more still coming.

This year I had seeds for the Suyo Long which were left over from last year and I never even got around to starting. So I am trying Suyo Long for my Asian cucumber selection this year. In fact I already seeded it and some seeds are sprouting already.

Yeah, these were bulbs I'd ordered and DH had said that he would fix a bed for them last fall... never happened so in desperation I plopped them into my raised garden just before the snow started falling. My thought was that as the peppers grew the foliage on the tulips would die down and they could live in some kind of peace together but someone mentioned to me that they heard that tulip bulbs were poisonous and that it would affect anything planted with them. That's why I was wondering... thanks for the info - I will go ahead and let the tulips die down a little and then plant the peppers. Probably better to wait and let the soil warm up a bit more anyway... it's supposed to cool down again this coming weekend. Based on what donnabaskets said about spacing, the peppers and tomatoes would be too crowded if I tried to interplant them (tomatoes are already in the ground.)
Thanks again!
Edie

Tulip bulbs are poisonous when eaten, so you'd want to keep them away from pets or small children who might put them in their mouths. But that's very different from poisoning nearby plants.

Now if you wanted to plant those peppers near a Black Walnut tree, you'd have a problem. :)

"I think I've been reading WAY too many books and articles. :) "

I do that too, but I don't act on everything I read. It's more of a pleasant way to spend time in the recliner. In the garden my approach is "if it ain't broke don't fix it".

Jim

Thanks to everyone for your feedback. I'm going to back off a bit and just let them be for a while. :) This is my third year at it, but the first time I've tried raised beds rather than containers, which I live so much more! :D Also, I live in a small town and only have a Lowes and a Walmart to choose from for gardening supplies, which definitely limits me, especially in the organic category. I think I'm going to turn my attention more towards my compost bin for my main source of fertilizer. Thanks! :)

I'm not familiar with the particular brand of organic fert. but organic ferts are usually slow-release and your plant may not be getting nutrients fast enough to keep up with growth. I'd give it a shot of soluble fertilizer.

Over watering, IMO, is a problem in pot gardening. The reason being that there is more frequent watering, sometimes twice in a day. Combine this with excess watering. Then practically any time you water, it is like rinsing the root system(with some exageration).

another reason that plant may not get enough nutrient is root bound situation, i.e. too much root chasing too little nutrients.
But over watering can also happen in the garden too, especially when the soil is too sandy . Here too, nutrients are leached.

In both cases, knowing HOW MUCH to water can help. For example where a pot just needs a glass of water, you give it a quart of water and you can see right away that most of it is drained out.

The purpose of water for plants is not like what it is to us. Plants need just right amount and just enough to provide dampness. Or at least mosr of garden veggie are like that.

Agree, wet it well and then tear all of it off.

Dave

Thanks ... I will take them off.

Here is what I take on this issue. When I direct sow seeds in the garden, the soil is more likey balanced. Which means it has all the nutients to some extent. So then presence of some nutrienst in starter soil should be fine. Then the plants will decide when and how much they need to take. The only exception to this, in my mind, is excesive amount of N.

But I could be wrong there . Maybe that is why you can get better results by planting in a controlled medium. As Dave pointed out, more than anything else, you want strong roots first . That is why you feed mostly P & K early on.

I plant eggplants in nutrient-containing potting mix 8 weeks before planting out and I always fertilize with N, P, K and Mg at the 5 week stage, otherwise they begin showing deficiency symptoms especially those of N and Mg.
Before seeding, I also soak the mix with a very dilute micronutrient solution containing B, otherwise my seedlings show B deficiencies by the 2nd week.
Personally, if I was using potting mix with no added fert, I would not wait until the 4th week to fertilize.

Thanks this stuff works well.

Hope

Thanks Dave! i sort of figured that since I've never heard of anyone doing it, but they look so full of life that I was hoping for a different answer.
And your sweet potato reference was right on! I didn't think about until you said it, but I knew they reminded me of something I couldn't place.

Thanks again.

You can cut a small piece of the potato off along with the sprout and plant it. I've used peelings before with eyes and planted them with no problems. That way you still get to eat the potato as well as have some to plant.

Most are climbing but there are at least two bush varieties. They are grown for the pods. different flavor and texture than snap beans. Very good in stir frys and chinese dishes tho.

If you like "black eye peas"/southern/crowder pea type flavors then yard longs are good.

They're not the same as the "meaty/thick" green/snap beans in texture or flavor.

That said, much like okra, they don't care how hot it gets...they're going to produce.

In very hot summer climates they're a wonderful vegetable that produces when every thing else suffers or slows.

Just nail/screw it to the bottom 2 inches & let four inches hang down. (Hence, the trough). Then fill the trough back in with dirt. Take care!

Here is a link that might be useful: Flashing

i'd suggest let the onions grow and when you pick them top up the whole bed but at that end use some timber or other to place along that area down into the base soil, then pack new dirt in behind it, me if i had some say 50mm sized stones around i'd just put them there and fill soil over the top.

len

Here is a link that might be useful: lens garden page

BC, here's how to tell millipedes from centipedes at a quick glance: millipedes have two legs per body segment, while centipedes have one. You picture clearly shows two legs per segment.

it was said "millipedes have two legs per body segment, while centipedes have one"

Not quite right.
Millipedes have 4 legs (or two pair) per body segment, while centipedes have 2 legs (or one pair).