23,822 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

So, I did it!
I set up a table with its feet in tubs of water, and the starts have been on it for 10 days with no snail damage! They would not have survived one night without the moats.
I'm excited about this success, and will use the method again next year :).

Got you nila,
Today I made an arrangement for my seedlings outside.
I put a piice of pressed wood(4ft by fft by 1/2'' thick) on two upside down buckets. Then I sprinkled slug bait around the buckets. If the slugs get close to the bucket(to go up) they will die(melt down). So tonight I will sleep worryless. And since the slug killer is under the table, it will last quite a while even in case of pouring rain.
For table legs( 1.5" by 1.5") I suggested taping a rough sand paper., like 80 grit. Although I have not experimented this myselft but I thing slugs won't dare to crowl on that rough surface.


It looks quite like a wild nightshade that grows as a common weed in socal. I hear the berries are edible when ripe, but otherwise poisonous, but they are too tiny to be worth it to me.
Here is a link that might be useful: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solanum_nigrum

Yep it's their first year.. I didn't expect to see much this year (or on my raspberries) but the strawberries are still pretty much the same size as when I transplanted them. I did give them nitrogen shock, with a few other plants, but the other plants have recovered and started to take off while the berries still sit there. They put out a flower here and there, which I pick off as I read to do, But other than that, they haven't done much.

I use 5 ft wide re-mesh placed horizontally against, and wired, to 6 ft long T posts for the lower trellis height (so base height is 5 ft). T Posts are about 1 ft deep and placed at 4 1/2 ft intervals. I add an extension to the top of the re-mesh using a lighter gauge 2" by 4" wire. The lighter wire has a 3 ft width and runs the length of the re-mesh base. The extension is wired to 4 or 5 ft long poles which are placed against, and also wired, to the re-mesh. The extension has a 1 ft overlapping of the re-mesh so the total trellis is 7 ft - or about the height to which I can reach. Poles supporting the extension are spaced about 3 to 4 ft apart. The spade cleat on T Post keeps the trellis from blowing over in high wind. Bricks placed under the re-mesh at ground level to keep the re-mesh above ground to protect it from soil corrosion.

I've never really understood why anyone goes to all the trouble of trellising pole beans or peas. Sweet peas I understand, since you want the flowers to be as visible as possible, but not edible beans. I plant bean seeds 2-3" apart in a 5' wide row, and they support themselves, forming a mat that is surprisingly tidy (maybe a few wayward vine tips drifting into the path). The mat is not too dense to prevent easy harvesting, but you do have more sneaky hideaways, I imagine, than you would with trellised beans.


I must admit I bought indeterminate patio starter tomatoes (rather then raising from seed) for the
Bato buckets. I believe at least one was a money maker. It has been so cold, grey and damp that
I couldnt really use the Greenhouse until mid April. I have subsequently grown a batch of
Amish paste, grape and cherries for my regular outside garden. They are growing like
weeds. I used NC tomato mans method - start 30 seeds in a yogurt cup let em pop and grow for a
week or 2 then transplant to individual cells. You can see that here... Man it works great even when
they are that young they survive transplanting very well.


Figured it was sunscald, But to answer your question, I'm not sure if they were hardened off, as these were transplants from the local garden ctr, and where they were was shaded. Any chance of recovery??
This post was edited by bomber095 on Thu, May 9, 13 at 19:00

Thanks for all your input folks. I took 10 of the largest tomatoes outside, repotted them, and rolled them into the garage at night. There were 4 Rosso Sicilian plants that were just monsters (I've never grown them before, quite impressed).
I'll probably take out a few more each night (there's about 20 more still inside), when they've clearly outgrown thier temprary housing.
Thanks again.

Over hardening is ambiguous to me. Sounds like Over Cooking. But if it implies doing it for a long while, it should then be good thing.
Hardening Up is nothing but making your plants to get used to their new habitat: i.e. temperature, sun and wind, gradually. At some point when the danger of cold and frost is over then you just plant them in their new home.




Here you go. More than anyone probably wants to know about SVB and the various controls.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: SVB Control discussions

Sometimes I get stuff like that as I get towards planting time, when I get overwhelmed with all the gardening projects and I water them too much, too little, or fertilize too much, or to little. I am not really sure what is what, I just know it is typical for me to have a flat or two of my tomatoes/peppers with weirdness on the leaves.
It always fixes itself once they are hardened off and planted int he warm ground.

Thanks for the photo assist, Dave.
They are planted in promix, and I have not fertilized. But I just realized I used the promix vegetable and herb blend! That could explain why my eggplant seedlings looked bad as well (which I thought was a light issue)!
Yes, they are cowpots, which I thought was a huge mistake, but the small pots held up so well I used the larger ones when I potted up. I plan on removing them when I plant in my garden.
thanks for the input, everyone! So it does not look like disease to you? I had such an abysmal year for tomatoes last year (pin worms, fun) that I am a bit paranoid now. Realizing my dumb potting mix could be the issue--we'll see soon. It is finally warming up here so I can plant outside.


Does anyone know if tinfoil or aluminum foil works to repel slugs and snails? I am trying out this method (details in the link) where you use pieces of tp rolls and wrap them in tinfoil then place it around the base of your plants. (not my idea or blog, someone else's)
Here is a link that might be useful: Slug collars


I got everything planted except for squash. I'll get that in a few days. It's been mostly sprinkles and good old fashioned pitter patter rain so far. The good side is that it seems to be warmer. The over cast skies made for stress free transplanting too.
As far as strawbales go....i wouldn't mind growing potatoes in them; but i'm a dirty girl. I want to dig and feel the dirt between my toes!
Ya'll have a great soggy day!
Thanks again for all the feedback!




Agree with the others - that is not parsley. And I agree with those who said 2nd year parsley is worth keeping. I make a lot of taboulli, so have a big parsley patch.
In my experience, the 2nd year parsley comes up early in the spring - I'm a little north of you, and my plants are generally about a week or two behind those of friends in the Chicago area. Right now, my second year parsley is about 2 inches tall. It will set flower pretty quickly after it reaches full size. I will let it flower and set seed and will pull it only after the seed has scattered. That will seed my garden for next year.
I expect to start seeing first year plants any day now, growing from the seed of last year's second-year plants. The seedlings always come quite a bit later than the second year plants. I'll then transplant them where I want them to grow this year.
This system has worked very well for me. I haven't bought parsley seed or seeded my garden for at least 7 years and always have a nice, healthy patch.
About planting parsley from seeds & spacing:
I never try to plant pasley seeds by spacing or rows. Here is how I do it:
Get a container of about one quart, or larger.
Almost fill it with finely sifted garden soil.
Empty the pack of seeds in there. Keep mixing as thoroughly as you can. You can also do MIXING in a bigger container. Statistically and by the law of probabilities the seeds should be pretty much evenly mixed with the soil in the container. Even if it did not, the next step will do the trick.
Take a fistfull of the mixture and broadcast it over all of the patch. Take the second fistful and do the same...repeat untill all of the mixture is spread.
Now cover the patch with about a 1/8 to 1/4" fine soil or a with a mixture of soil, peat moss and compost.
Sprinkle the surface with fine and gentle watering can or hose shower. You don't want to disturb. so wait a few minutes and sprinkle a littl more ...third time... until the seeds/cover is fully moistened.
Once the seeds germinate and emerge, you may find a few that are too close and a few too far apart(less than 10 percent).
I would not thin any until the thinned ones can be used.
You will get to a point that no thinning is needed.