24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

Your plants have Bacterial Speck IMO but the treatment for all the leaf diseases is the same - strip off affected foliage ASAP, cease any overhead watering/sprinkling, and spray with fungicides on a regular basis to slow the progression of the disease till you can get a harvest. There is no "cure".
And yes there are a number of ORMI approved fungicides available although their benefits are questionable when compared to chemical controls.
As already mentioned you can learn much more about all this over on the forum for growing tomatoes here.
Dave

Thanks for the tips! I will head over there. Now I am not sure which one I have. I swore I had septoria leaf but don't have a pic to post. Removed and disposed of all affected leaves and I am going to start spraying the only acceptable fungicide by my picky community and hope for the best :).

Great story. You have a right to be proud of your success. It always makes me chuckle hearing people rave about how delicious fresh home-grown produce harvested at peak is. I have come to expect such quality every year during harvest time, it is a normal thing for me and my fellow gardeners. Think about what so many people are missing out on. Such is life in the modern urban society I guess, really rather sad when one thinks about it.
I apologize for going off-topic but regarding the food shelf idea, I offered to give excess produce to my local food shelf. They said I had to fill out a pile of forms and agree to spot health department inspections. I could also be held liable if anyone got sick from what I donated, potentially even if the produce was contaminated after it left my control. I also would have to pick everything myself and drive it the one hour round trip to where the county food shelf is located. The simple fact is that people want free food, no strings attached. Most do not want to put forth any effort to acquire it. Heck, I was even told not to bring shell peas because nobody wants to have to shell them before using.
Forget all that. What extra that I do not give away to family, friends, neighbors, and/or local elderly gets tossed on the compost pile, with a clear conscience and no regrets.
Congratulations on your success!
-Tom

European type radishes are noted for their "bite". They do vary with some being relatively mild. You have to choose whether you want a pungent radish or a mild one. Among the easiest and quickest is Scarlet Globe.
Some are pretty, have good pungentcy but are tempermental to grow. Sparkler and French Breakfast fit into that category.

My favorite open pollinated mild radish is Pink Beauty. 
Of course you have a whole line of the larger winter radishes (oriental) which range from very mild to pungent. My favorite is this category is Watermelon. 


Summer side shoots aren't worth much, but the same plants can produce prodigious side shoots when fall comes - some as big as the original main head. I always pick varieties for their side shoot production and leave them in place for fall.
If all I ever got from broccoli were the single heads, I wouldn't bother growing them at all.



My mother (who has horses and a garden in ground) and I (who uses her horse manure in my containers and raised bed) have both found that composted manure cannot really stand alone as an additive to native soil. It is great to include in the mix but you need real compost in there too. I don't know the science behind it all all but we have had similar experiences. The first year everything looks good and the second year when the soil gets depleted and only manure is added, everything is stunted and yellowish. I think there is some nutrients missing.


I've had deer predation in my garden this year. A neighbor used to keep a couple hound dogs kenneled next door. A year after the neighbor left, the deer arrived.
So, one solution to deer is obviously a big dog or two. I couldn't do that in this location, so I read everything I could find about deterring them. Smell is their weakness.
Deer respect male urine as a boundary. Apparently there's a hormone in it which they can smell.
Also, all the spray deterrents with good ratings seem to have albumin as the main ingredient. That's egg white. So I mixed up some egg with water and a little dish soap to make it stick. I put it in the sun for a couple days to get good and stinky.
In the end, both urine and rotten egg spray were effective. (Urine is much easier) I found tracks for a while with no eating, and now, no tracks either.
Have to reapply after rain though.
I like the venison solution too, but they never come around during hunting season!
Jeff.





What is the likely hood of over watering some things before getting it figured out?
It's possible of course but with careful monitoring for the first week or so you should be able to ID any problems and fix them. And it will take some experimenting to get the time on and frequency set (most run them too often and for too short a time).
But an emitter can always be replaced with a slower one or traded with another faster one somewhere else. Drip tape can always be moved, spliced or Super glued shut and re-cut later if needed.
Don't misunderstand me - no system is ever perfect. Tears and holes happen, emitters get plugged, hard water is hard on the system. And no system can be just "set and forget" no matter how small it may be. But when compared to other methods it benefits both the plants and the gardener.
Dave


Lots of discussions here - and on the Organic Gardening forum - that the search will pull up.
Just a few brand names:
Neptune's Harvest
Maxicrop
Earth Juice
Worm's Way
Espoma
Bioform
Alaska Fish
EB Stone
Foxfarm
etc.
They all make several different products.
Then if you need individual nutrients or micronutrients there is always Bat guano, Alfalfa Meal, Bloodmeal, Cottonseed Meal, Crab Meal, Greensand, etc.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Organic Gardening forum

But for future reference "proactive [preventative] bug control", regardless of the spray used, is never recommended. Not only because it doesn't work - the control has to be sprayed on the bugs - but because it almost always kills more beneficial bugs and harms more plants than the bad bug would have done in the first place.
Proactive fungicide use does have a place in the garden since they are primarily preventatives, not cures. But even then only under certain conditions and only when the spray used is actually a fungicide.
But YouTube, as a source of information, should always be viewed with a skeptic's eye until that info can be verified by other sources.
Still you learned a valuable lesson for the future. :-)
Dave



First year onions do not normally flower. Second year onions WILL flower.
Yes, if they threaten to flower, cut off the seed stalk (this will be in the middle and have a bulb on the end.)