23,822 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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ditnc(7 NC)

Yes, but not to that extreme. Individual leaves just going vertically downward. They still have good leaves as well. Too late to revive? Thnx.

    Bookmark     May 6, 2013 at 5:03PM
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ditnc(7 NC)

Well, I googled damping off of peppers, and it doesn't sound good.

Trying to decide whether to segregate those with wilts from those that don't, throw the ones with wilted leaves away, or try to dry them all out in the bathroom with the space heater and hope for the best.

It was a lot of work getting them to this point...I'm pretty bummed out...

I can't figure out where it came from. I used new cell packs, brand new seed starter mix, etc. All was fine until they got wet and the weather turned cool. :(

    Bookmark     May 6, 2013 at 6:06PM
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zzackey(8b GA)

Please post a picture.

    Bookmark     May 6, 2013 at 6:01PM
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greenmonster182(7)

I thought I did I will try again

    Bookmark     May 6, 2013 at 6:04PM
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uncle_t(Z6 Ontario CAN)

You want to keep the surface soil moist to make it easy for seedlings to break the surface; so keep misting at least twice a day.

Carrot, beets and radish need to develop tap roots long enough to find moisture for themselves several inches below growing surface. That means keep misting until they develop at least 1 set of true leaves. Peas also need continual moisture until true leaves. After that you can back off the misting and consider adding much--unless you're growing intensive spacing.

    Bookmark     May 6, 2013 at 3:17PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

"Constantly moist" is for germination only so they can break the soil surface as mentioned. That is where misting plays a role.

Once germinated water needs switch to what is normal for the plant and the soil it is in.

Dave

    Bookmark     May 6, 2013 at 5:32PM
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uncle_t(Z6 Ontario CAN)

Yesterday I planted a 10 ft. line of NP seeds. It's rather early for our zone, but ground temps are good. The weather has been fantastic and is supposed to stay warm and sunny for another two weeks. It that happens, we should be in the clear regarding frost or near frost temps. If it doesn't, all I've lost is a line of seeds.

I prefer to direct sow cucumbers and I'll trellis this line.

    Bookmark     May 6, 2013 at 2:29PM
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organic_girl_ma

They are big... ok, I will put them into an Earth Box, with a trellis leaning on the wall. Hopefully this should work..

    Bookmark     May 6, 2013 at 3:21PM
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Edymnion(7a)

I kept reading that they needed to be "certified seed potatoes" or something like that.

The difference is that certified seed potatoes are specifically grown in sterile soil to ensure they are as close to 100% disease free as possible.

I generally find that its a waste of money for anyone but major planters (actual farmers doing acres of plants) to bother with them. Potatoes you buy in the grocery store will be very unlikely to be diseased (and most of the diseases that matter you could see just by looking at the malformed tuber), and they will grow just fine.

---

That said, yeah, plant now. A potato will only die if the tuber freezes pretty much solid. Assuming you're planting the normal 6-8 inches deep, it will basically never freeze that hard anywhere south of the arctic circle. While it may grow up and then have the top die back due to freezing, the tubers will be safe and will just sit there happily waiting on warmer weather.

    Bookmark     May 2, 2013 at 2:03PM
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purple1701(5B Chicago)

They are just now starting to sprout above the ground! So exciting :-)

(can you tell I'm a new gardener? LOL)

    Bookmark     May 6, 2013 at 11:46AM
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macky77(2a)

The method of weed control you use will vary with the type of weed. Annual weeds that germinate from seed can be smothered by all sorts of mulches. Perennial weeds that keep coming from the root no matter how many times you sever or kill the tops are an entirely different story.

For the best results, identify your weeds first.

    Bookmark     May 6, 2013 at 11:09AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Couple of different possibilities. Start with the easiest - look at the underside of the leaves. Do the spots go all the way through? Look for aphids, squash bugs, spider mites.

If no pests than it's the most likely, especially given your weather - Downey Mildew. The spores can come from all sorts of sources - the mulch, pests, the soil, even the air. Treatment is fungicides sprays.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Common Cucurbit Problems

    Bookmark     May 3, 2013 at 2:48PM
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Desireea3

Don't see any bugs and no white on the underside. On the underside it is clear not colored at all but look like looking through plastic. Hope this makes sense.

    Bookmark     May 6, 2013 at 10:18AM
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mandolls(4)

My Eggplants are growing faster than expected too. I always start them the same time as my peppers, and I dont remember them growing so much faster. They were started March 8th, a week earlier than last year. I had to pot some of them up to 20 oz cups. Lots of my pepper plants have blooms, but thats the usual for me and I always just leave those to grow.

    Bookmark     May 6, 2013 at 7:11AM
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mwhidden(5b)

@digdirt, @mandolls: Thank you both for your suggestions. I'm reassured that I can either pinch them off or leave them, and yes, I'll wait until a couple of weeks later next year.

    Bookmark     May 6, 2013 at 8:49AM
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tdscpa(z5 NWKS)

Another thought. I assume you plant in a potting, or starter mix. I germinate my seeds in damp paper towels, then transfer to potting mix upon germination.

I have found that the deeper I plant the newly germinated sprouts, the more likely they are to emerge without the seed shell sticking the cotyledons together, or with both cotyledons still encased in the seeds. (Helmet heads.)

You might try planting seed slightly deeper, and packing down the potting mix a little firmer, which should encourage better scrubbing-off of the seed shell.

    Bookmark     May 6, 2013 at 1:23AM
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LynnMarie_(5 SW Kansas)

"Looks like I have finally received my last blizzard and freeze for this cycle."

We can only hope! I am planting my tomatoes this week one way or another. They won't live much longer in their little pots.

Ekgrows, have you tried asking your question on the hot pepper forum? They may have some more ideas for you.

Lynn

    Bookmark     May 6, 2013 at 7:07AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Ahh but these parasites, if they exist, will survive how long exposed to the elements? Plus this assumes that no parasites already exist normally with in soil. They do. tapeworms, whipworms, roundworm, hookworms, misc. protoza, to name just a few. Not to mention all the bacteria and fungi.

As mentioned "Gardens grow in dirt" and it will never be a sterile process, nor would it work if it was. Thus the "wash your hands and wash your food" guideline in gardening.

While pregnant women are advised to avoid dealing with litter boxes due to the possibility of toxoplasmosis they are also advised not to raise chickens or other fowl or be exposed to manures while pregnant due to histoplasmosis, not to work with garden chemicals, and many other things. But we aren't talking about pregnant women and the OP has already pointed out that they are not growing root vegetables or other low growing crops.

So scare warnings about unrelated issues serve no point.

Dave

    Bookmark     May 5, 2013 at 10:16PM
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lucillle

Sigh. A family with a one year old child is a family that might add to their family again. These warnings are on point, not to dissuade gardening, but to give knowledge.
It is the sort of knowledge one appreciates knowing about before the fact.

    Bookmark     May 6, 2013 at 5:48AM
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Thazo

I can't use row covers. All of my cucurbita are going to grow up trellises via ties. I don't have much land space so..
The brand is Garden Safe, and it is a tablespoon per gallon.
The reason I need to spray at night is because neem oil degrades in uv light. So if you spray at night it allows the neem oil to work longer. Plus, neem is also an anti-fungal, so I don't think it will be a problem to spray the plants at night.

    Bookmark     May 5, 2013 at 8:26PM
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zzackey(8b GA)

We have alot of dew in the summer. I read where if you start your squashes from seeds they have a better resistance from the squash bugs. Plant your seeds in pots and then transplant them. I also read that planting petunias near your squashes deters the squash vine borers. I am going to try that this year. I hope it works! I lost some beautiful squashes to those nasty bugs last year.

    Bookmark     May 5, 2013 at 8:44PM
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Edymnion(7a)

If you paid someone to do this for you, I'd be calling them and demanding they come back and do the job they didn't finish properly the first time around.

Otherwise yeah, boyscouts are a good answer.

    Bookmark     April 8, 2013 at 8:54PM
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dowbright(z6 in Missouri)

Just to follow up, the landscaper DID come back and solve the problem. I'd missed several planting dates, but still...at least he solved the problem.

Thanks for the help. :D

    Bookmark     May 5, 2013 at 4:12PM
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AiliDeSpain(6a - Utah)

I am also trying artichokes in zone 6a/Utah. It has been a cool spring over all. I grew mine from seed and set them out in late March. They honestly have not grown much at all and two of mine died. I believe the fluctuating temps were too much for them despite my efforts to protect them from freezing temps.
With that being said I think they will start to take off once the weather is consistently warmer.
I have lost alot of the older leaves which yellow and get crunchy. I just trim them off. I think older leaves yellowing is normal. Can you post a pic so we can see what yours look like?

    Bookmark     May 5, 2013 at 1:02PM
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treehugger101

I can try but I do believe it is the weather. My tomatoes are just sitting there and ever most of my seeds have not come up. The next week is supposed to be rainy. Hopefully it will warm up soon! Thanks for the replies.

    Bookmark     May 5, 2013 at 2:56PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

I just want the better eating pepper.

And that's the problem. Not only are all these factors affected by various growing conditions but they are very subjective in nature. So consistent opinions/descriptions is almost impossible. Especially so with flavor.

What tastes good to one person is yucko to others, what is good production to one person is poor production to others, what is sweet to one is hot to others, what is a favorite to some is a don't waste the space to others, etc.

All any of us can do is try them and see how they do in our garden and on our taste buds.

Dave

    Bookmark     May 5, 2013 at 1:01PM
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lolauren(7a)

Well, if you ask my husband or me about the Corno di Toros, we would both give you a different answer from tasting the same pepper.

So, from my experience, if you have a strong or sensitive sense of taste/smell, the Corno will have heat to it.... If you don't, then they are only a sweet pepper. :)

    Bookmark     May 5, 2013 at 1:06PM
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corin99(7b Triangle NC)

I'm in the same area, NC piedmont, I've had my tomatoes in the ground for almost 3 weeks now. They're growing more slowly than in previous years, but are about 2' tall already and looking nice and healthy. I even have a few small tomatoes forming. This is without any kind of protection. (WOW = Wall of Water, a kind of plant protector for cold weather).

I actually came here today because I've been holding off on transplanting my peppers and eggplants. But I think I'll go ahead and do it today.

    Bookmark     May 5, 2013 at 12:23PM
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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

Yup, hoping those 55-60 nights predicted are what we get from here on out. Of course that means no more meandering in the woods enjoying spring. Time to get back to work and plant those summer crops!

    Bookmark     May 5, 2013 at 12:32PM
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