23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
Glad to know!
The black part seems to be growing and spreading on the leaf and some of the other leaves is having tiny bit for dark parts on the edge as well.
edit: went out and took a quick picture
This post was edited by bobosaur on Fri, May 17, 13 at 15:20
Harvesting should be done when heads are tight.
You'll know when it's a tad late when the florets start to separate. You'll then know for future harvests.
t-bird: give them some time -- most heading broccoli, in my experience, take about 80-90 days to harvest.
Kevin
Yea, 40 is about the max for that space, maybe a few less is better. Trimming suckers is one of those topics people can discuss forever, but my opinion is leave them alone. Suckers often tastle, which is helpful in smaller plantings for pollination. Sometimes you even get some good ears on the bigger suckers.
Don't forget to side dress with a nitrogen rich fertilizer once or twice as the corn grows.
If you do not have a good hill ,and if you get a lot of rain and wind, then vines would fall down and with continued rain they will get stem rot and die. This has happened to me before..
I would drive few stakes(about 2 feet high) here and there and run a twine around them to hold the vines up. I have just one row(about 10 hills this year) and I am thinking about doing it myself.
Seysonn...we're on the same wave length. That's exactly what I'm going to do. I have a 30ft. row of LaRattes. This is my first year growing them, so I started one in a container in January to see how it behaves. Now, fully mature, it has 4ft vines!
All depends -- brassicas are cool weather crops but most can be planted in the late summer here. That's why I always start them under lights indoors. I'm still trying to get a decent brussels to grow-- I think I finally figured it out though -- I think I need to start them in the dead of summer or... not try any longer
They're all different though -- what may be good for kale and collards may not be so good for the finicky cauli. I've even read recently that cold can cause bok choy to bolt.
Kevin
Ive just asked a similar question! They are eating the roots of my lettuce and a couple of herbs, but always the smaller ones.
They are the larvae of click beetles as far as ive found out online and can live for years in the soil before becoming adults. The adults dont cause as much damage as the larvae and ive not seen one yet this year.
We have click beetles *everywhere*, so I'd like to do something about them as well as the worms. Yesterday I checked my traps and found five worms on one carrot. I was not happy. Well, I was happy about the fact that they're dead now (squish), but I wasn't happy to find so many there. I found probably eight altogether checking all my traps, and that was only a day or two after checking them last time. (I should point out the fact that my "garden" is just a hobby garden. I planted a narrow flower bed and one raised bed that I made from an old dresser. So eight worms in what is roughly a 14 x
By just looking at your soil, it occurs to me that it has TOO MUCH chunky compost.
It is a well know fact that such organic matter ,poor in nutrients , will absorb most of what you are trying to feed to your plants. This will continue until that compost,chips are satured with nutrients . Then will come your plants turn to hav something to eat. In the future, as the coarse compost disintegrates, the nutriens will be released.
From the most recent photoes, it seems to me that your plans are getting a bit more nutrients. That means, up untill then the compost(or whatever the medium) was absorbing the food.
I rooted some cuttings from a sweet potato vine last fall before the first frost, and planted them in the greenhouse for the winter. They didn't have enough light and crawled around all over the place losing most of the leaves except at the ends. Now I can cut those long vines into about 8 inch pieces and they root and sprout in in water in just a couple of days. I could have hundreds of sweetpotatos from this easy method and have been giving cuttings away right and left. The problem is that I have no idea what variety they are.
An acquaintance offered me some thornless blackberry transplants this past week. I scored two new friends and 8 beautiful thornless blackberry plants. I plan to intentionally root new plants once the berries are picked so that I can pass on those plants to others. Keep paying it forward is the way to go!
What are you growing in there? If you are growing anything other than a leafy crop (lettuce, spinach, chard, etc.) that lighting setup won't provide enough light to produce a fruit, or anything worthwhile to offset the cost of the setup/lights. Does your apartment have a balcony? That would be a safer bet. I am amazed at the lengths you went to to grow something, and I wish I could see the face of your landlord if they ever saw that setup.
You pretty much have the same situation as people trying to grow vegetables in a shadier part of their yard. And the same advice applies here. Low light levels don't necessarily kill the plant they weaken it and make it harder for the plant to flower and produce fruit. So for something like a tomato or a pepper you might get one fruit on your plant. However if you grow something that only has leaves to begin with you have a much better change of getting something you can use for your effort. Everything will be weaker, stunted and more prone to disease, but as you have found out leaves still grow.
Thanks ABNORM ! Unfortunately I am a little scared to flood the system entirely since we are on the 2nd floor with the landlord right below us the last thing we need is to flood their kitchen as well! However, instead of the water running for 30 min increments 6 times a day, I just changed the cycle to run for 1 hour increments, 4 times a day. Hopefully this will allow them to soak up more water. The fabric we are using is capillary mat from the hydro store. We didn't know we were supposed to soak the fabric before using it, so once we actually soaked it the plants seemed to be doing MUCH better, however still not 100% I will let you know how they're doing with the new water cycle and hopefully there will be more improvements
WEIRDTREV, there a bunch of different kinds of cucumber, garden beans, and tomatos. And as for the landlord, he was actually stoked because he wants some fresh greens!
TO ALL, hopefully within the next week a larger, more powerful light will be added to the arsenal! Gardening is something very important to me as it is something I have been doing with my mum my whole life since I can remember. This is my first year not being able to have land to use so my incredible boyfriend built this for me so I can still enjoy this hobby.. I really hope they start to cheer up more!
Peppers should easily be able to recover from a few nights in the high 40's. Low 40's might be a different story. You say they are looking better now. Were they blooming yet? Did they drop their blooms? Seems like in zone 7 you should be fine. Even in WI, I put mine out by the end of May usually.
WEED CONTROL METHODS:
1- just pull them up by two fingers.
2- use a hoe (short or long handle)
3- mulch, mulch, mulch.
Mulching serves often more than one purpose: it helps reduce weeds grow : It helps to retain moisture . It helps to keep plants root system coolER in hot days.
Hand weeding is therapeutic. Just like fishing in a stream. And like Dave said, you can find out more what is going on.
MULCHING MATERIALS: Down south, I used pine straw(needles), that I collected for free. Also used wheat straw and tree leaves(Oak, maple). I never entartained the idea of using plasic, cardboards, newspapers. The last two would get just mushy and sticky when wet. I don't like walking on them. Plastics in the garden ? against my gardening religion . heh
Some great info, especially on watering. #1 killer of peppers is overwatering.
It should be noted, however, that if you are located in a Mediterranean climate summer can quickly exceed the threshold for most chile varieties, at which time blossoms and fruit drop and continue to drop until temperatures subside. Point being that in these hotter climates full sun is excessive and results in a lower yield overall, regardless of slightly better growth/yield in early spring and fall. In my experience peppers in the hottest climates require less sun and benefit from a break at some point, preferably mid-late afternoon.
Many people locally avoid peppers like the plague because they are directed to plant them in full sun when in fact it is too hot for them. When stall from June to August they are often ripped out before they have a chance in autumn.
In most climates the OP is absolutely correct but this should be noted for Mediterranean or hotter climate gardeners. I have a piece of burlap shading my peppers now and it hasn't hit 100ð yet. Technically 70ð-80ð is the ideal temperature range, IIRC.
Njitgrad, here is a pic of the manifold. I'm breaking it out to couple more zones soon. If you click the picture it should take you out to my photobucket... I snapped a few shots of the dripper stakes throughout my raised beds and in ground plantings. The containers in the pics are modified to be raised beds by cutting the bottoms out and burying an inch or two of the container.
The filter in the pic is to remove any chlorine from the supply, it's probably not needed, but it was cheap enough to do.
You do have a pressure regulating valve, I hope? I have basically a very similar system - drip tape for my 4' wide beds of lettuce, beets, beans, etc. and tubing with drip emitters (1 gal. per hour) for tomatoes, cucumbers and squash. The drip tape needs a valve of no more than 15 PSI. The drip emitters can handle up to 30 PSI. Both of these are much lower than the normal pressure of a water system. That could be a big part of your problem. I recommend the Dripworks.com site - that is where I bought my system but even if you don't but anything their site has a LOT of information on it. (I found out about it through this forum.)
The cold front moves in tonight through Monday.*
Oops. I misread the date on the OP. :)