23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
This weeks local alt rag actually has a good idea - kale floret pesto. I'll be freezing a batch of this!
http://citypaper.com/special/sizzlinsummer/marketable-skills-1.1489203
Here is a link that might be useful: Kale floret pesto
OP here.
I think I'm in the clear. See pics below for how I protected my cukes and others these last three nights.
I stapled the 6 mil plastic sheeting into the bed frames and during the day I pulled some of the corners off to prevent getting stewed veggies.
At night I re-stapled to keep the cold air out.
My zuchinni plant actually liked the conditions under the plastic because when I pulled if off this morning, I saw my first flower bloom. Which actually answers another question from another thread I posted last week...the topic of whether or not my seedlings were too big to transplant.
This post was edited by njitgrad on Wed, May 15, 13 at 11:11
There are many good "hole prep" discussions over on the Tomato forum.
When doing hole prep rather than whole bed prep (the best method) then you have to start with a much bigger hole for each plant. 3x wider and at least 2x deeper than normal and you mix the 3T of fertilizer in well throughout the entire hole area as the instructions indicate. Then put in the plant.
You do NOT want all the fertilizer concentrated in one area. You want it where the roots will find it as they grow and expand.
Peppers and herbs have very different nutrient requirements from tomatoes. So with that particular fertilizer - Eggplant yes, peppers use only 1/2 as much, herbs none.
Dave
Thank you, I will follow your advice about spreading out the fertilizer and the amounts for the eggplant and peppers.
For next season, how soon in advance do you recommend I add the fertilizer and mix into the soil?
My raised beds for tomatoes are only 2x4, or 8 sq ft, so I would use about 1/6th of the 9 cups for 50 sq ft. Basically 1.5 cups per bed, sprinked uniformly on top and then worked in with a hoe or hand raked in to a depth of about 4 inches. Does that sound about right?
For the containers I'm assuming it should be mixed in a wheelbarrow prior to filling the containers. 30 parts of gowing mix to 1 part of fertilizer.
Georgia Jet gets a lot of recomendatons for northern gardeners. never grown it. have grown Beauregard and Covington. Covington may be slightly more flavorful, but there is very little difference in growtg habits and production. Both have rampant vines which bloom a lot. Very Pretty.
Covington
In my experience Ga Jet will always produce a crop, but many will be huge "lunkers". Beauregard is a better potato, and I've seed very impressive numbers on the yield of Covington though I haven't grown it myself yet. I like the way Beauregard runs about 6 feet and smothers weeds.
A couple of years ago I tossed a mango seed on my compost heap. Everyday I would put kitchen scraps, grass clippings, etc. (typical compost heap) on top. Then I went on vacation. When I got back I had an 18-inch mango sprout coming up. Therefore, I would cover the seed.
I prune suckers and trellis my cucumbers up twine tied with slip knots to an overhead support. Used wire this year but I think bamboo is better because its more rigid. I shorten the twine periodically to keep them growing vertically. This method allows for close planting, 12" proves plenty and they help support each other laterally. I planted the Burpless starters last year and they produced massive 18" fruit with very little bitterness. Definitely planted a few this year.
As anxious as we are to taste the fruits of our labor, with perennials like asparagus, being patient pays off in the long run.
Those look a little small and have mostly gone to fern, which is a good thing. Let them grow and next year, you should be in good shape.
This photo isn't meant to brag, but to show a comparison between two Minnesota growing experiences. The spears were my first harvest, on May 08, from an old established bed. I like to harvest short because I like them better that way, the spears by the tape measure are more like what a person finds in the grocery store, only much better tasting. (Notice spear diameters and compare to yours.)
You have nice healthy young plants that still need to grow and establish themselves. As wolverine said, your patience will reward you greatly. The only possible negative I see is that once you start harvesting and eating them you will wish you had planted more. :)
Good Luck!
Trying to grow in a pot and using only organics and growing in a raised bed using only organics are 2 entirely different things and have been discussed here in great depth many times..
Assuming your raised beds contain some soil as they should then they at least have the beginning of a soil micro-herd that will let compost and organic fertilizers work to supply nutrients. How well they will work all depends on how well develop the soil bacterial herd is.
In a container, which presumably contains soil-less potting mix as it is supposed to and if it doesn't then you have a whole other set of problems - there is no micro-herd, no soil bacteria to convert compost and other powder/granular organics to nutrients. Liquid organics will work.
Further you don't move/transplant/or disturb root crops once planted. So in a round container you do not seed in rows. In fact in most any container you do not seed in rows. it just wastes space and encourages you to over-seed. You plant seeds using proper spacing to begin with in a circular fashion using the entire surface of the pot. Then you thin, not transplant, as needed.
Compost is normally mixed in with the soil in a garden bed, not layered on top. Compost's best use in a pot is as a mulch only AFTER the plants are well established.
You have time to start over and do it right this time with most all these containers you have been posting about. meanwhile if you only want to use organic fertilizers in both places - pots and beds - buy one of the many good organic liquid fertilizers available and use it, following label directions, to feed all your plants.
IMO you have bitten off way more than you will be able to chew much less swallow this year and it is going to create constant problems for you. Which is why I and others have encouraged you to slow down and learn before the fact, not after. But what's done is done so accept that this year is going to be a struggling learning curve for you and plan accordingly.
Dave
Thanks for all the criticism and advice. I'm trying to grow as much possible so that I can use as much as possible for the restaurant.
I'm going to dump all the containers and add in a potting mix.
Any recommendations?
Now the main focus is getting the soil correct and learning the correct way to water and care for vegetables.
I'd like to buy a liquid organic fertilizer any recommendations ?
Thanks again
Mario
In my garden cross pollination rate is anywhere from 0% to 20% or more of the seed in any fruit (average was 12% I think). Halactid sweatbees do the pollinating and crossing.
But that still means you will most likely get what you want from saving seeds, with the rare surprise.
Waaaaaaaaaay too early for setting them out in ME in my opinion. I am in NJ, and with the odd spring this year (even in a normal season) I would not set out my watermelons or any cucurbits yet. I normally do that sometime around this week or next, once the night time temps are averaging in the mid 50's or so.
Agree. far too early for them to be planted out. Only just now planting time down here given this year's weather.
Dave