24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

Just to add, some problems related to watering can be from over watering or just uneven watering. If you let things dry out too much then water heavily you are still stressing the plants. If you really get no rain where you live, I would suggest drip irrigation. There are some great hose systems out there and then you can turn them on every other day for a short time. This will be more even and will prevent damage to the leaves from getting them wet when the sun is strong.

Marilyn,
Don't lose hope. Your garden looks good, and things will get better.
I'm a first-timer like you too and had a late start to the season as well (we closed in April, and I didn't get to work on the garden until well into May).
Similar to you, I couldn't afford too much and there have been times I have felt I have wasted money that my wife could have used to buy stuff around the house instead.
We ended up with two 5'x5' in-ground beds, tilled the soil 18" deep by hand, and all it cost us was back-breaking labor and bags of compost & vermiculite.
But now as I look at the garden every day with the tomatoes starting bear fruit, the squash and cucumber flowering and the lettuce getting ready to pick, I don't feel so bad at all.
Hang in there, you're on to a good thing!

My opinion: forget about a garden this year. Dig a little hole and see what the soil is like. Based on your photo, it looks like it should be pretty good. Let's say it's good soil. I'm going to assume you don't have time to hand-weed this plot. Cover the whole thing with black plastic, cardboard or something to cut off the light to the weeds and kill them. This will take several weeks. If you used Roundup, you could do it in a week. Warning: if you till without killing the weeds, you'll be sorry.
Then remove any fences and debris, and till or dig at least 6 inches deep. All of the dead grass and weeds now becomes an organic soil amendment. Find out from some local experts whether you need to add lime or phosphorus. If so, till them in. This is also a good time to till in some compost. Now make two raised beds about 4 feet wide, with a path in the middle. I just rake the soil into raised beds; I don't build support walls. But that's up to you. I like raised beds because they are easy on my back.
Now keep the soil surface uncovered and moist for a couple of weeks and let the weed seeds germinate. Any roots that you didn't kill may also resprout. After you've got a nice crop of weeds growing, cover with black plastic or cardboard again until the weeds are dead. If you had planted your veggies right away, these are the weeds that you would be pulling by hand, in the hottest part of the summer.
Now your soil is ready for its first crop, but it will be too late for this year. I like to cover the soil with black plastic over the winter, to keep the windblown weed seeds out, and to keep the soil in good workable condition, so that I can start planting early in spring. Minimize tilling from here on out, to avoid uncovering more weed seeds that are lurking underground. They will sprout as soon as they get some light.
This sounds complicated, but actually it takes very little labor to follow these steps. It just takes a lot of calendar time. A 10 x 20 piece of black plastic is a good investment. Find a few stones or bricks to hold the edges down.

I do something like Lilydude for new beds or extending existing beds. I weed whack the grass/weeds down to the dirt, cover the area with a couple of inches of compost, cover that with cardboard, soak it and top the card board with more compost, or manure, then let it sit all winter. The cardboard suppresses the weeds and attracts worms, and is completely gone by spring. You can just turn it all over and plant.
I got really sick of desodding new areas, and felt like I was losing to much of the best topsoil when doing it.

You'll be surprised how fast they grow! You still have half a month of July and all of Aug and Sept! Most pepper take 65-70 days to maturity, so even if you put in transplants in Early July you are likely still going to get some peppers by Fall! Don't worry, your plants look great!

I think too that in zone 6 in NJ, your peppers and eggplants will have mature fruits well before the end of season. Right now is the beginning of summer and plants can do wonder during hot days of summer, if well watered.
However, too much fertilizing postpone fruiting and instead will give you beautiful foliage.
P.S.
== Some peppers have naturally light green leaves, not because of nutrients deficiency.
== I would mulch the top to maintain moisture better.


Thanks for the responses. I think I will use it for the leafminers on my citrus trees,. I will alternate with Neem oil application every 15 to 30 days or so. Hopefully it should keep them in check!
Here is a link that might be useful: How to use Spinosad

I don't know where you are located, I'm in central Indiana and my Marconi peppers are real behind this year along with the rest of my peppers. Its been rather wet this season and cool. Peppers like it hot and dry. Memorial day weekend is when I put mine out at about 10 in. tall and no branches. They put on 3 blossoms each, developed 3 little peppers and just sat there staying the same size. Now just this last week they have grown to about 16 in. and branched. They also put on lots of blossoms. Could be the season starting. Nothing seems to be "normal" this year

should i cut off those peppers now and let the plant re focus on plant growth and sprouting more stems with flowers/peppers?
That is the standard and recommended practice for all transplants. Personally I recommend never even buying any transplants with fruit already on them as it is a sure sign of a stressed plant. Why start with one that is already stressed? But it you do the best odds for the plant is to remove any of those forced blooms and/or fruit.
Dave



You'll have to get a much closer photo of the bug itself to even begin to ID it. Could it be an SVB moth? Possibly. It could also be 150 other things. So rather than panic just look up a pic of the SVB and compare it.
Multiple pics - just C&P the URLS in the post double spaced one after another.
Dave

lots of reasons why raised beds?
saves doing any tilling or digging so saves teh back, alos depending on height saves bending our latest beds make gardening so much easier.
good for moisture control, no weeds, and these new ones up out of teh reach of any creature that digs,
len

Here is a link that might be useful: lens bale garden

as new 'taters they will taste a treat steamed in their jackets, with ot without a dollop of butter.
if you want put them in the fridge and if they chit(bud) for next season plant them, planting size is no mater as spuds will grow fro peelings.
flowering has nothing to do with harvesting, that occurs when plants die off. we hardly see flowers, just 'taters.
len

Here is a link that might be useful: lens instant potato patch




I like those round yellow one, Mastero Farmerdill.
I do not have any specific example, but some taste too water with ver little flavor until they are pan fried. That is basically how I like them, pan fried.
We like the big ones sliced into thick rounds and grilled with a little oil and Italian seasonings.
I haven't grown anything but a few different varieties of green/black and haven't really noticed any difference in taste. Using up the last of my Raven seeds this year, noted last year they weren't as prolific as the "standard" (Fordhook?) green mottled one I bought as a start from greenhouse. I think my dad seeded Fordhook this year, I'll have to compare again and report back. Farmer up the road from me swears by Golden Rod.