23,822 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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tedintexas(8)

Elisa, I also have a troy built pony, one of the oldies, and those were the best built. I have a furrow maker that I use for making raised beds, and it works very well. I have not planted potatoes, but that is on my list. I got the furrow maker on eBay, and for the $60 I paid for it, it is an enormous time saver.

    Bookmark     April 21, 2013 at 7:26PM
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pnbrown

This year I used the rotary plow to make the potato-trenches. Comes out deeper than using the tiller w/furrower behind, but the soil is all on one side.

    Bookmark     April 21, 2013 at 8:54PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Lots of grub pic/ID sources on the web are available. GoogleImages has pic IDs of 100s of them.

The discussion from last week linked below includes links to at least one of them. And if you put 'grubs' in the forum search bar below you find several other discussions with pics and links in them.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Grub ID

    Bookmark     April 21, 2013 at 6:29PM
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another_buffalo(6)

Thanks Dave, I suspect that it is a Japanese beetle. I know there are some spores that can be spread around the yard and are permanant control for that area. However, I never did that because I have a large farm and the beetles feast on the wild cherry trees in the fencerows. It would not be possible to spread enough of the spores to contain them.

From the number of grubs that I am seeing, this may be a bad year for the beetles. Thanks, Dave, for helping me know what the issue is with these grubs.
Carol

    Bookmark     April 21, 2013 at 7:26PM
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Ohiofem(6a Ohio)

I've never grown Kale, so I don't know about that. But all the others you mention need at least six hours of sun a day. They would do better with more.

    Bookmark     April 21, 2013 at 5:18PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Kale will tolerate a little shade, afternoon shade, but it prefers sun and all the others on your list are 6-8 hour sun vegetables.

Dave

    Bookmark     April 21, 2013 at 6:32PM
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ceth_k(11)

Corn do better in square shape planting. Do not plant them in rows that have large space in between. Corn is not suitable on raised bed. Their roots are easily exposed that way. They are more suited to deep beds.

Drive some stakes deep into the ground around the corn plants perimeter. When they get higher and the wind is strong tie each of them to the stakes with nylon ropes to give them some badly needed wind resistance.

    Bookmark     April 21, 2013 at 10:09AM
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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

I planted my first 6 plantings of corn in a large raised bed last year. It did well. I plant in rectangle plots 4 rows wide. Three is ok if you assist pollination a bit.

    Bookmark     April 21, 2013 at 5:58PM
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ltilton

Some people would envy you. Don't worry if the sprouts break off, they'll regrow.

    Bookmark     April 21, 2013 at 1:40PM
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SaraElise(8b)

Definitely not a problem. That's how I know it's time to plant potatoes -- the ones in my kitchen start sprouting!

Potatoes are strong growers. I planted a potato last fall, but forgot about it. Then I ended up placing a stepping stone over it this spring and the potato just sprouted around it.

    Bookmark     April 21, 2013 at 4:21PM
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Ohiofem(6a Ohio)

Njitgrad: if you are interested in making your own potting mix, follow the link below to the most popular thread on the Container Gardening Forum. It has run for more than 8 years with well over 2,000 posts. Do yourself a favor and read the long introduction to see the recipe for 5-1-1. I've used this mix to grow tomatoes and lots of other vegetables for three years. It costs me about $3 a cubic foot.

Here is a link that might be useful: Container Soils - Water Movement and Retention

    Bookmark     April 21, 2013 at 1:37PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

but alot of liquid organic fertilizers are already consumed by microbs and ready to use(fish emulsion,fox farm, any other liquid fertilizer), many people even use them hydroponically. The majority of organic fertilzers are inoculated with the organisms to begin with.

You have taken it out of context.

Yes I am well aware of the nature of some liquid organic fertilizers and frequently make that point myself. However it cannot be said about all or even the majority of the many brands available and care must be taken when purchasing.

But you see this discussion is not about liquid fertilizers so all that isn't relevant to it. This discussion has been about dry potting mixes used to fill containers - the so-called expensive organic mixes vs. the less expensive mixes without the hyped "organic" label. And with all dry potting mixes you have to add microbes in some form.

Did you look at how expensive a bag of foxfarm is?

Fox Farm makes several different varieties of mix and yes I am aware of the costs but then I wasn't recommending it either. I merely included it in a short list of some of the 100's of different potting mix brands as one that comes with active mycor already added.

Some mixes don't even have the proper type of fungus fo vegetables,

Name one.

I would just buy a bag of peat moss($10) and a bag or two of compost($3-6).. For 10-15 bucks you can have dozens of containers filled.

You make it sound so simple. But what proportions would you use? And which of the umpteen varieties of bagged compost would you purchase? How do you eliminate the salt build up that comes with using bagged manured compost? Or would you only use non-manured? How much of which type lime would you add to balance the pH? And which wetting agent would you add in what amount to eliminate the hydrophobic nature of peat? There are at least 15-20 recipes for making your own that I know of and likely 50 more. Each has associated issues. The pre-made stuff addresses all those issues so if you advocate making your own to someone who has no basic knowledge then you have to provide all the necessary info or you do them no service.

njitgrad - Container Gardening - the focus of your post - is a totally unique form of growing, regardless of the plant in question, with little if anything in common with standard vegetable gardening. That is why it was given its own forum 10 years ago.

So my point is that all your questions about containers, container mixes, container fertilizing, and container gardening in general are already answered in great detail by highly experienced container growers over on that forum. That includes at least 50 discussions about "what is the 5-1-1 mix", and recipes for making your own.

ProMix BX....can it be purchased at HD or Lowes?

No it is a professional/commercial mix. However it is available from any growers supply and online.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: 5-1-1 discussions

    Bookmark     April 21, 2013 at 1:39PM
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jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

I don't see any fungus. White (gray?) spots look like dried out. Pale older leaves is likely nitrogen shortage.

    Bookmark     April 21, 2013 at 12:46AM
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aeleva(USDA-9 CA)

The white areas look like they are dried out, not like something is growing on top.

I added some 5-3-4 fertilizer last weekend following the manufacturer's instructions because the squash next to it was looking a little yellow too. The squash has greened up but the cucumbers did not.

I guess I'm wondering if I should rip them up and re-plant, because I probably still have time. Or maybe just cut off all of the lower leaves that look like this. It's a bit heartbreaking because there are lots of mini-cucumbers on the vine already.

    Bookmark     April 21, 2013 at 12:11PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

You might want to post this on any of the three New York Gardening forums here or at least search them for local sources recommendations from locals.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Metro NY Gardening forum

    Bookmark     April 21, 2013 at 9:43AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Wish I knew this when I filled my beds last spring. I bought a product called "All Top" which is a Topsoil Compost Blend,

If you search 'topsoil' you'll find all sorts of discussions about how poor it is considered since the term can mean 500 different things, some ok, some not too bad, and some really lousy.

But discussions on how to salvage it when used are common on the Soil & Compost forum here. It can be salvaged simply by adding lots and lots and lots of quality compost to it and mixing it in well. Then use more compost (not wood chips) to mulch the top with and refresh the compost content in the bed each spring..

Using any kind of wood chip mulch in a vegetable garden is a hotly debated topic with lots of pros and cons.

Dave

    Bookmark     April 19, 2013 at 12:53PM
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njitgrad

Dave,

In that case I guess next season I'll remove the cedar mulch covering and add compost on top instead.

But won't the soil that's in my beds just remain there indefintely unless I remove some of it, mix the rest with something else and then refill my beds?

Should the result of my soil test I got from Rutgers reveal the composition of it? See below.



    Bookmark     April 21, 2013 at 9:27AM
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Raw_Nature(5 OH)

How you doing Tommy?

For germination- just keep the seed on the surface consistantrly moist

For seedlings- keep the entire soil moist, but not soaking wet.. You want to water and let the soil surface dry slightly to the touch, water and let dry.. Your soil should be moist like a rung out sponge. It should never be sitting in water.. Overwatering is the number one killer of seedlings.. Just keep the soil moist, and let dry slightly before watering again..

Also, you need adequate light. A bright window would be better then nothing... But you really would do better if you had a cheap shoplight..

Dont hesitate to ask any questions.. Everyone here Is more than happy to help you.

Joe

Here is a link that might be useful: Seed Starting

This post was edited by Raw_Nature on Sat, Apr 20, 13 at 23:45

    Bookmark     April 20, 2013 at 11:40PM
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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

Also, the cotyledons on my early broccoli and cauliflower turned gray/bleached and curled very soon. However the true leaves were very green and healthy.

    Bookmark     April 19, 2013 at 1:27PM
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illori

Thanks :)

I will let them go a little dryer.

Good to know that they'll likely be fine.

    Bookmark     April 20, 2013 at 10:20PM
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gardening_mama

Thank you so much Joe :-) And you're right, she and the two year old are both super excited!! Thanks for the boost, I really needed that and I'll be back here if I encounter any problems.

Thank you much and Happy Gardening!

    Bookmark     April 20, 2013 at 7:34PM
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eidna22

I loved reading this as I am going through the same thing. ESpecially the bit about the strawberries :)

    Bookmark     April 20, 2013 at 9:35PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

White flies possibly but could also be several other things. Without knowing your location or at least your garden zone there is no way to know if it is too early or not for them in your location or what might be in season.

You can Google white flies for lots of pics to compare to yours. Aphids is another possibility.

Either way they are not what did the damage to the back leaf in the picture.

Dave

    Bookmark     April 20, 2013 at 6:31PM
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t-bird(Chicago 5/6)

2-3 layers of carboard over the grass and leave for a years - or build the raised bed over.

Don't just put the raised bed on top of the grass and fill with dirt, some will come through.

    Bookmark     April 20, 2013 at 11:52AM
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sweetquietplace(6 WNC Mtn.)

For the past couple of years, I've been using 20% vinegar for weed and grass control. I like it. My jug says Maestro-Gro on it. Try googling it for more info.

    Bookmark     April 20, 2013 at 2:36PM
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Raw_Nature(5 OH)

Better yet, don't dig at all! Make a raised bed and plant your garden.. Save your back the work..

This is what i do:

-layer newpaper/cardboard on grass
-pile soil ontop of that
-mulch
-Plant!

    Bookmark     April 19, 2013 at 10:13PM
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veggiecanner(Id 5/6)

I used a front tine to make my garden years ago. Just go slow. A little deeper each time.

    Bookmark     April 20, 2013 at 2:04PM
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