23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
Watering any plant isn't a set a schedule thing. Sometimes it might be every day sometimes once a week. It all depends on your soil and the weather, the needs of the plant since all don't need the same amount, and in the ground or in a container. Depending on where you are located every other day could easily be over-watering.
But as a general rule watering less frequently and deeper is.much better that watering frequently and more shallow. It isn't the surface of the soil that you go by, it is the moisture level down at the roots. Stick your finger deep into the soil. If it is still cool and at all moist or damp, don't water.
Keep in mind that most gardeners OVER-water and that most all plants will tolerate too little water much better than they will too much water, so when in doubt, don't water.
Dave
If one does decide to use a pesticide it is imperative that one follows the label directions to the letter. So many bees have been killed by people who do not take the time to read instructions. Farmers around here are now "beekeeping" so their crops will get pollinated!
Deborah....are you CERTAIN that your "black and orange babies " were assassin bugs? Because when I hear a description just like yours ON TOMATOES, I'd suggest that leaf footed bug nymphs are present. They appear in large numbers. The adults look quite similar to ordinary stinkbugs.
Hi folks :).
I love leeks,, and grow about a hundred each year from seed. January is the perfect time to start them, in the PNW.
I clean them by peeling back each outer leaf about 2" and washing under it.
I am a weirdo and like to eat the green parts too, so I don't blanch them. I don't trim them while growing, either.
At harvest, I trim each leaf where it transitions from tough to tender (I do this by feeling them). I use the cut-off straps to make stock, and eat the tender green parts and the white.
Braised leeks are fantastic! I also use leeks in place of onions or shallots, in nearly everything I make. Stir-fry, soups, casseroles... they are great in Thai chicken curry, for example.
I've taken to 'recycling' leeks bought at the store or farmers market. Cut off the bottom 1 or 2 cm and plant.
I've been doing it with green onions (japanese bunching onion) for about a year, and have enough to eat some green onions every day. Now I've added leeks, but it will take a while to build up a collection of them.
I plan on growing them as cut-and-come again leeks, we'll see how that goes.
Regardless, poo of any sort is not generally a good idea in the garden until it's been composted for a couple years. Although around shrubs and trees it's ok.
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NILA
The above is correct or chicken poops but not the case for rabbit poops. I use fresh rabbit poops for my vegetable especially Okra. My 0kra gets 8-9 feet tall and abundance of fruits.
I'm always learning from other experienced growers and Bunty is one of the best I know, this video blog format means it is easy to follow here grow many crops from seed to harvest . . .
These gardening networks are all about sharing information and Bunty's blog is a wealth of great information.
Here is a link that might be useful: Bunty's Blog
seedlings die in dark
Uhhh, you need to explain this comment, at least in the context of this question.
There is no need to leave grow lights on 24 hours a day as plants do benefit from a few hours of darkness daily to complete the photosynthesis cycle. But a few days of 24 hour light isn't going to damage them.
So seedlings do NOT die in the dark. If they did millions of nurseries and growers would be out of business. Not to mention Mother Nature.
Dave
Hey all,
I just returned lights were on for 36 hours just about and they seem fine. Here is the photo I just took, thanks for the comments and great advice.
Now I am gona shut them off at the usual time so I don't break the routine until I get that timer this week.
-Thanks agian,
- Mr Beno
I think you'll be ok, as others have said in different posts, you may need to add some Nitrogen. I would not just go adding lime or dolomite though. You should probably get a soil test done first to see what if anything you need to add to the soil. Check with your local university's agriculture dept, they often will do soil tests for low cost.
I would also not worry about the fungus from the decaying wood, that will most likely help rather than harm anything.
I think I would put more than 6 inches of top soil over the area.
Although you ground down the stumps and surface roots, there are far many more subsurface roots that you're going to have to contend with. I've done the very same thing that you're doing, and I found out the hard way. I'd also till the area as deeply as possible.
yukkuri_kame,
Crimson clover is an annual, if I mow it, it won't come back until fall if there are any seeds still there. If I wait until it seeds in June and then mow it will reseed and give me a nice layer of mulch, and add N when the corn needs the extra boost. The seeds lay dormant until fall so it won't compete with the corn.
Yes sunnibel7, it was completely weed free last summer. I mowed it after it seeded and I just left it in place to keep weeds from sprouting. If I had tilled it under or moved it then I probably would have had the weeds come back.
planatus, My plan is to just lay off rows with my tractor which will only clear about 10" of clover out per row. Enough to keep the clover at bay until the corn is up and going. I may loose some from crushing with the tractor tires. Then I'm thinking the clover will shade the soil around the corn helping to keep moisture in.
You are right about the bees when it blooms, there are probably at least 1,000 + bees come to feed on it!
yukkuri_kame, I think you may be right. And I don't think this will work as planned.
I decided to mow it first. Because it was growing like crazy! I used my leaf vac so that I could compost it and I cut it down really low several weeks ago.
I laid off the rows and planted the corn a little over a week ago. The clover was growing back fast. The corn is up but the clover is a foot high and blooming again!
Even though it is an annual, it springs back! I thought that mowing it would kill it!
Its shading the corn and has actually grown over the top of it.
I left enough space between rows so that I can mow between them. We had heavy rain this weekend and I will mow it again as soon as it is dry enough.
But from the looks of things, I probably will have to plow it all under and plant again.
Thank goodness I used old corn seed instead of the $12 a pound stuff!
Normal, do nothing. They're a form of trichome if it interests you. After you harvest them they rub off easily. In stores they have been handled or moved dozens of times and largely fall off before you ever see them. That and some varieties are spineless.
I like it. How about posting on the thread linked below. I'm sure readers of that thread would be interested.
Jim
Here is a link that might be useful: Show Me Your Trellis
Can't help with the cross-border issues. AFAIK most just mail them in a standard envelope through the regular mail.
As for disinfection, there are several methods. The FAQ here on How to Save tomato seeds covers one and "disinfect seeds" search on the Tomato forum will pull up discussions about others.
Personally I use the 1:10 chlorine bleach misting method after the seeds have been fermented and just before they are spread out to air dry.
Dave
Hopefully you didn't leave the dome cover on them all this time. The plugs in biodomes are not intended to be used until garden planting time unless you don't start your seeds until just a couple of weeks before then. They are intended to be transplanted to containers of potting mix once germinated.
You can learn much more about this and the issues of the bio domes over on the Growing from Seed forum here.
Dave
If the plants are large enough and the weather suitable, I likely would plant them out where they will grow...to save the roots...if you can extract the roots without breaking them off. If you can't get the roots out, you could cut up the starter cells.
The nooses... Are those water wicks?
No.. Lol. I watched a you tube video explaining how to grow them vertically so you can fit more plants in a smaller space. It said to use soft thick rope and tie the stem to a heavy tall garden stake every few inches. Once you harvest zucchini, cut off any leaves below the fruit line and move the rope up. It's working pretty well actually. I'll take a picture of the full plant when I get home from work tonight. :)