23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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MrClint

I think if I were to branch out from greens with another bag it would be with herbs. Something like parsley or cilantro.

    Bookmark   November 24, 2014 at 10:38PM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

Herbs like well drained soil in general. But you can experiment.

Try water cress .

Seysonn

    Bookmark   November 26, 2014 at 12:34AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Seems to be a common issue as there have been many posts here this year with pics of lots of crosses. Just no way to know what they are given how easily squash cross.

Dave

    Bookmark   November 24, 2014 at 7:52PM
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weirdtrev

The first picture is definitely a green striped cushaw, not a overly healthy one, but a cushaw all the same. Cushaw are Cucurbita agyrosperma, this species has relatively few varieties compared to the other pumpkins species and interspecific crosses are less common, if possible at all, depending on what species you have growing.

The second picture you posted looks like some form of an unknown cross. Looks like Cucurbita pepo to me though.

    Bookmark   November 25, 2014 at 11:35AM
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shayneca25(8)

To answers your question: The source are other insects, their parents. If you bought your soil it is highly unlikely your soil was infested with insects.

If you dont want any critters in your soil, beneficial or not. There are a couple of things you can do.
1. Put your bed over lawn wire. This also prevents moles and gophers from getting in there.
2. Put a bird bath near your garden and a small bird feeder. But be prepared the birds may choose to eat your vieggies and there are several ways to prevent that.
3. Get diatomaceous earth and follow the directions.

Less than 10% of the bugs you see in your garden are destructive. Identification is crucial. If they just gross you out and prevent you from enjoying your garden, which is the main point to all your work then get rid of them. Just keep in mind no insects at all = more work and less production.

    Bookmark   November 25, 2014 at 8:04AM
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vedabeeps

Beneficial nematodes were really helpful in my garden and milky spore is another option for grub control. Asian beetles are a huge problem here, the University is studying it right now but unfortunately, the traps they are working on have an attractant and they're putting them all over the neighborhoods so more are attracted to the area and find they like gardens better than the traps. What they're after is nice fluffy moist garden soil to lay their eggs in.

The grubs themselves aren't usually a problem but when they reach the numbers that we see in this area (1 to 2 DOZEN per shovel full at times,) they ARE a problem because they kill plants by disrupting the roots. I let them stay in my compost where they are great workers but screen them out before adding it to my beds.

    Bookmark   November 25, 2014 at 10:09AM
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Peter1142(Zone 6b)

Yes, it is the carrots that most surprised me, I read they tolerate "light frosts".

    Bookmark   November 24, 2014 at 8:29PM
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barrie2m_

The problem with peas is that the pods become mottled and unsellable after a freeze so the cited temperature data become mute points. If you want to pick for sales you better protect the crop from freezing temperatures.

    Bookmark   November 25, 2014 at 7:59AM
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ceth_k(11)

I would have to agree with Dave. Every single crop that was listed can easily take up all that space in your garden with just a very small number of the plant, and the garden will be far easier to take care of that way. Two crop types are the maximum for that garden size imho. One annual and one perennial. Or maybe one more annual, top.

This post was edited by ceth_k on Mon, Nov 17, 14 at 7:06

    Bookmark   November 16, 2014 at 10:25PM
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chickenfreak(7)

Re: "Two crop types are the maximum for that garden size imho."

I'm befuddled. I've had community garden plots in the past, and people regularly grow ten or fifteen different things in their 12X25 plot. Sure, it would be less work to fill the OP's whole 95X35 space with raspberries, or tomatoes, or make it all one pumpkin patch, but I don't see it as actually impractical to grow several things.

This post was edited by chickenfreak on Mon, Nov 24, 14 at 2:12

    Bookmark   November 24, 2014 at 2:09AM
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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

I put squash out at the end of the driveway with a free sign and it's gone each day! Nancy

    Bookmark   November 21, 2014 at 9:22PM
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glib(5.5)

Since the PO is interested in beet krauts, let me mention that unlike cabbage krauts they need water to be topped a few times to keep them under.

    Bookmark   November 22, 2014 at 7:08PM
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glib(5.5)

Maybe for cardoon soup. Not for fresh eating. Keep them frozen. Last year the same happened to me and I went cardoon-free. This year I picked them early with root and dirt and stashed them in the garage. There is a veritable jungle in there.

    Bookmark   November 20, 2014 at 9:36AM
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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

I planted beets between two rows of artichokes this year. The beets did well, the artichokes did nothing. At least I got something harvestable from the bed.

Rodney

    Bookmark   November 19, 2014 at 2:12PM
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charlieboring

Last year my artichokes did nothing either, but I realized that my mistake was not to veralize them. I am told that artichokes need to experience 190-210 hours of temperatures below 50 degrees in order to induce blooming. Next year I intend to ensure that theat is done.

    Bookmark   November 19, 2014 at 2:47PM
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emorems0(PA - 6a)

No, lol... I meant 14 degrees F... apparently my lack of sleep and mommy brain got to me last night. I brought my two squash in this morning when I went out to defrost the chickens' water... the squash were frozen solid. I'm hoping I can cut them in half and bake them today without ill effects.

    Bookmark   November 19, 2014 at 9:35AM
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glib(5.5)

yes, you will be able to bake them.

    Bookmark   November 19, 2014 at 9:45AM
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Deeby

This is a very interesting and informative thread to follow. I know it has veered off from the original question but sometimes that's a good thing !

    Bookmark   November 18, 2014 at 8:25PM
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prairiemoon2 z6 MA

I agree, Deeby, and as long as a thread follows the natural progression of the conversation, it works. That kind of a thread does seem to develop what you describe. It's not like we all started talking about woodworking. [g]

    Bookmark   November 19, 2014 at 6:20AM
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wertach zone 7-B SC

Wow! I would gladly sell 100 seeds for $5 and free shipping! ;)

    Bookmark   November 18, 2014 at 5:17PM
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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

Imn-F777- I would have thought that a spammer would try to make their post a little less obvious. Guess I was wrong.

wertach- If I had the room for corn (and if it was allowed on gardenweb) I might take you up on that offer. haha

Rodney

    Bookmark   November 18, 2014 at 5:44PM
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grubby_AZ Tucson Z9

Were all the colors dent? There's a lot of blue out there, from pastels all the way to solid indigo. Best guess would be Mayo (Tuxpeño or Batchi).

"FWIW I'll probably only replant the white ones just because the end product is easier to work with."

Don't be too surprised if you get the same variations you got before.

Here is a link that might be useful: Pictures

    Bookmark   November 17, 2014 at 9:16PM
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Peter1142(Zone 6b)

If the ground will probably be freezing very soon I would personally wait until spring. You would probably find a lot of different opinions on the best timing, if the board was more active.

    Bookmark   November 17, 2014 at 8:18AM
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Edzell

Thanks Jean & Peter.

I already decided to wait for spring to transplant my asparagus. We've abruptly had several consecutive nights approaching -10C and the (raised) bed doesn't get much daytime sun this time of year.

Besides, "Do nothing is always an option." :)

    Bookmark   November 17, 2014 at 10:24AM
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braidwood13

Nhbabs,

Good questions and comments all around. We bought this house a few months ago. I just built the beds and haven't grown in them yet. All of my gardening experience comes from containers on my apartment patio. I grew up with a gardening father and couldn't wait to get started on my own.

Like my father, most experienced gardeners tend to go for more potatoes, onionions beans etc that provide more real food year round. I guess I am guilty of just picking "cool" or "weird" veggies to be different. Seed catalogues and websites can be addicting. It would be hard for me to get rid of any of my plant choices... although I might cut down on a few to increase the onion/basil output.

I do not have the experience to know exactly how much room each plant takes up but I will take your advice and keep track of the weekly progress with pics. Crop rotation was something I thought I coukr figure out on the fly. A's long as I successively sew the greens to keep them young I could replant some in the fall... they hopefully will be in the shade of the trellis.
I will have to keep the fabrics in mind to increase the season.

Borage in there was Just to attract good bugs... maybe I dont need that .
My yard is fenced in and u didnt see many bees in the yard so I was hoping to attract what I could...

In conclusion, I need to learn and experience more before I can realistically have a full season plan. I would just be guessing beyond this layout.

Thanks forth response.

    Bookmark   November 17, 2014 at 8:16AM
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braidwood13

Nhbabs,

Good questions and comments all around. We bought this house a few months ago. I just built the beds and haven't grown in them yet. All of my gardening experience comes from containers on my apartment patio. I grew up with a gardening father and couldn't wait to get started on my own.

Like my father, most experienced gardeners tend to go for more potatoes, onionions beans etc that provide more real food year round. I guess I am guilty of just picking "cool" or "weird" veggies to be different. Seed catalogues and websites can be addicting. It would be hard for me to get rid of any of my plant choices... although I might cut down on a few to increase the onion/basil output.

I do not have the experience to know exactly how much room each plant takes up but I will take your advice and keep track of the weekly progress with pics. Crop rotation was something I thought I coukr figure out on the fly. A's long as I successively sew the greens to keep them young I could replant some in the fall... they hopefully will be in the shade of the trellis.
I will have to keep the fabrics in mind to increase the season.

Borage in there was Just to attract good bugs... maybe I dont need that .
My yard is fenced in and u didnt see many bees in the yard so I was hoping to attract what I could...

In conclusion, I need to learn and experience more before I can realistically have a full season plan. I would just be guessing beyond this layout.

Thanks forth response.

    Bookmark   November 17, 2014 at 10:24AM
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grandad_2003(9A/sunset 28)

Good question. I see that you are in climate zone 9 as am I. But where are you located? It might help to answer your question.

In our South Louisiana area we are typically setting plants in December for a late April/early May harvest. Not sure what the plants you described would do if they were currently in our garden.

This post was edited by grandad on Mon, Nov 17, 14 at 11:35

    Bookmark   November 16, 2014 at 6:45PM
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