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Since these are container plants the odds heavily favor nutritional deficiency but there is no way to know that with much more info from you. Like what product, how much and how often are you feeding them? Indeterminate varieties in containers sized such as in your pics would require weekly feedings of some form of supplement.
The Brandywine leaf in the last pic looks like Early Blight as it has the bulls-eye patterns. The leaf roll on the Stupice is called Physiological Tomato Leaf Roll (you can Google that term) and is caused by inconsistent soil moisture levels - wet/dry/wet/dry. Once the leaves roll like that it doesn't go away but you can prevent it from getting worse by changing your watering regimen to try to stabilize the soil moisture.
The first 2 pics look like Bacterial Speck/Spot rather than Early Blight and both bacterial and fungus diseases ( like EB) have the same treatment - remove all affect foliage from the plant ASAP and dispose of it. Then begin a regularly scheduled fungicide spraying program with a fungicide (copper based for bacterial issues). It won't cure it, just slow it down.
The Sun Gold looks like it is getting root bound in the pot and the yellowing leaves are most likely from the over-watering that results from growing a variety with a huge root ball in a small container. Sun Gold is notorious for being a huge plant with a huge ball and to do well it need a HUGE container of 20 gallons minimum.
Hope this helps some. There are numerous other discussions running here now, especially on the Growing Tomatoes forum, from folks with the same problems as you so there is a lot to learn from reading through those discussions too.
Dave

In general, your plant is sick...for some reasons.
Like what dave said, take off those affected leaves, dispose them properly, apply the chemical treatment.
Here are some tips though to help:
* Eradicate those white flying thingys if there are - the aphids. They are vectors or carriers of fungus as well as virus. The fluid of those are sweet for molds to form...fungus.
* If you have some marigold, try incorporating it in your garden...they attract lady bugs as well as other beneficial insects. The type of insects that will feed on those destructive insects - aphids is just one.
* Leaf curling as shown in the picture - apply fertilizer that is high on phosphorus and potassium and less on Nitrogen.
* As your tomatoes are fruiting, try adding some calcium for its diet. This to help avoid fruit rotting.
* Do take precautions when applying those inorganic fertilizers, the NPK types. Plants love it so much that they produce more aromatic amino acids too. This type of acid is responsible in attracting insects.
* Lastly, make your plant healthy so it won't be badly damaged by fungus, bacteria as well as virus. Moreover, it wont be weak during extreme conditions...diligence too is needed - cleaning its surrounding environment (dead leaves, no smoking, etc...)

About the only thing I can offer as an explanation is the plant is stressed and so it is aborting its blooms and fruit. First it is in a container which is already stressful, the container appears smallish and it appears to only be about 2/3 full of potting mix so the plant could be rootbound.
The stress could also be from over-watering or inconsistent watering, poorly draining soil that causes root rot, or from nutrient issues like too much nitrogen fertilizer or too little phosphorous.
So what have you been feeding it (eggshells and banana peel provide nothing in the way of nutrients that the plant can use) and how often, what is the container size and what is it filled with?
Dave

Thank you for you reply. The plant is in a 2 foot wide pot so I think it is large enough for just 1 Plant. The plant it self is very green without any disease. A real stress plant would have bugs n disease on it. I agree i could put more potting mix in it.
soil is quiet well drain. I place 12 dry and polarized egg shells n banana peels in it. Since polarized means that it in very tiny particles that no matter how slow the Ca, K n P is usable there should be sufficient enough in that large quantities.
The potting mix is actually soil with 50% soil 50% vermicompost. From my understanding worm casting is very potent and in that large quantities shouldn't need any more extra added nutrient.

(Edit to say: second generation hybrid) I think mine is a hybrid. It is a volunteer transplanted early from my compost pile... All the fruits have a distinct color seperation. We use it like Zuccini and it tastes pretty good too. Very prolific and grows fast like zukes.

Tromboncino will wilt on hot days if trellised. However, if the vines (or at least part of them ) are allowed to touch the ground, new roots will form at the leaf nodes. These additional roots will improve plant vigor, and can substantially increase the yield. I usually allow my tromboncino to trail for that reason. Provided that you have space for the long vines to run, that might be the best solution. Chances are there would still be some wilting on the hottest days, but not as pronounced as that in the photo.

From Cornell
- bacterial spot, tomatoes
-----
4) Spray plants with streptomycin before transplanting. After transplanting, apply a mixture of mancozeb plus copper before the occurrence of disease. Protection is most needed during early flowering and fruit setting periods.


Like Stu said - any length but 6-8" is average. More importantly - "not good" how? Bitter? That is a watering issue. Too little water or inconsistent soil moisture levels. Your watering regimen needs adjustment.
Also keep in mind that there are probably 50 different varieties of "burpless cukes" so the specific variety can make a difference - we need the variety name.
Dave


I suggest you do a search on this forum, e.g. type "watermelon ready to pick" in the search box....You'll find lots of great information.
But in short, the "generic" signs are:
1) a drab/dull skin appearance begins to show on the melon,
2) tendrils closest to the melon will be brown (...in my case for my AU Producer melons the tendrils should be dried up),
3) belly of the melon begins to yellow,
4) a hollow sound when thumped (this one is a bit tricky... a real hollow sound can indicate an overripe melon.
5) some say press on the nose end of the melon; it should give a little (but FWIW, I have not found this to be a reliable test)
6) when the curly stem (shown in your photo opposite the melon) turns brown,
7) perhaps there were other indicators (but I believe these were the main ones).
Not all melons have the same ripeness indicators... In my case for my AU Producer melon I go by 1 and 2, and 3, and 6, and sometimes 4...

I live near boston. I'm not an expert tomato grower and I don't have a quick fix, but I thought I'd write down my observations from this year for comparison.
This year I planted tomatoes in the ground and in 10 gal pots. I planted cherry and slicing tomatoes. Tomatoes were started indoors from commercial seed.
The pots were filled with high quality loose compost. I am guessing that because of loose soil and warmer soil than ground and more sheltered conditions from wind, the potted toms developed more quickly than tomato plants in the ground. Potted tomatoes are bigger.
This year I must have watered tomatoes in the ground only 4 times lightly in the long bouts between rain, and leaves did not yellow. I expect to water more often In july and august maybe. Nice sheets of tropical rain last night though.
I've watered the pots often as the soil would dry up quickly, even though I know the general warning of not watering too often. I also did get yellow leaves in potted plants. Thanks to a couple of posts here I looked more closely at the soil humidity. What I thought was a good watering was too fast and did not really drench soil well enough. I am now at the conclusion that I should water less often and more thoroughly... a slow long watering that would cover more soil area and would also as a result be less frequent. Or water from beneath. But I have not put this into a practice long enough to see the effects.
I noticed this year how much of a difference nutrients make. Though i added compost and fertilizer in the fall and spring, my grounded tomatoes were uniformly paler than potted toms in end of June. After adding a few inches of high quality compost, the grounded toms a week later looked considerably more healthy.
I hope this helps. Even though the experts here keep repeating themselves, it's good to experience their advice, to take notice and be proactive with tweaking growing conditions. I don't how bad your yellow leaves are but for me it doesn't seem to slow down the tomato plants too much to call it quits.

Transplanting of mature producing plants usually doesn't work. But what would you loose?) Only thing is, I wouldn't put them in the pots. I would use burlap, or even plastic sheet. Dig the plant out with as much soil as possible,place on the sheet and wrap. Then move and try planting without much disturbing root ball. No pot will hold roots grown in the bed.

You can tell male from female. Females will have a nice "round bump" right behind the flower in the shape of the future pumpkin, squash, watermelon etc. and the male will just have the stem. The plant will start with one or the other. Usually, male flowers but this year, my blue hubbard decided to put out females first. It happens. In case the bees aren't doing their job for some reason, you can hand pollinate. Here's a link on how to do it: http://green-change.com/2009/06/04/hand-pollinating-pumpkin-and-squash/. Also includes photos of male and female flowers. I do this with all the cucurbits I grow if I can tell the bees haven't been around. HTH


be careful of fertilizers...plants that use them would produce a lot of aromatic amino acids. This can attract insects. Moreover, using a fertilizer with high N content would result to lush vegetation and less fruiting.
Try changing your soil pH by putting baking soda solution. Say 1 tablespoon per liter. If it is a fungal infection, the solution can kill the fungus. On the other hand, for viral and bacterial matters, try using a copper based agri grade solution.

njitgrad, Sounds like something I should do, also considering adding some more raised beds. I do have some where I grow Cilantro, Arugula, herbs, lettuce, leeks. We raised our potato plants but only 6 or 8 plants came up. Even in raised areas, they rotted before they came up. I have many cabbage and broccoli starts but can't get them in the ground.
Two nights ago we had a stream running from our neighbor's property and pond thru our property and pond and continued down to the next property and pond. The engineers had fashioned the ponds to flow from one property to another so every Spring we have crawdads, etc. going from one area to another. The grass carp especially like these "little floods".





Voles would be my first guess too but mice will also do it and rabbits (depending on how much is above ground). I suppose some grubs would be a possibility but it would take a bunch of grubs and you should be able to see them.
Voles. This year they ate all my summer carrots, half of my chard (roots) and about 1/3 of my parsley, again the roots. They are the WORST garden pest you can have, and good luck trying to get rid of them.