23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
it seems like they would grow an awful lot in a month and a half. and take up so much room.. that would be quite a few 6 inch pots......ah well prob will try anyway.. why buy "starts" when I got "sprouts" from my organically grown ones..... Duh me..... thankyall
If the stems get too long, you can cut off 6-inch tips and root them to increase your supply of slips and control the size of the plants. I do grow mine in pots, but a friend over the ridge, where it's warmer, puts his sprouting sweet potatoes in a bucket of damp sand and keeps it in a warm place. He gets really nice slips this way.
1. pallets are not usually constructed of pressure treated wood. It would be quite unusual to find any made with it.
2. the methods used to make pressure treated wood available to the public no longer contain arsenic (since 2002 laws).
3. painting and sealing is your option but I would hazard the guess that most do not do it. I wouldn't as it not only makes the project much more work and time intensive and is strictly appearance oriented, not functional. Plus it may increase the rot rate of the wood by not letting the wood dry out when wet. I think you'll find you'll will have enough other issues with using pallets without putting all that work in up-front. It is one of those recent trends that looks easy in theory but turns out to be more complicated in actual practice.
Hope this helps.
Dave
Yeah, normally the term "community garden" means lots of different folks will be using it to garden and each of them decides what they will plant in it. All the garden manager has to do is divide it into plots and oversee the usage and the access to water.
If this is instead your garden and you are growing for all the employees then you can plant whatever you wish after a survey of them as to what they would be interested in eating. For example why grow radishes or winter squash if no one wants to eat them? :)
The size would limit you on some crops as they would need much more room to produce much unless you wanted just 1 or 2 vegetables growing there. But tomatoes, green beans, leafy greens like spinach and lettuce, green salad onions, cucumbers, yellow and green summer squash, hot and sweet peppers are always popular.
You could divide the plot into 4-6 plots and treat each as a separate bed, 1 for each crop you pick, and that way you can do succession planting (ie: plant the beans in the lettuce plot after the lettuce begins to bolt from the heat).
Hope this helps.
Dave
I helped a friend plan a garden at a Kaiser Medical facility. It was not a community garden, but a garden showing how many plants could actually be grown in a back yard in this area!
I would also check out some community gardens in your area to see what they are growing, also ask the employees what they want and what is available in your area! Nancy
What are you planning on growing? Some plants, like tomatoes, are very sensitive to juglone. Some others, like forsythia and daffodils, are not as sensitive. I grow everything in large containers (20+ gallons) because my small yard is surrounded by six black walnut trees. Twice in the past 10 years I accidentally included compost that had a small amount of walnut leaves and twigs in the mix for my tomato plants, and had plants completely collapse from walnut toxicity.
Also, from what I have read from university studies, the toxicity from the living trees extends wider than the drip line, which can be 30-40 feet from the trunk. And it can take a year of composting to remove the juglone. From personal experience, I can't grow impatiens within 50 feet of a walnut tree, and I have seen other sensitive plants fail to thrive in that same range.
I'm with Floral on this one, into the compost bins it goes. I use jute hung from the top of my bean poles, anchored in the ground with a wire staple. pull the staple at the end of the season, save for another year, gather up all the dead stuff and haul it all off to be composted, makes for a quick cleanup. I like using jute because it disappears amongst the foliage, doesn't stand out like a sore thumb.
Annette
Put them in the fridge, in the dark. They may get long and yucky looking, but they will store. I just keep picking out the ones that have sprouted and plant them each time. I plant sets for green onions too. That reminds me, I need to buy extra sets now and put them in the walk in cooler.
To answer your other question: Yes, that bug (listed as a "springtail") looks very similar to the bugs in my garden, except that in addition to white, some that I've seen are grey or appear spotted (it's hard to tell when they're so tiny).
Are springtail bugs good, bad, or indifferent?
The grey ones I figured are just a different(molting) stage of the springtails.
Spotted? Check out pics of Carpet beetles -- I've seen some of those around also.
Here's what UC website says about springtails...
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74136.html
Kevin
I live in Texas and 3 years ago when having some remodeling done on my home termites were discovered and well 6.000.00 later to repair the terrible damage to the structure of the house. Then 1000.00 to have Terminix to come and surround the house with bait stations. After reading that this barrier might be just a waste does anyone out there know what I can drop into those traps myself or if it is even possible to do so? I haven't opened one up yet to see exactly what is down in those traps. I just wanted to find a way to do this myself or is spending another 300.00 this year to have them come and fill the traps again worth it. Or is that all a waist of money????
If you have sub-terrainian termites the bait stations work very well. Did you get a warranty from Terminix? If so you need to pay them the annual renewal. They only add baits to the stations that have termite activity, otherwise it is just pieces of soft wood. If the warranty is not a issue go to Doityourselfpestcontrol.com or doyourownpestcontrol.com You can purchase the baits from them at a good savings. This system will work for the garden beds also.
Good luck!
Craig
Thanks Digdirt! I've been looking at the after care and it seems to very a lot. Some people say to plant them on a mound to separate the roots and then gradually add soil other say it doesn't matter. Some say to mulch after, other say its not necessary. Seems like a large variation in what people found successful.
Hey Brook I just checked the DeBruyn website and they're selling 2 year old Jersey Knight roots 10 for $2.95. That is wicked cheap compared to everyone else! You said you had good luck with these? The prices is so low it kind of scares me.
I market farm and buy as much in bulk as I possibly can. I've never been disappointed w/DeBruyn--and I order seeds and stock from dozens of different suppliers each year. The roots I got from them last year were as good as any I've gotten elsewhere. Nourse probably has the finest roots, but there's always the dinks thrown in as well. The DeBruyn roots were very uniform--if not a little small. Not to get off topic, but I bought the best shallots from DeBruyn last year I've ever planted. I don't know the variety, but they outyielded anything I've ever planted before. To this day, they are still in perfect condition. I reserved ten lbs of them to plant this year.
I have to say that while I am skeptical that this particular spot can be used for any vegetable gardening, I was *stunned* to see a neighbor of mine growing huge, lush collards in about 80% shade. They're really pretty remarkable plants, and I intend to try growing some next year.
Thanks for all the feedback. I am in zone 8A (Dallas). This location is towards East side of my home. My home is facing South. It gets some light during summer. I think because of this light issue, there are lot more weeds in this area. I will check it out to put in a concrete stones to help weeds issue. I am not able to landscape this area.
Thanks
If you can find your compost pile under the snow, I doubt it is frozen. Even a small pile generates enough heat to keep it from freezing in most climates. If compost piles froze, you'd never find any worms in them. If you care about the worms, I'd crack open the pile and throw them in.
I have also let my chickens free-range in my garden. Once the garden is in full swing, they usually didn't do enough damage to the plants to kill them (though I know that is possible). Of course, it's also related to the number of chickens and size of garden. But what I do find is that with the chickens roaming around, I find less of the icky, squirmy bugs or insects around my plants, and just more of the bugs that I like having around. I have also found termites in some rotting wood and once I exposed them, the chickens made short work of that colony.
And I could swear that once having chickens around free-ranging, the mosquito population seemed to be much less also.
"I'm not sure about right there together, growing from pretty much the same spot, but I've read that if they grow a bit apart but have "leaves touching", it is a good way to grow peppers."
I can vouch for the benefits of that philosophy, for most peppers. Peppers enjoy humidity, and close spacing results in a tight canopy which traps soil moisture. It also reduces sun scald. For all but the largest plants, I use 12" between rows, with plants 24" apart in a staggered pattern. This results in about 15" each way between plants, and C. annuum peppers (which includes sweet peppers & most fleshy hot peppers) thrive at that spacing. Keep in mind that is in the ground, not in pots.
As for using 2 or more plants in a pot, that depends upon the size of the container. I would not recommend planting more than one tomato in a pot, regardless of size (unless you are planting in a large barrel or something similar). The only exception might be currant tomatoes; I've grown more than one in a container, to intentionally stunt their otherwise huge vines.
Pepper plants are more tolerant of being closely spaced, and you might be able to plant 2-3 in a large pot, but I would space them evenly. I've had good luck with spacing smaller hot peppers this way, but bell peppers are not as tolerant.
To separate small plants without damage, immerse the soil in water until it has become semi-liquid, and shake the container while pulling gently. Unless the soil was tightly packed, the individual plants will pull out easily. I use that technique to separate nests of onion seedlings.
So if I have 8 feet of row, I should try and plant 10 plants in a wide row? I am planting Ace which are small plants, and Biscayne not sure how big those are.