23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

Sun damage. Tissue dried out. Perhaps a brief episode of an extra bright and/or extra dry, day.

    Bookmark     last Thursday at 10:52PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
galinas(5B)

Agree, definitely sun damage.

    Bookmark     last Friday at 3:46AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
piersonse

Thanks tishtosh - good to know. I just found your post from a few years ago - great information.

    Bookmark     last Thursday at 11:34AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

In my area, we've been having problems with this sort of contamination for at least 5 years. None so far this year but it's very early in the growing season for us. Warm weather crops aren't in as yet.

When you obtain the manure, you can -- and should -- ask about any herbicides used on the farm or by the farmer.
But you need to know that some farmers won't have a specific answer because they have hired a pest control company/person to do their spraying for the crop/pasture. Even so, the farmer can request that info.

Okay, I first saw the info about managing soil where contaminated OM was used in WSU info about clopyralid contamination. (Clopyralid & Aminopyralid are very similar herbicides in their action & persistence.) http://puyallup.wsu.edu/soilmgmt-old/Clopyralid.html .

I don't see it now, but as I recall, the gist was to irrigate & cultivate actively through the season. Growing a "grass" (corn) would do the same thing and, IMO, make better use of the water.

- - - - -
I thought I was well informed about contaminated OM, but I hadn't come across some which has been added to this thread.

So, here's a plea to PLEASE include URLs for the info you're turning up. Doing so helps us all.

    Bookmark     last Thursday at 11:33PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jeanwedding(6 ky)

Hey Jim's how about posting a pic of uour wire and caed garden areas.>>>Thanks

    Bookmark     last Wednesday at 8:52PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
westminstress

So I covered my peas with tulle and did not trim. So far so good, they are starting to flower! Now do I need to remove the tulle for pollination in order to get peas?

    Bookmark     last Thursday at 9:06PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
tishtoshnm Zone 6/NM

Hard to say without a picture as there are different patterns of yellowing and they mean different things. I will say that putting potatoes out in Albuquerque just 3-4 weeks ago sounds rather late. Admittedly though, New Mexico is not conducive to potato growing but it is fun to keep trying.

    Bookmark     last Thursday at 8:31PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
LoneJack Zn 6a, KC

Dave - I have never used row covers but I think I might get some this year for my fall broccoli because the cabbage moths usually find them and start laying eggs before I even have them hardened off.

    Bookmark     last Thursday at 8:37AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Ohiofem(6a Ohio)

Many tomato growers do advocate preventive spraying for fungal diseases. Chlorothalinil or Daconil is considered most effective, but I am nervous about using it. So I have used actinovate, neem oil and serenade with some success to slow down early blight. I haven't had problems with other diseases, so I don't generally use fungicides on anything but tomatoes.

    Bookmark     last Thursday at 6:02PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
noinwi

I haven't grown corn in a long time but I would use them. A friend of mine used to pre-sprout her corn between damp dish towels. Some of them were inches long at planting time and grew fine. JME

    Bookmark     last Thursday at 3:15PM
Sign Up to comment
spots on lettuceWhat would be causing these spots?
Posted by bad_wolf_85 last Thursday
3 Comments
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
bad_wolf_85

Ok thanks, would these spots make the leaves inedible, or is it just cosmetic?

    Bookmark     last Thursday at 8:12AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
weirdtrev

It is only cosmetic

    Bookmark     last Thursday at 11:13AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
littlemonkeys3(5a)

I couldn't understand why I've had luck with planting onion at the end of May and I didn't think there would be that much difference between our zones, but I found out the reason why.

"...the US zones are based entirely on average minimum temperature, and the zones are not subdivided. The Canadian index is far more complicated, and is based on a complicated mathematical formula that takes into account snowfall, wind, rainfall, the warmest month, etc."

From a different site

"The hardiness zones are informative: the extremes of winter cold are a major determinant of whether a plant species can be cultivated outdoors at a particular location; however, the USDA hardiness zones have a number of drawbacks if used without supplementary information.

The zones do not incorporate summer heat levels into the zone determination; thus sites which may have the same mean winter minima, but markedly different summer temperatures, will be accorded the same hardiness zone."

Of course I am also in a slightly cooler zone so I am sure that is the biggest factor now after hearing you say it's way to late. The ground is still frozen in April here half the time. We just had 0c temps on Friday, last year had snow on Mother's day and killing frost on Sept 1st, year before frost at the beginning of June. The old couple I buy my hay from said they never do seeds and almost plant in June because they've had frost in middle of June here. Luckily I haven't seen that yet, and hope I never do. I was devastated enough to go from middle of October frost dates for a 5b zone to early September for 5a. It was a shocker that first gardening season for sure. We do also have a bit of a micro climate here with a almost 50 foot elevation level between the upper and lower garden so that could be part of the reason since this is the first year I've had onions in the upper garden we'll see how they'll do. So far the sets have grown 8 inches in about 2 weeks with three frosts in that time.

With all that jibber jabber said, I'd still much rather prefer a pearl onion to bitter carrots. Only reason I put some seeds in now was for the livestock. I guess it's a preference thing though.

    Bookmark     last Thursday at 8:51AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Peter (6b SE NY)

I grew carrots in the summer last year and they tasted great.

USDA zone is really totally irrelevant info for the vast majority of vegetable gardening.

    Bookmark     last Thursday at 9:45AM
Sign Up to comment
What is this on my cucumber plant?
Posted by bad_wolf_85 last Thursday
1 Comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Bug eggs. A close up of the eggs themselves would help narrow down the list but while they are usually more numerous and in tighter clusters, the color is correct for striped cucumber beetle. Wrong color for ladybugs.

Dave

    Bookmark     last Thursday at 8:21AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
galinas(5B)

it can be just reaction to a hot sun - check if it gets better in the evening

    Bookmark     last Wednesday at 8:03PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ccabal(7)

I think your right... This morning the plant looked better and the leaves seemed fuller.

    Bookmark     last Thursday at 8:02AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

My indeterminates are more than five feet tall and (with regard to the trellis they're on) sort of going off the rails. So I will top, and look forward to getting more suckers below, although there isn't a lot more room down below, as the plants are very full. As to limiting production, I regard it as a minor sacrifice in keeping the plants somewhat contained.

    Bookmark     May 24, 2015 at 6:21AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Tim Givemeenergy

1) pruning tomatoes allows better air circulation leading to decreased disease instance 2) pruning tomatoes allows available light to all leaves on the bush 3) pruned tomatoes fruit 2-3 weeks before unpruned 4) pruning allows for continuous fruiting (ripening) through the season, as opposed to a large flush at the end of season 5)pruned tomatoes tend to grow larger and sweeter

Fine gardening 2012 December- "A properly pruned and supported single-stem tomato plant presents all of its leaves to the sun. Most of the sugar produced is directed to the developing fruit, since the only competition is a single growing tip. The result is large fruits that are steadily produced until frost. If more stems are allowed to develop, some of the precious sugar production is diverted from fruit to multiple growing tips. Fruit production, although slowed, never stops. The result is a nearly continuous supply of fruits throughout the season. In general, more stems means more but smaller fruits, which are produced increasingly later in the season. (This is much less applicable to determinate plants, due to their shortened growing season and better-defined fruiting period. Therefore, determinate plants require little pruning. See "Indeterminate vs. Determinate," below.)"

    Bookmark     last Thursday at 4:53AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
dave_f1 SC, USDA Zone 8a(7b)

Definitely lambsquarters. And maybe a seedling from a dill planting? I'd expect it to be all over the garden.

    Bookmark     last Wednesday at 7:47PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK

Yes - top is Chenopodium album, Lambs Quarters aka Fat Hen over here.

If the lower plant is Dill (which I don't think it is) it will smell of Dill. Does it?

    Bookmark     last Thursday at 2:36AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

Get some wood chips from a tree trimmer, then put down 4 inches. (They're often happy to have someone take the chips off their hands.)

    Bookmark     last Wednesday at 10:40PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Buy a cheapo bag of alfalfa pellets or rabbit pellets or even a cheapo 10-10-10- fertilizer and mix it in with them. Water and that will get it cooking.

Dave

1 Like    Bookmark     last Wednesday at 10:20AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
dave_f1 SC, USDA Zone 8a(7b)

I'm wondering why there would be 2,4-D residue on these leaves in the first place. If you collected the fallen leaves months afterwards, how would 2,4-D get on them if they were on the trees when it was applied? Yes, it could volatilize/drift up into the trees, but that could happen if anyone within 1/4 mile sprayed and you would never know. 2,4-D is one of the least persistent herbicides, it degrades in most soils within a month to almost undetectable levels. It's half-life is very short. The general recommendation is to wait at least 7 days after a 2,4-D spray directly to the soil before seeding that same area....since it can temporarily reduce germination. I wouldn't be concerned at all if I were in your situation, but you can worry if that's what you like to do.

    Bookmark     last Wednesday at 8:52PM
Sign Up to comment
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™