23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
Thanks Digdirt! I've been looking at the after care and it seems to very a lot. Some people say to plant them on a mound to separate the roots and then gradually add soil other say it doesn't matter. Some say to mulch after, other say its not necessary. Seems like a large variation in what people found successful.
Hey Brook I just checked the DeBruyn website and they're selling 2 year old Jersey Knight roots 10 for $2.95. That is wicked cheap compared to everyone else! You said you had good luck with these? The prices is so low it kind of scares me.
I market farm and buy as much in bulk as I possibly can. I've never been disappointed w/DeBruyn--and I order seeds and stock from dozens of different suppliers each year. The roots I got from them last year were as good as any I've gotten elsewhere. Nourse probably has the finest roots, but there's always the dinks thrown in as well. The DeBruyn roots were very uniform--if not a little small. Not to get off topic, but I bought the best shallots from DeBruyn last year I've ever planted. I don't know the variety, but they outyielded anything I've ever planted before. To this day, they are still in perfect condition. I reserved ten lbs of them to plant this year.
I have to say that while I am skeptical that this particular spot can be used for any vegetable gardening, I was *stunned* to see a neighbor of mine growing huge, lush collards in about 80% shade. They're really pretty remarkable plants, and I intend to try growing some next year.
Thanks for all the feedback. I am in zone 8A (Dallas). This location is towards East side of my home. My home is facing South. It gets some light during summer. I think because of this light issue, there are lot more weeds in this area. I will check it out to put in a concrete stones to help weeds issue. I am not able to landscape this area.
Thanks
If you can find your compost pile under the snow, I doubt it is frozen. Even a small pile generates enough heat to keep it from freezing in most climates. If compost piles froze, you'd never find any worms in them. If you care about the worms, I'd crack open the pile and throw them in.
I have also let my chickens free-range in my garden. Once the garden is in full swing, they usually didn't do enough damage to the plants to kill them (though I know that is possible). Of course, it's also related to the number of chickens and size of garden. But what I do find is that with the chickens roaming around, I find less of the icky, squirmy bugs or insects around my plants, and just more of the bugs that I like having around. I have also found termites in some rotting wood and once I exposed them, the chickens made short work of that colony.
And I could swear that once having chickens around free-ranging, the mosquito population seemed to be much less also.
Just looking at the picture from the distance of your lens, it does look like the soil is pretty wet and muddy even. Of course, it could be that you have just watered it, thinking that the curly, dry-looking leaves is because it needed more water.
Sure you can. Whether you just set them on the soil or around the outside edges on the grass or bury them somewhat is entirely your choice. Just be sure to leave access for the tiller. And if you set them with the holes up you can even plant small plants in the holes. :)
Dave
The type of grass may still send runners that will show up in your garden. Typically after you have tilled, you can at least notice the new grass more quickly. You may just need to spend time weeding through that.
At the spots where the concrete blocks are lieing, you may also want to remove the grass there, and then lay down weed blocker.
Due for a watering? How so? Because of a schedule or because the soil is dry 2 knuckles deep?
The swells and bumps you see in the leaves, especially in the first pic and on the left side in the second picture is called leaf edema and is a result of over-watering. The cells in the leaf tissue swell and deform giving the leaf a bumpy mumps-like appearance.
With peppers, since they prefer to dry out well between waterings, it is very important to determine if they actually need to be watered. Based on the photos they don't as the leaf and stem turgor is still quite stiff.
The soil surface is not a valid indication of the need for water. So stick your fingers deep into the soil first. Then, if any, doubt don't water. Peppers are far more tolerant of too little water than they are of over-watering.
In the second photo (lower left quarter) there also appears to be a bit of curl/roll of the leaf petoile (the leaf/stem junction). Any sign of aphids on the underside of the leaves? If not then I would credit and the similar rolls to the excess heat from the HID light - a small fan would help.
Sorry but I don't see any symptoms of calcium deficiency in the photos. Ca+ is normally asymptomatic in pepper leaves and only shows up in leaf tip burn and in the fruit.
Hope this helps.
Dave
edema is something the plants seem to be suffering from for sure. I have been letting the plants tell me when to water from drooping leaves and weight of the pot/soil.
I have been watering about once per week on average. as they have gotten larger they dry up faster though. I have been bottom watering, filling the tray an inch or so then dumping out excess after 15 min or so.
a fan might help edema and any burn problems from what i understand so that is a good idea.
i thought Ca deficiency because of pictures and posts on here and other forums ive googled up.
here, found one, but from the distance(look for a blue barrel on the top left). The big white pipe in it was used to fill with manure. (I hopped it will hit the barrel up in winter. Didn't happen.) I removed it and replaced with planting mix to let more space for roots. Small watering pipes are adjusted to the big one and almost invisible on this picture. 
My family built me raised beds from free or cheap used concrete blocks. The growth was amazing our 1st year. I posted some photos last spring on the accessibility forum after I broke my ankle.
Check out the winter sowing forum for an easy way to start your seeds because indoor lights & watering is a pain. Milk cartons or cake trays are easy & free!
Here is a link that might be useful: concrete raised beds
There is nothing wrong with a pH of 6.0. Many of us would give anything for a soil pH of 6.0 IF it is accurate. It would not require the addition of any lime. But was this a professional soil test or simply one of those famously unreliable home test kits?
All soil routinely tests relatively low in N, even professional soil tests, in the early spring as it vaporizes into the air over the winter. Replacement of N is easy to accomplish with any number of soil amendments.
Dave
I live in Texas and 3 years ago when having some remodeling done on my home termites were discovered and well 6.000.00 later to repair the terrible damage to the structure of the house. Then 1000.00 to have Terminix to come and surround the house with bait stations. After reading that this barrier might be just a waste does anyone out there know what I can drop into those traps myself or if it is even possible to do so? I haven't opened one up yet to see exactly what is down in those traps. I just wanted to find a way to do this myself or is spending another 300.00 this year to have them come and fill the traps again worth it. Or is that all a waist of money????
If you have sub-terrainian termites the bait stations work very well. Did you get a warranty from Terminix? If so you need to pay them the annual renewal. They only add baits to the stations that have termite activity, otherwise it is just pieces of soft wood. If the warranty is not a issue go to Doityourselfpestcontrol.com or doyourownpestcontrol.com You can purchase the baits from them at a good savings. This system will work for the garden beds also.
Good luck!
Craig