23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
I couldn't understand why I've had luck with planting onion at the end of May and I didn't think there would be that much difference between our zones, but I found out the reason why.
"...the US zones are based entirely on average minimum temperature, and the zones are not subdivided. The Canadian index is far more complicated, and is based on a complicated mathematical formula that takes into account snowfall, wind, rainfall, the warmest month, etc."
From a different site
"The hardiness zones are informative: the extremes of winter cold are a major determinant of whether a plant species can be cultivated outdoors at a particular location; however, the USDA hardiness zones have a number of drawbacks if used without supplementary information.
The zones do not incorporate summer heat levels into the zone determination; thus sites which may have the same mean winter minima, but markedly different summer temperatures, will be accorded the same hardiness zone."
Of course I am also in a slightly cooler zone so I am sure that is the biggest factor now after hearing you say it's way to late. The ground is still frozen in April here half the time. We just had 0c temps on Friday, last year had snow on Mother's day and killing frost on Sept 1st, year before frost at the beginning of June. The old couple I buy my hay from said they never do seeds and almost plant in June because they've had frost in middle of June here. Luckily I haven't seen that yet, and hope I never do. I was devastated enough to go from middle of October frost dates for a 5b zone to early September for 5a. It was a shocker that first gardening season for sure. We do also have a bit of a micro climate here with a almost 50 foot elevation level between the upper and lower garden so that could be part of the reason since this is the first year I've had onions in the upper garden we'll see how they'll do. So far the sets have grown 8 inches in about 2 weeks with three frosts in that time.
With all that jibber jabber said, I'd still much rather prefer a pearl onion to bitter carrots. Only reason I put some seeds in now was for the livestock. I guess it's a preference thing though.
My indeterminates are more than five feet tall and (with regard to the trellis they're on) sort of going off the rails. So I will top, and look forward to getting more suckers below, although there isn't a lot more room down below, as the plants are very full. As to limiting production, I regard it as a minor sacrifice in keeping the plants somewhat contained.
1) pruning tomatoes allows better air circulation leading to decreased disease instance 2) pruning tomatoes allows available light to all leaves on the bush 3) pruned tomatoes fruit 2-3 weeks before unpruned 4) pruning allows for continuous fruiting (ripening) through the season, as opposed to a large flush at the end of season 5)pruned tomatoes tend to grow larger and sweeter
Fine gardening 2012 December- "A properly pruned and supported single-stem tomato plant presents all of its leaves to the sun. Most of the sugar produced is directed to the developing fruit, since the only competition is a single growing tip. The result is large fruits that are steadily produced until frost. If more stems are allowed to develop, some of the precious sugar production is diverted from fruit to multiple growing tips. Fruit production, although slowed, never stops. The result is a nearly continuous supply of fruits throughout the season. In general, more stems means more but smaller fruits, which are produced increasingly later in the season. (This is much less applicable to determinate plants, due to their shortened growing season and better-defined fruiting period. Therefore, determinate plants require little pruning. See "Indeterminate vs. Determinate," below.)"
I'm wondering why there would be 2,4-D residue on these leaves in the first place. If you collected the fallen leaves months afterwards, how would 2,4-D get on them if they were on the trees when it was applied? Yes, it could volatilize/drift up into the trees, but that could happen if anyone within 1/4 mile sprayed and you would never know. 2,4-D is one of the least persistent herbicides, it degrades in most soils within a month to almost undetectable levels. It's half-life is very short. The general recommendation is to wait at least 7 days after a 2,4-D spray directly to the soil before seeding that same area....since it can temporarily reduce germination. I wouldn't be concerned at all if I were in your situation, but you can worry if that's what you like to do.
Thank you galinas because that is what I do best with is the plants. The plants were phenomenal. No offense jnifarm, but I don't want to go the seed route, and my question is solely about the plants, not seeds. It's worth the extra money which isn't all that much considering the harvest was truly great with the plants.
just curious... 4 inch pots....??? one plant per pot???? only time I ever bought green bean plants was this year... A guy at the Flea Mkt. had "Roma2" suposedly a bush variety.. He had four per cell pack $2 each 4 pk. He sold them to me 4 packages for $5.00. Since it was close to noon. Time most flea mkt. vendors haver packed up and gone....
I felt dumb buying them cause I have hundred of bean seeds... Mostly bush varities unfortunately... Just year before last bought several packs of Ky wondwr and some Ky white and Blue Lakes....I have only opened the KY wonders.. They do so well for me... A true blessing...
I prefer pole beans I hate bending over and they are so easy to break the stems off the plants. In my experiences.... since I have been growing green beans since 2011....
But something.. is muching on the little bean seddlins.. I know its slugs... Plus have picked off quite a few green caterpillars on my cole crops
Just my opinion.... Happy gardening ..yall
Eggplants REALLY like heat. I started my eggplants inside this year, and it took them a month to get an inch tall. I waited another month until they were two inches tall, and then I disgustedly slapped them in the ground outside where high temps were starting to get into the mid 80s and lows around 70. They took off like a shot. So depending where you are, and what the temps are like outside, you might have a chance.
I think the lesson I learned from this is that eggplant seedlings indoors need a heating pad under them.
Well, if they're "doing great", does that mean they are, say, six inches tall? If so, you aren't going to do much better by buying plants. Now, buying plants early is really the best approach, as planting tomato seeds in the ground outside is an iffy proposition. But maybe it worked for you.
The goal is to have the plants as large as possible when they're ready to go outside. But if you're just putting seeds in the ground at that time, you've lost a month of your short season.
Holes form in leaves for all sorts of reasons and 9.5 times out of 10 they are nothing to be concerned about and are just ignored.
The first pic looks like something has been munching - sails, slugs, some sort of caterpillar, - hard to say what. You just have to keep you eyes peeled and finger squish as needed.
The second and third pic is just a leaf with a small hole in it that could be from any of 100 things, even some sort of environmental damage or a bite from a beneficial bug. But it poses no problems for the plants so no need to worry about it. :)
Dave
I haven't grown corn in a long time but I would use them. A friend of mine used to pre-sprout her corn between damp dish towels. Some of them were inches long at planting time and grew fine. JME