23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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galinas(5B)

it can be just reaction to a hot sun - check if it gets better in the evening

    Bookmark     last Wednesday at 8:03PM
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ccabal(7)

I think your right... This morning the plant looked better and the leaves seemed fuller.

    Bookmark     last Thursday at 8:02AM
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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

My indeterminates are more than five feet tall and (with regard to the trellis they're on) sort of going off the rails. So I will top, and look forward to getting more suckers below, although there isn't a lot more room down below, as the plants are very full. As to limiting production, I regard it as a minor sacrifice in keeping the plants somewhat contained.

    Bookmark     May 24, 2015 at 6:21AM
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Tim Givemeenergy

1) pruning tomatoes allows better air circulation leading to decreased disease instance 2) pruning tomatoes allows available light to all leaves on the bush 3) pruned tomatoes fruit 2-3 weeks before unpruned 4) pruning allows for continuous fruiting (ripening) through the season, as opposed to a large flush at the end of season 5)pruned tomatoes tend to grow larger and sweeter

Fine gardening 2012 December- "A properly pruned and supported single-stem tomato plant presents all of its leaves to the sun. Most of the sugar produced is directed to the developing fruit, since the only competition is a single growing tip. The result is large fruits that are steadily produced until frost. If more stems are allowed to develop, some of the precious sugar production is diverted from fruit to multiple growing tips. Fruit production, although slowed, never stops. The result is a nearly continuous supply of fruits throughout the season. In general, more stems means more but smaller fruits, which are produced increasingly later in the season. (This is much less applicable to determinate plants, due to their shortened growing season and better-defined fruiting period. Therefore, determinate plants require little pruning. See "Indeterminate vs. Determinate," below.)"

    Bookmark     last Thursday at 4:53AM
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dave_f1 SC, USDA Zone 8a(7b)

Definitely lambsquarters. And maybe a seedling from a dill planting? I'd expect it to be all over the garden.

    Bookmark     last Wednesday at 7:47PM
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floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK

Yes - top is Chenopodium album, Lambs Quarters aka Fat Hen over here.

If the lower plant is Dill (which I don't think it is) it will smell of Dill. Does it?

    Bookmark     last Thursday at 2:36AM
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jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

Get some wood chips from a tree trimmer, then put down 4 inches. (They're often happy to have someone take the chips off their hands.)

    Bookmark     last Wednesday at 10:40PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Buy a cheapo bag of alfalfa pellets or rabbit pellets or even a cheapo 10-10-10- fertilizer and mix it in with them. Water and that will get it cooking.

Dave

1 Like    Bookmark     last Wednesday at 10:20AM
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dave_f1 SC, USDA Zone 8a(7b)

I'm wondering why there would be 2,4-D residue on these leaves in the first place. If you collected the fallen leaves months afterwards, how would 2,4-D get on them if they were on the trees when it was applied? Yes, it could volatilize/drift up into the trees, but that could happen if anyone within 1/4 mile sprayed and you would never know. 2,4-D is one of the least persistent herbicides, it degrades in most soils within a month to almost undetectable levels. It's half-life is very short. The general recommendation is to wait at least 7 days after a 2,4-D spray directly to the soil before seeding that same area....since it can temporarily reduce germination. I wouldn't be concerned at all if I were in your situation, but you can worry if that's what you like to do.

    Bookmark     last Wednesday at 8:52PM
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nickjoseph(5 Milwaukee, WI)

Thank you galinas because that is what I do best with is the plants. The plants were phenomenal. No offense jnifarm, but I don't want to go the seed route, and my question is solely about the plants, not seeds. It's worth the extra money which isn't all that much considering the harvest was truly great with the plants.

    Bookmark     last Tuesday at 12:09PM
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jeanwedding(6 ky)

just curious... 4 inch pots....??? one plant per pot???? only time I ever bought green bean plants was this year... A guy at the Flea Mkt. had "Roma2" suposedly a bush variety.. He had four per cell pack $2 each 4 pk. He sold them to me 4 packages for $5.00. Since it was close to noon. Time most flea mkt. vendors haver packed up and gone....

I felt dumb buying them cause I have hundred of bean seeds... Mostly bush varities unfortunately... Just year before last bought several packs of Ky wondwr and some Ky white and Blue Lakes....I have only opened the KY wonders.. They do so well for me... A true blessing...

I prefer pole beans I hate bending over and they are so easy to break the stems off the plants. In my experiences.... since I have been growing green beans since 2011....

But something.. is muching on the little bean seddlins.. I know its slugs... Plus have picked off quite a few green caterpillars on my cole crops

Just my opinion.... Happy gardening ..yall

    Bookmark     last Wednesday at 8:39PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

1/4" tall - I think I'd buy plants as that's the best way to insure some harvest. But if you have room for him, also give the little guy at least a chance.

Dave

    Bookmark     last Wednesday at 10:02AM
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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

Eggplants REALLY like heat. I started my eggplants inside this year, and it took them a month to get an inch tall. I waited another month until they were two inches tall, and then I disgustedly slapped them in the ground outside where high temps were starting to get into the mid 80s and lows around 70. They took off like a shot. So depending where you are, and what the temps are like outside, you might have a chance.

I think the lesson I learned from this is that eggplant seedlings indoors need a heating pad under them.

    Bookmark     last Wednesday at 7:30PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

I would purchase some plants just to insure a harvest. You might get lucky with the ones from seed but the odds aren't great as your season is so short.

Dave

    Bookmark     last Wednesday at 6:06PM
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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

Well, if they're "doing great", does that mean they are, say, six inches tall? If so, you aren't going to do much better by buying plants. Now, buying plants early is really the best approach, as planting tomato seeds in the ground outside is an iffy proposition. But maybe it worked for you.

The goal is to have the plants as large as possible when they're ready to go outside. But if you're just putting seeds in the ground at that time, you've lost a month of your short season.

    Bookmark     last Wednesday at 6:43PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Holes form in leaves for all sorts of reasons and 9.5 times out of 10 they are nothing to be concerned about and are just ignored.

The first pic looks like something has been munching - sails, slugs, some sort of caterpillar, - hard to say what. You just have to keep you eyes peeled and finger squish as needed.

The second and third pic is just a leaf with a small hole in it that could be from any of 100 things, even some sort of environmental damage or a bite from a beneficial bug. But it poses no problems for the plants so no need to worry about it. :)

Dave

    Bookmark     last Wednesday at 2:02PM
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0nametaken0

Thank you Dave, Ill keep an eye out, makes my mind at ease.

    Bookmark     last Wednesday at 4:12PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Maybe I'm missing something but I don't see any real problems in the pics. A few holes here and there sure, but that's no issue. Leaves get holes for all sorts of reasons.

The only hing I see that 'might' be an issue is in the first pic - the yellowing and black edges. That is usually caused by over-watering and excess nitrogen fertilizer.

If it was mites or aphids you could see them.

Dave

    Bookmark     last Wednesday at 12:23PM
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Leila Izarish

Thanks for the response! Yeah, the pictures don't really do it justice. There are splotches everywhere, like dark patches. The edges are all browning and some sections are turning black and curling. Well if its excess nitrogen, that seems like a somewhat easy fix, yeah? I am so new to gardening! Last year my crops spoiled me and were perfect. This year, anything that can go wrong (aphids, slugs, disease, etc) is happening! Yikes. :)

    Bookmark     last Wednesday at 12:47PM
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floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK

No.

    Bookmark     last Wednesday at 10:34AM Thanked by mulchwoman
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Impossible.

    Bookmark     last Wednesday at 12:24PM
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beesneeds(zone 6)

I do plan on planting in an asparagus bed next year, or maybe the year after depending on how other yard and garden projects go.

I just wanted to encourage the wild asparagus that's growing already if I can do so.

    Bookmark     last Wednesday at 10:20AM
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floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK

The fern feeds the roots so don't cut it back until it dies in the Autumn.

    Bookmark     last Wednesday at 10:33AM
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greglong5309

Thank you Dave.

Should leaf lettuce be watered more regularly than most crops, about the same, or less than most?

    Bookmark     last Wednesday at 6:30AM
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zeuspaul(9b SoCal)

I have the best luck growing lettuce throughout the summer in full sun (no shade) and with lots of daily water.

    Bookmark     last Wednesday at 9:04AM
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