23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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Peter1142(Zone 6b)

I would like to grow melons next year, I tried a regular Crenshaw this year but it just grew too slowly and the weather wasn't very cooperative. The pumpkins were turning orange and I had one tiny melon. Any other recommendations for next year? I will check out the Galia ones, thanks for the suggestion.

    Bookmark   October 7, 2014 at 11:13AM
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farmerdill

Galia's have flavor more like Honeydews and are my favorite type of melon. Passport is the earliest variety that I am aware of several days earlier than Visa. 75 day Maturity is about as fast as they get. An option is the Earli-dew honeydew melon at 80 days. The Alaska muskmelon has a 65 day DTM.

Here is a link that might be useful: dill's melons

    Bookmark   October 7, 2014 at 12:24PM
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laceyvail(6A, WV)

It's not a bell but it tastes like one and is extremely productive and quite early--Corno di Toro. I discovered it some years ago after many years of disappointing bell production.

    Bookmark   October 5, 2014 at 6:35AM
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danzeb(7a long island)

I haven't had good luck with bell peppers so I seldom grow them but this year II used free seeds. I took seeds from a beautiful yellow bell pepper bought at the supermarket. The two plants I grew had 7 peppers each, one had red and the other yellow. They were thick walled but smaller than the original. They are still flowering so if I had started them sooner I would have gotten more.

Next year I'll try some of the posted suggestions.

    Bookmark   October 7, 2014 at 9:59AM
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zeedman Zone 5 Wisconsin

Sunnibel, the growth in my garden is mostly 2-3' tall, over 6' in some places, with a lot of tall bushes & vines. If I didn't mow before tilling, the growth would just clog the tines. The flowers I allow to grow throughout the garden have some really tough stalks, especially the cleome.

    Bookmark   October 7, 2014 at 12:38AM
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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

That is very pretty! Do those self seed or do you plant them each year (the flowers)? I guess I mostly remove the bigger stuff by hand and compost it, till in the smaller stuff after its mostly brown. But my winter comes on a lot slower than yours! :)

    Bookmark   October 7, 2014 at 8:49AM
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jimla(Z6 PA)

I picked Jewel sweet potatoes yesterday and they turned out nice. I have a few plants that I planted late in the season and they are well behind those just harvested. Can I keep then buried through the winter and use them as a source of slips for next year? Will they last? Any special protections beside a thick mulch?

    Bookmark   October 6, 2014 at 12:21PM
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elisa_z5

Tom -- I think generally sweet potatoes are not very good when first dug, especially from a zone 4 or 5 garden. (in NC I've had them fresh dug and sweet.) I believe that if you cure the potatoes (80 degrees and high humidity) for a couple weeks, then store in a cool place, they will get MUCH sweeter. I actually have to keep my sweet potatoes more at room temperature after curing because if I put them in cold storage they get too sweet.

I'm glad you resurrected this thread--good info. I'm determined to grow my own slips this year -- I always end up with the mail order ones half dead before I can plant them.

    Bookmark   October 6, 2014 at 9:15PM
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Slimy_Okra(2b)

Thanks.

Glib, are fava shoots safe to eat? Do they taste similar to pea shoots?

    Bookmark   October 6, 2014 at 7:54PM
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glib(5.5)

yes and yes. I buy the cover crop favas, no point in buying expensive seeds if the greens are the same.

    Bookmark   October 6, 2014 at 9:07PM
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rayrose(8)

Sounds like it may be overly ripe and is beginning to rot.

    Bookmark   October 5, 2014 at 9:27AM
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gardener_sandy

FYI, I got replies from a couple of folks with seed companies. One suggested the possibility that it was mislabeled and was a bitter melon. I find this unlikely since they don't really look like a Sugar Baby watermelon. Another confirmed the answers here that over ripe melons can taste bitter. Also, a boron deficiency can make the melons bitter.

Thanks for your help.

Sandy

    Bookmark   October 6, 2014 at 5:21PM
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ceth_k(11)

It is good to top the plant for making it shorter and branches out more but not before it reaches certain height (approximately 10 inches tall for okra).

    Bookmark   October 6, 2014 at 2:01AM
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farmerdill

Actually I top at 4 feet.

    Bookmark   October 6, 2014 at 8:20AM
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chaman(z7MD)

Finally I have decided to over winter 4 plants from this year's garden , 2013 plant plus 3 more plants from this season.In addition to this three more plants rooted from cuttings are selected to over winter for next year - 2015.All are planted in pots to be taken in Sun room.
I hope this will produce enough peppers for us.Here is pic. of the plants selected.

    Bookmark   October 5, 2014 at 4:01PM
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pnbrown

I don't have a place warm enough. I have tried in the past but my greenhouse when it is 5 degrees outdoors at night will be close to freezing. Peppers don't go for that. Or sweet potatoes.

    Bookmark   October 6, 2014 at 7:36AM
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qbush(6, NE MA)

Wow has this been fun to read! I to was having this lack of energy for the garden work, it just seemed endless. But then I hurt my right hand. Nothing helped except staying out of the dirt, so the injury would heal. Three weeks of just watching from the sidelines and having to ask for help with everything has erased my disinterest in the garden. I just have to remember that gardening is not a race, and more is not always better.

This year I focused on less, but better, and some of it worked! We ate broccolli until we were tired of it, less green beans, but fewer tough ones. Rolling crops of beets and carrots, but blighted tomatoes. Plenty of cabbage, more cauliflower than expected, but fewer onions. Melons failed, but sweet potatoes are taking over, well actually Have taken over green house. So I guess it is always a win some lose some proposition, at least winter arrives. Unless New England weather surprises me again!

    Bookmark   October 5, 2014 at 9:40PM
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qbush(6, NE MA)

Wow has this been fun to read! I to was having this lack of energy for the garden work, it just seemed endless. But then I hurt my right hand. Nothing helped except staying out of the dirt, so the injury would heal. Three weeks of just watching from the sidelines and having to ask for help with everything has erased my disinterest in the garden. I just have to remember that gardening is not a race, and more is not always better.

This year I focused on less, but better, and some of it worked! We ate broccolli until we were tired of it, less green beans, but fewer tough ones. Rolling crops of beets and carrots, but blighted tomatoes. Plenty of cabbage, more cauliflower than expected, but fewer onions. Melons failed, but sweet potatoes are taking over, well actually Have taken over green house. So I guess it is always a win some lose some proposition, at least winter arrives. Unless New England weather surprises me again!

    Bookmark   October 5, 2014 at 9:41PM
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jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

Next time you have a soil test done, tell them it's for a home garden. That way, the math will be much simpler as it's based on 1000 sq foot areas.

    Bookmark   October 5, 2014 at 1:00AM
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rrleesb(8)

I had the commercial test done because they don't give organic matter for the home test.

    Bookmark   October 5, 2014 at 11:29AM
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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

I'd say for certain it's from the "pepper garlic soap concoction". With homemade sprays you are supposed to test it on a leaf first to see if it has any negative effects, you don't just spray the whole plant without checking. Also, you aren't supposed to spray when the sun is beating down on the leaves (not sure if you did).

What was the "recipe" you used for the spray?

Rodney

    Bookmark   October 3, 2014 at 9:48PM
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heyitsvic

No, i have tested the spray on a single leaf earlier and the plant did fine, meaning it stayed looking like this. And i just used garlic cloves, cayenne peppers, water, and a bit of unscented dish soap. And i did make sure to only spray the plant in the evening to avoid that issue :) I was just curious to know if this is a case of mosaic virus... i am new to gardening and am in deep fear of encountering the issue... The plant does seem to be doing better, however. Thanks anyway :)

    Bookmark   October 5, 2014 at 8:34AM
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cherylinaus

.with light shining through leaf.

    Bookmark   October 4, 2014 at 4:50PM
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goodground(z6 NJ)

Never tried it myself, but I don't think it's good practice to grow in clear cups. Can't tell from your pic if light can get in? I have always used the red/blue grocery store cups as they block light. I drill at least 6-10 holes on the bottom. If the soil drains well, there is no need for pebbles. Not familiar with your mix, but if you are using the one in the link below, it is not for containers. Clear cups with one hole filled with topsoil is a combo for failure. If so, time to go back to the drawing board.

Here is a link that might be useful: Black Earth

    Bookmark   October 4, 2014 at 3:35PM
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jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

Please avoid the "drainage material" in the bottom. Contrary to popular opinion, it helps to retain moisture in the container.

As for sideways images, that's an issue with images taken w/ Apple products -- iPods, iPads and more.
When the rest of us click such an image, it will come up in a new screen and be both larger and upright.

    Bookmark   October 4, 2014 at 4:45PM
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mdfarmer

I grew a few different colored orachs this spring, green, yellow and red. The flavor is somewhat similar to spinach, but I didn't think it tasted as good as other greens that I was growing, chard, etc. It's marketed as a warm weather alternative to spinach because it won't bolt in the heat, but the flavor is best in cool weather. It got too strong in summer.

I sell at a farmers' market and a few people bought orach once or twice, but I never heard any rave reviews. I started putting it in salad mix, a few of the varieties I grew had very vibrant coloring that looked very nice in a salad, but that's about it. I'm not sure that I'll grow it again.

    Bookmark   October 4, 2014 at 7:25AM
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floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK

Yes, it is in the Chenopodiaceae, not the Brassicaceae. It self sows all over my allotment. I use a few baby leaves in early salads when there's not much about but otherwise don't bother to pick it. Chard also self sows and is far more flavoursome imo. and easier to harvest (bigger leaves). I've also added the fresh seed pods to salads but they were uninspiring and tough. It's so easy to grow you've nothing to lose trying it - it requires no care at all.

    Bookmark   October 4, 2014 at 10:21AM
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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

Recently discussed in this forum.

Here is a link that might be useful: Will butternut squash continue to ripen after picking?

    Bookmark   October 3, 2014 at 1:39PM
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