23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

codym17, I've had pretty good success starting them indoors in a sunny south window, then transplanting them outside right as their second set of true leaves emerge. If you are worried about germination due to cold/snow, perhaps starting them indoors would be another way to get them growing quickly.

Thank you triple, from what I saw they didn't seem to like the full blast of the lights so I will use that method.

I didnt realize that they should have been seperated. The instructions they came with wanted you to plant the whole thing, pot and all. But I did remove the pot about 1 1/2 weeks ago. I'll try seperating them. What type of spacing should I be using?

Yes I would separate and replant. Lettuces transplant very easily. Always best to transplant when cool and cloudy though. Spacing for head lettuce is usually around 12 inch, but if that's your only bed, 9 plants may not fit at that spacing. You may want to try leaf lettuces too, those can be planted at a variety of spacings depending how you plan to harvest. It;s easier to grow than the head types.

For seed storage, I think the manual-defrost chest freezers are best, since they don't keep cycling the temperature around the freezer walls. Chest freezers are also very energy-efficient. The cold air doesn't pour out when you open them. But chest freezers don't give you nearly as good access as uprights.

I like to put a few plastic gallon jugs of water in the freezer and let it freeze. If the power goes out, the ice keeps the freezer cold for a long time, especially if you cover the freezer with a big blanket or some big sheets of bubble wrap.

What jars do is to protect seeds from pressure, as in, when the ziploc bags get rolled up, squeezed, and tossed around. But that's a good point about bags minimizing air content. There is some evidence that seed lifetime decreases with oxygen concentration. I guess you can purge the bags with nitrogen or CO2. But interestingly, vacuum sealing has been found to be the best for seed storage, and even more effective than refrigeration. I guess if you want to really do it right, use a Foodsaver on your seeds, and stick the bags in the freezer in a bottle. Though I think the smallest Foodsaver bags are pint-sized. That's pretty big. BTW, there are rumors around that seeds need oxygen to survive. That's simply wrong.

The questions to the OP are simple ones. Did these cukes see any freezing temperatures? As to powdery mildew, do the white spots rub off? That's what mildew would be like. And yes, it's really helpful to have a clue about where you are. Gardening advice is somewhat site-specific.

BTW, you can grow a Meyer Lemon where there are light frosts, though you may not get good fruits after you have one. If you've got it in a pot, as this one is, taking it indoors isn't that hard.

Since the Op mentioned that they "got this cucumber plant recently", it appears the plants may not have been hardened off sufficiently prior to transplant. I would expect to see far more damage had they been exposed to frost, especially for young seedlings; the newest leaves appear to be healthy. The only cure necessary may be time... that, and perhaps thinning the clump to reduce crowding.

And just as an aside, I concur with the post just above. Anyone who has gardened for any length of time knows what the USDA hardiness zones mean, and what they don't mean... so give it a rest, and let's stick to answering the OP's. I wish the USDA would switch to a system that is more indicative of overall climate (such as the Sunset zones) and put an end to the arguments.

I raise them as transplants as do the large growers these days...no problem with transplant at all if you transplant 21 days or so after seeding. I use 3 inch sq. plastic pots and they slide out perfectly if moist.

transplants as well

Laceyvail you grow your onions in a flat? Like what people start seeds in? I'm a little confused, am I missing something here. do you transplant them then? If you could explain a little more I'd really appreciate it. Thanks

Yes, of course I transplant them. Usually in mid-late April. And while they're in the flat, I keep trimming them back with scissors to about 3 inches.

Variable year to year here, but usually 120 frost free days, though lots of 40 degree days till may. Summer temps average 70 or 80 but can get in the 90s with heat index up to 100. Very humid here.

you need at least 75-90 days warm weather and temp over 75 during day since sweet potatoes don't like cool weather or cool soil. hoop house may be needed for early part of season to prewarm the soil.

Grid, describe that procedure, please. With a steam machine or flame weeder?

bonfire according to Charles Wilber

like you could steam or flame cage with out missing parts

if cage is coated full bleach immersion might be only option

Shall I come over with my carbon dating equipment to validate age of the seeds?

don't make a special trip, but if you're in the neighborhood. . . . . .

How about just planting your spuds into slightly raised hills (or level) and then covering with a thick layer of straw? Plants come up through it, with cool moist soil and no weeds. Reuse straw or till it in later in the season, I don;t understand why you would want to use fabric.

I don't know about growing potatoes like that, I use garbage cans, but I think you'll love the way a garden works when you plant things through holes in weed fabric. I've been doing it that way for a long time and I don't waste time pulling weeds and my soil stays really nice and warm and moist.

I am not a texas gardener, but if you find the varieties you like you could start suckers for your second crop. That would save you having extra seeds.

I will be setting out tomatoes this Saturday after this cold spell. If a frost is possible (anything under 40 degrees) I will cover it with a 5 gallon bucket until it warms up to 40 (usually by 9:00). I like Better Boy for a midsize tomato. If you want a truly meaty tomato go with one of the paste tomatoes like Roma. I do grow my own since it is hard to get plants this early but I did see some at Krogers. I started my plants January 15th. I live in Beaumont.

glib, you mean glib2 is NOT your doppelganger?

thanks.

Just for accuracies' sake, bark based potting media have been around a lot longer than Tapla formulated his recipes. They don't make for good seed starting though.

Thank you, Digdirt2. You've been so awesome at answering this newbies questions and I really appreciate it.

I haven't been able to check out local sources yet, (had an issue with my car battery and have been hesitant to leave the house this past week), but plan to hit up the local garden store tomorrow to see what they have and to ask what they might recommend.

I've read everything on the FAQ for growing from seed, growing under lights, and growing tomatoes, but will definitely refer back to them when needed.