24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

I really like Giant Marconis. The plants are small -- 2-3 feet -- but very prolific, and I start harvesting them in early July. I grow them in 10-gallon containers. I use them raw and grilled in place of bells. They have a lot more flavor. They are up to eight inches long and 2-3 inches wide.

It is definitely a fungus, a mushroom. It is a bracket, or "shelf" fungus, but there's a brazillion kinds of those, so I don;t know which one.
In general, mushrooms are not dangerous to your garden, the "mushroom" or "fruit" that we see are actually only just the reproductive parts of the fungus, with the rest of the organism, the part that eats and digests and everything else is "below ground." The umbrella shaped ones in particular are actually the reproductive parts of the soil mycorrhizae, so having them around is a good sign (unless it's a symptom of overwatering, that's a bad sign lol).
That type of fungus is usually typical of wood, old tree stumps and trunks, piles of firewood, untreated lumber etc., though it looks attached to some concrete right there. I would safely say it poses no threat to your garden plants and if you want to keep it around, it looks kind of neat, but if not, just like you did, knock it off with the shovel.

I will also say I sprayed all the tomato plants with a hose to wash off as much salt as possible and then for about an hour today we got monsoon like rain. The tumbling toms from the picture look better now although I had to peel off some dead branches. Of course, this is the third time the plant has nearly died and even though I have gotten hundreds of flowers I have only gotten 1 tomato. It may be the heat since I am in central florida.

"Gardening is so frustrating in florida i swear."
No offense, but you sprayed salt on a plant without understanding what may occur. Take some responsibility for your actions/ignorance. A controlled release fertilizer with calcium + water is all you need to have success. If you don't want to worry at all, only plant the most disease/drought/etc tolerant varieties. I wish you luck next year.


Straw is a good mulch, I use it a lot but I like to use the vacuum attachment on the leaf blower to shred them up first (running over with the lawn mower works too. Make sure to attach the bag to catch the pieces.) Straw is difficult to break down in the soil so I recommend you pull it back in spring, not turn it in. Keep reusing it until it begins to [finally] fall apart.


Be sure to check out all the "variety recommendations" posts over on the Growing Tomatoes forum here.
Dave


Glad to hear all the family is doing well Jay and now with all the kids back in school and after school activities kicking into high gear I'll bet, like me, you are missing all the garden assistants. I got spoiled having my right hand guys and gals helping gramps in the gardens this summer.
Thanks glib - good to know.
Dave

Thanks to all!
Will Neem oil kill them? My local extension service (Clemson) recommends Neem and I have some.
As soon as I get some rain so that I can plow deeply I plan to turn it under and part of the yard so that I can smooth it out. That way I will hopefully get anything that may be in the ground nearby.

Dust with diatomaceous earth. (No, don't just dump it on the ground.) My leaf-footed bugs were controlled that way. Not clear that will be of any value in the fall, but certainly in the spring. I agree about mobility. These bugs aren't just hibernating in your own soil, but everywhere around you.


<Is it bad to fertilize a light dosage of organic soluble fertilizer mid season for brassicas?>
In general I'd say no, no harm done. But not all "organic soluble fertilizers" are the same. There are hundreds of them available. Some are straight N, some high K or P and some are strictly micro-nutrients. So all have different effects. To answer your question accurately one would have to know at least the brand name or the nutrient focus of the one you are talking about?
Plus your row BS could be inconsistently healthy for reasons other than nutrients so you need to really ID the problem first. So what are the less-than-ideal symptoms?
Dave

It took all summer for them to head out - late August. I didn't think it was going to happen.
They can last more than one year and produce an abundant crop the next year, but it is unlikely in our climate AFAIK. They are a lot of work, needing to be started indoors in early February and set out early for vernalization but after frost... kind of a challenge.


An update: I'm seeing them now. They're very, very tiny, but there. I finally remembered my Johnny's Seeds password, and could look up the variety I am growing. Diablo, which is 110 days to maturity, but then you add 20 days for direct seeding. So yeah, they're right on time. Sorry to have wasted your time, and thank you for your responses.







OP seems a little coy about the product. Here it is Seed mat. Still no info as to how roots penetrate while weeds do not. Maybe it is simply that the mat excludes light?
I suspect that we're not going to get a lot of details about this stuff because they're probably proprietary, and what's going on here is really a marketing survey. This is an example of what I was skeptical about in the previous seed tape thread that I started. Everyone says it works, but I can't really understand why it should. All I get back is "take my/our word for it!"
As a design engineer at heart, I'd really like to understand how to optimize this concept which, as I said before, might be pretty advantageous for small seeds that you want to distribute uniformly, especially after presoaking.