23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
I know its different but if everyone leaves how can we learn and help each other??? Please stay yall....
wouldnt it be nice if most gardeners in most places lived near each other so we could share more??? share crops and ideas.... as long as a gardener did not over fertlize etc.....lol
you should have manured and covered it with straw.
how deep was raised bed. well given it takes 3 years till harvest for aspoergus.
you have time deal with past mistakes if made one.
As for price that varies from seller to seller.
8 for is not bad but it has been while since priced asparagus plants.
if is good depends on how old the roots are.
you planted it already sounds like. I would have done some research first on how to grow, then picked a spot as this is a perianal and will last many years if properly cared for. It will take at least a year to get production if you have 2-3 year old roots. plant would have waited to be planted. they are shipped by mail all the time
People! These are forums designed to share experience and knowledge. Those that show up TO help should do so willingly and without criticism. Those that show up FOR help should be able to do so without being reprimanded. Participation within the forums is voluntary. If you don't like that novices come armed with little if any knowledge, then don't bother yourself with those people. Skip those posts! I've done it myself.
Find a different venue, one that doesn't cater to those pesky newbies. How dare they stumble into the GardenWeb Forums hoping for some guidance and answers.
We have SO much to share. If someone is not of the mind to help the novices, then don't. Share great info and pictures with the rest of us, but don't make it a mission to drive newcomers away, grid.
This has been a forum where I can expect to find an exchange of ideas, experiments, eye candy, helpful hints. I put on my educator hat because I enjoy that aspect of GardenWeb, but surely understand that others do not.
I'll really have a problem if newcomers are made to feel stupid; if they retreat from here and never return.
'Sungold' Tomatoes have been the one variety of vegetable that have made it into every vegetable garden since we first tried them. Best tasting tomato I've grown and rarely make it to the table, because of snacking in the garden.
'Gonzales' Cabbage - a miniature that takes up only 10" so I can fit 4 across in our 4ft wide raised bed. Easy to grow, the size of a softball and just enough for one large bowl of cole slaw. Just right for us. Very happy with this variety and growing it for the 2nd time this year.
'Ministro' Cucumber - out of the FEDCO catalog last year, wow. Cucumber after cucumber for a long time. No trouble at all. Last year was 1st year for this variety too, so hoping to repeat this success this season.
'Sugar Snap' Peas, a winner. Very sweet, healthy and productive. I like that they grow tall and I can use all the height of my trellis.
Another vote for "Sugar Snap" peas. I have also tried various short and tall snap pea versions, including "Super Sugar Snap". Sugar Snap" for the win.
I would add Sungold but we ate them until we were sick. Think cherries in "Witches of Eastwick". But I still grow them.
You're concerned about toxicity, I assume? The paint shouldn't be an issue because you'll be sealing both surfaces before you apply any paint. The inside, especially, will need to be made water impermeable. Leave the bottom untreated, though, would be my advice.
Wow that's a lot to fit into that small space. The notch entry faces west, right? I'd put the tomatoes along the back wall trellis so they don't shade everything else, the squash on the north side trellis, all the peppers in the south end, and find somewhere else out of the garden for the melons. It all depends on how many plants of each you want.
You could space 4 (maybe 5) tomato plants on that back wall, maybe 4 pepper plants in the south block, and 2 squash plants in the north end block.
Hope that helps.
Dave
definitely helps. perhaps I should have been more clear, I do not plan to plant all of the same things in here again this year. I definitely want to do tomatoes and bell peppers again. the rest I will likely plant somewhere else, especially the melons. open to suggestions on anything else, was thinking maybe some carrots in front of some of the others where I don't have trellises.
Sounds very fancy Jorgen! You must be quite experienced with different cultures then. I have lived for a few years in Mississippi, US but have moved back home for college. And always good to have access to free organics! Seaweed is also very good for our local soils; a few years ago I used that along with the horse manure for the bananas. I never washed it (with our rainy season and porous soils I saw no need) and the plants did fine. And yes I know the soil here is very poor; it is a continuous struggle but I have seen people have good success here with raised beds.
You are quite welcome; please keep us updated of your progress. Here is my first banana flower in 2012 from a plant that was put in native soil and fed nothing except deep mulching with horse manure and seaweed.
Forgot to mention that I have not tried out the raised beds yet but have had some success with containers which also do very well here, and you can move them around to get the amount of sun best for the plants (eg. southern side of house if needing full sun, easter or western side if our full sun is too strong for the plant).
Tomatillo:
Adenium:
Soursop/Guanabana seedlings:
Pineapple:
Jalapenos:
Kale:
You get the idea; I would post more but I think I have reached the limit for photos per post ;)
Berfy--As one very familiar with growing herbs, with that little direct sun you are limited on the most well known culinary ones. Basil, while it may not like full Texas midsummer sun, does require more than dappled shade for less than 4 hours per day. You may get some small plants if there's enough reflective light, but they'll probably not thrive. On the other hand, it's easy and cheap to seed so may be worth trying spring or fall when the tree isn't fully shading. Otherwise, cilantro or mints (inc lemon balm), chives, parsley may be worth a try. The arid Mediterranean types like rosemary, thyme, oregano, etc need more sun. Lots of trial and error in your future--don't give up! Try the leafy greens and peas for starters (this year I'll be trying a dwarf container pea called half pint).
On the secondary topic of zones, they do have usefulness for basic info. Yes, there is a lot of variation in climate between different locations zoned the same, but they do provide some good basic starting point info. The more of that type we have, the more useful our answers can be--that's why we ask, and those who seem to know the most will continue to ask and have found the way to include that in their name.
Wow. Sunset Climate Zones. I was not aware of these, and they seem quite nice. As they say on their website ...
"A plant's performance is governed by the total climate: length of
growing season, timing and amount of rainfall, winter lows, summer
highs, wind, and humidity.
Sunset's climate zone maps take all these factors into account,
unlike the familiar hardiness zone maps devised by the U.S. Department
of Agriculture, which divides most of North America into zones based
strictly on winter lows.
The U.S.D.A. maps tell you only where a plant may survive the winter; our climate zone maps let you see where that plant will thrive year-round."
That's precisely what I've been saying.
Also, I see that the Houzz folks are listening hard to us, and have included a text field for garden zones in their Advanced Settings. Thanks! I need to fill that in for myself. Now as I've been saying, inclusion of some identification of garden zone is a great idea. The question is what text provides the best identification.
prariemoon-
Do I use dill in the kitchen? Yes and yes! It's one of my top three herbs that I use the most of. For pickling, sure. But dill has a great way of perking up most herb things the way lemon has a way of perking up with a touch of acid. We eat a lot of fish, so dill often is a seasoning there- and I make tartar sauce, and that always has dill. And stew and soups can benefit from a pinch or few dried to a small handful fresh- not enough to give a dill flavor, but to enhance the other herbs. Dill is part of my homemade ranch mix, and is in a lot of my cold pasta salads. Handfuls of it in homemade dill dip to go with raw veggies. It's yummy in scrambled eggs- and great with cooked spinach. Tuna salad and egg salad for sandwiches too. It pairs well with a lot of mild white cheeses as a topper and garnish. In the summer, we always have a tub of cottage cheese seasoned with dill, pepper, salt, and parsley in the fridge for a quick and cool nourishing snack. It's great with a lot of cucumber dishes and salads too.
Corn is a big nitrogen user especially, and just as with all crops it also uses P and K and micro-nutrients and minerals. So yes you would need to refresh all that after harvesting it for the next crop to succeed. Just as with ALL succession planting, the soil needs amending.
The form of the replacement is your choice. What you use as the follow-up crop may all depend on your location, your zone, and the DTM of that crop. Some would recommend beans as they don't require (or tolerate) lots of nitrogen but with well amended soil you can plant the crop of your choice.
Dave
." Why wouldn't you just plant them in potting mix "
it would be a tad bit harder to find and recover all the seeds, germinated or not...
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"Also curious as to why you didn't also plant some seeds directly in a seed starting or potting mix."
I wanted to plant some melons.
i had read that fulvic acid increases the ability to uptake minerals.
most people start their seeds in either paper towels, or in a soil-less media. in that respect, a paper towel shouldn't be much different, but, that would be a different experiment anyway.
My intent was to see if fulvic acid really made a difference. i had some worm castings, so, i was curious how they would stack up against the water and fulvic.
i also didnt start any in pure sand. i wanst trying to test every media.
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As fas as why i said i would use fulvic acid when it has a lower germ rate...
i want a healthy , strong seedling.
i dont need to maximize the number of seedlings that germinate.
if i really want more than one plant, then, i can plant 20 seeds.
my end goal is healthy strong plants
I sow canteloupe seeds, and the majority of my other veggie seeds directly into the garden and expect (and get) a germination rate so close to 100% that I never notice the duds.
For those that I start early for transplanting, the seeds are sown densely into heated seed flats until germinated, then transplanted directly into cell packs to grow under lights. 100% of my cells packs are filled with robust little seedlings.
My garden soil is mostly dense red clay amended occasionally with free wood chips. My germination medium is coarser than most, probably, and my preferred mix for the cell packs comes from Fafard....quite porous and fast draining.
I have to say that I have never understood why people germinate in paper towels, etc. That's not at all a criticism in any way. It's obvious that there are many ways to get the job done and we each will employ what we believe to be most efficient and successful and satisfying.
Some people grow 3 plantings, with 2 weeks between sowings. Or you can plant all at same time, but with varieties with different maturity dates. I grow melons next to my early corn planting so the vines can ramble in there after the corn harvest.
I grow 7 plantings with about 10 days between.
I suggest a good rotation time for melons...melons tend to have more sicknesses than anything else I know.
And no, I don't plant a second planting in the same place, but rather I plant a cover crop following the first 6 plantings.
above the photo it says advice.click that it will take you to a page where on the left side it says garden forums,click that and you're in. and yes it is more convoluted but houzz is a home improvement site that now has a garden feature. that isn't going to change but gw remains the same.
Thanks!