23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

Not sure if this is a house roof or apartment building or something else since I assume it has a flat top. If it is a house roof, the first thing I'd do, if it hasn't been done already, is have someone come out to make sure the roof is structurally sound and can handle the added weight of the pots and plants. Chances are it can but it's one of those things I'd be paranoid about.
Rodney
This post was edited by theforgottenone1013 on Sun, Feb 8, 15 at 14:30



Yall making me drool LOL Yum Yum delicious melons
First before I forget....
Oh met a nice Menonite guy at store..... He said he used "Dipel" he ran A LARGE garden and produce area.
Hubby was "meloned out"as well as "greenbeaned" out. not ME NOt me.... I love my own ORGANIC fab tasting melons. God blessed me last year with all my produce.....
I am so greatful.... I kept telling Hubby Wish I could put this some of these melons in suspended animation... LOL
But the DANG squash bugs drove me batty. constantly picking them off. I had fence aound whole garden. I think the 6 owls etc I moved around over the Tposts kept the blank blank birds away....
plus maybe Kitty too.....but the fence did not keep Kitty out..... he climbed the cattle panel fence covered with poultry wire etc on the sides.. Hubby installed 4 gates too.
all used Gates.... nor did the fence keep out a creepy skunk....but it did the rabbits.......
I even tried a vacuum cleaner on bugs. no go...
Got the wire to make "domes" etc but it takes so uch work yeah bags can cover and I did some of my melons. but protecting the vines from ..BUGSSSSSS is another thing.......
ah well
Happy gardening

we made 5 domes, stapled or screwed and washered wire into a frame. I use smaller opening wire on some of them. covered with plastic.
Have them for over a year now.
I wish now I could have attached tulle first cause so many problems with those DANG slugs, betles stink bugs etc.. absolutely despise white moths........
Wish I had covers on all 20 plus raised beds...
Even tried "hoops made of water tubing.. pain to take off and on covers...
Oh these is a setup a guy did in "Farm Show Magazine" I believe his cover slid off and on......

Doodlebug
This was my first attempt at sweet potatoes also, and a bust. I grew slips from organic store bought sweet potatoes. I harvested a bunch of them about the size of the petite gourmet potatoes at the grocer. I planted some the raised beds now so we'll see if they fair better. Check out Debra Graf's website, she can grow some nice sweet potatoes.
Craig
Here is a link that might be useful: Mini Garden Abundence sweet potatoes

Did you wait until frost to dig them? That could be why the ones you did get rotted. Were there a lot of weeds? I grow mine in black plastic. Did they get enough water? Root veggies need the most. Did you do a soil test? Your ph may be off; they don't require fertile soil.

Here you go - lots of discussions here on best mulches for the vegetable garden.
My personal preference is old hay and straw.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Best mulches for the vegetable garden discussions

Use whatever you've got on hand or is easy to find. Grass clippings, leaves, straw, hay, pine needles, etc. There are many options. Some people use wood chips but I wouldn't recommend them unless you are doing a no-till garden (others will probably disagree with me).
Rodney


What was the intended use of these plants? Food or to grow further? I've not seen hydroponically grown plants sold anywhere but a food store. Though you mentioned they were small plants, which makes it sound like they are transplants intended to get grown further in another hydroponic setup. I've never seen, that would be interesting.
But back to your original question, if I were in your shoes I would cut off all but the smallest leaves to give them the best chance of growing. Water grown roots tend to not transition to soil well if at all. So I would think of the plant as if it were a cutting with no roots. Lots of leaves and no roots would mean certain death. So remove all but a few leaves and cross your fingers when you plant.

The plants are being sold in produce department for eating. As "baby kale" I suppose. The leave are about 3-4" long and 2 - 21/2" wide. The same seller usually has several types of herbs and garlic that are hydroponically grown in a greenhouse.
So far they seem to be doing just fine, and that surprises me. I've kept them watered and have put superthrive or fish emulsion in the water a couple of times. They'll stay in the pots until I know they have new roots, then will go into the garden, and they'll have to survive a hot, steamy summer. I've never seen this variety of kale before and don't know how large it will get.

Just for conversation, I have some fellow church members who are transplants from the northeast. They grow rhubarb every year from seed. They say it won't survive our heat and won't return the next year, but they get enough for their needs by starting fresh each year.

soflaj -- great to read the results of your mini experiment! I've been using Azomite for a couple of years, but don't know what it's done since I just throw in on every bed.
Jonhughes -- thanks for posting all that great info. Who knew about capillary action???

"Within a week there was an impressive difference."
It is a biological impossibility that 'rock dust' caused any difference in growth over that time frame. The End. Some guy on the internet hypes rock dust, and suddenly it's magic fairy dust for gardening. It's a huge waste of money. Get a soil test that includes micronutrients. If you do find that something is below proper levels, buy some and add it to your soil. Otherwise, add organic matter and see REAL differences in growth.
This person needs organic matter, not inorganic. Peat moss, compost - that's the ticket.


That is a lovely garden. I used the fan shaped concrete blocks that you can stack without using any mortar for my raised beds. They form oval shapes because of the front curve on the blocks. I love them. They will never need replacing.
If you watch Lowe's and Home Depot ads they usually have specials on these kinds of materials in the spring. I actually bought enough for the first row or two of blocks in my beds the first year, and then got the rest the next year. It worked just fine.

Serenade is not copper based - it is bacterial. Serenade Garden Disease Control contains a unique, patented strain (QST 713) of Bacillus subtilis(bacterias) which controls diseases such as Fire Blight, Botrytis, Sour Rot, Rust, Sclerotinia, Powdery Mildew, Bacterial Spot and White Mold. Apply Serenade Garden Disease Control to roses, vegetables, fruits, flowering plants, trees and shrubs at 2-4 oz/gal water.

I read that there's nothing you can do to reduce copper levels in the soil once you use copper fungicide, and I'm worried about too-high levels. I'll admit, it's more my ignorance keeping me from using it, since I don't know how much copper fungicide would need to be used to actually show a noticeable difference of copper levels in the soil. I'm part of a community garden, so I don't want to do anything to the plot that will prevent future gardeners from growing things.
If it would take an astronomical amount of copper to make enough of a difference that it would start harming the soil, then I certainly don't mind using it (like you said Dave, anything I can do to prevent disease). However, I just don't know what that amount would be.





there maybe people who grow it in USA.
Importing seed potato to USA would a lot trouble due to import regulation of plant material.