23,821 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

Sure looks like a sweet potato to me, and a nice one too.

    Bookmark     December 15, 2014 at 8:22AM
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jctsai8b(8B)

may be sweet potato

This post was edited by JCTsai on Mon, Dec 15, 14 at 20:27

    Bookmark     December 15, 2014 at 7:39PM
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

crikey ...

how deep is the field ...

and will anything you grow on top ... get their roots .... to the actual depth ...

mine is 2 to 3 feet down .. in sand ... and water doesnt leach upwards ...

so i simply dont see what difference it could make ...

as with wells ... someone in the county ought to have access to permit/installation information ... i think i tracked my well info thru the county health dept ... [i had started by calling well drillers .. there are only 3 in the county .... until one of them gave me the lead .. you might try the same with septic installers]

once you have some actual facts... THEN ... you might get some actual relevant advice ..

and... maybe the health dept peeps will have info ...

good luck

ken

    Bookmark     December 15, 2014 at 12:30PM
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tishtoshnm Zone 6/NM

I will start this by saying this is just conjecture on my part, I do not know enough to be sure. I wonder about heavy metals and it may be worth it to you have the soil tested by a place that specifically tests for heavy metals that could have concentrated in the site, depending on how long the septic was used. The potential risk could be somewhat lessened by using raised beds but as it is my family's health/well-being on the line, I would prefer to have more definitive data before proceeding.

    Bookmark     December 15, 2014 at 2:21PM
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grubby_AZ Tucson Z9

That new code is with a fifty dollar minimum.

    Bookmark     December 13, 2014 at 11:13PM
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wertach zone 7-B SC

Thanks Grubby, I didn't click on the link before posting so I didn't know. I will check next time!

    Bookmark     December 15, 2014 at 1:27PM
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muscadineman45(7)

I went to that posting and still didn't find out anything worthwhile.

    Bookmark     May 23, 2014 at 5:08PM
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irfourteenmilecreek

My name is Ron Cook, I am the one who developed Heavy Hitter Okra.
I have seeds, if you need to contact me about them, please send an email to: fourteenmilecreek@ yahoo.com

fourteen mile creek is where I've lived most of my life, so I made it my email address.

Also, there is quite a bit of information about Heavy Hitter okra with photos, and the story of how I developed it, on the green country seed savers website. I hope this is helpful information to anyone seeking seeds from this new strain.

    Bookmark     December 15, 2014 at 7:46AM
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zeuspaul(9b SoCal)

Whether or not you opt for lined raised beds or not you still have to deal with the gophers. They will destroy roses, fruit trees and just about anything else you care about.

Learn how to trap them. I like and use the Victor black box trap. You need a body count. Guessing with poison or scare tactics isn't the best way to go.

Gophers relocate on the surface. Poultry fence around the garden is helpful to keep out the surface relocating gophers and essential for rabbits. If you see mounds approaching the garden you will have time to get the gopher before it finds its way under the fence.

Zeuspaul

    Bookmark     December 14, 2014 at 11:21AM
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garybeaumont_gw(TX 9A)

From the perspective of the DH, I would build 2 separate 3X8 beds 10 inches deep. 10" boards are cheaper than 12" and should be deep enough. I would not line them, just assemble with 3" screws.

3' wide beds would make it easier to reach the middle if you have the baby in a sling. The additional dirt would not be that much more than one 4X8. If you need the lining you could always tear it down and rebuild it. The boards should be strong enough not to need post to keep them from bowing.

Trust me, you do not want to have goats and a new baby at the same time.

I use to live near Abilene that had both moles and gophers. They were a problem that you fought but did not wipe out the garden. I just planted flat after tilling up the ground. I would save up to buy a tiller rather than rent one.

    Bookmark     December 14, 2014 at 10:58PM
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daryljurassic(OHIO 6a)

Thx Kristi. I'm familar with the hearts of course, but wasn't sure how to prepare/eat... the leaves. I have one ready to pick so I will try the steam/butter recipe tonight. I have a total of seven plants. Not sure how many to expect per plant. Some are just starting to form but there is one plant that has three and another that has four out at this point - at different stages. Shouldn't be long though.

    Bookmark     July 24, 2008 at 9:58AM
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Rodolph

We in the Middle East prepare the artichoke differently. We use several methods for that but in most of them, we dip them when stewed in a mixture of mashed garlic, salt, lemon juice and olive oil. Then we peel off the leafs and eat the lower portion. The heart is then eaten seperately after removing the flower hairs.
We also chop the heart then clean the flower, and do the heart as salad after stewing or even green.
We also use the green heart and fill it With the French Gratin recipe.

1 Like    Bookmark     December 14, 2014 at 1:31PM
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pnbrown

I don't believe wall-walla will survive zone 5. Z7 is supposed to be the maximum coldness. Walla-walla WA is z8, right?

    Bookmark     December 13, 2014 at 2:46PM
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TOM A Z5-IL.

pnbrown- walla walla survived in a low tunnel in my back yard- the winter of 2102/2013 in zone 5. I am experimenting further this year-hoping to replant onion seedlings started late last summer in low tunnels.

    Bookmark     December 13, 2014 at 7:05PM
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thepodpiper

Can you show us some pics.

Here is a link that might be useful: growing seedlings indoors

    Bookmark     December 13, 2014 at 8:41AM
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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

Sounds like it might be a soil problem. Your problem sounds like it's not just that your seedlings aren't growing, but that there is something actually hurting them. It's hard to overilluminate indoors, and if you under-illuminate, things will just grow more slowly. What are you using for a planting mix?

I'll echo floral_uk's question. What exactly are you trying to grow that you're having trouble with? You say you can get seeds to start, but not grow. Which seeds?

    Bookmark     December 13, 2014 at 11:46AM
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RedSun (Zone 6, NJ)

This is only your 2nd year. The yield will at least double over the next two years. Send me some :-)

    Bookmark     December 10, 2014 at 10:53PM
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thepodpiper

First thing I would take into consideration is how much do you like asparagus? If you really like it than plant as much as you have room for, you won't regret it.

    Bookmark     December 13, 2014 at 8:59AM
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WANTED: multiplier onionsAnyone have these?
Posted by zzukke(z10 SO CAL) November 11, 2014
2 Comments
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twosunsaz(z9 AZ)

I have lots of I-itoi multiplying onions.

    Bookmark     December 12, 2014 at 10:50AM
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twosunsaz(z9 AZ)

I have lots of I-itoi multiplying onions and a few Egyptian Walking Onions.

This post was edited by twosunsaz on Fri, Dec 12, 14 at 11:09

    Bookmark     December 12, 2014 at 10:52AM
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jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

What is the plant growing in? The ground? A container?
If the latter, what did you fill the container with?
And how do you decide it's time to water?

    Bookmark     December 10, 2014 at 1:15AM
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nc_crn

The cupping and edge yellowing followed by necrosis is very similar to boron deficiency, but I am extremely hesitant to advise any boron adjustment unless you know the base value of your boron content to begin with.

It is both very easy and very detrimental to plants to over-apply boron and it should only be done with a soil test.

    Bookmark     December 10, 2014 at 6:26PM
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ralleia(z5 Omaha, NE)

What temperatures are you trying to grow them at? It's true that greens are a cool season crop. I googled to find the precise temperature, and Clemson U. says that lettuce prefers to grow at temperatures from 55 to 65 degrees F. I would think that 60F would be a reasonable compromise between the plants' growing preferences and the desire for quick growth.

The lighting depends on the type of lighting used. I prefer fluorescent tube shoplights on everything--brassicas, greens, nightshade seedlings, etc. They're inexpensive, readily available, and have a good lumen to watt ratio. It's also pretty much impossible to burn your plants. I hang them on chains from S-hooks and adjust them every day or so to make sure they're practically touching the leaves. Someday they'll make LEDs in the right red for plant growth, and then I'll switch over to those.

Some varieties of plants absolutely need light to germinate. I read that the light-seeded lettuces do, and you would have to undertake a complete researching of every type of green that you intend to grow to make sure that that variety doesn't need light. So I for one wouldn't go with no lights at all. Besides, unless you are very disciplined about checking them, there exists a good possibility that you will miss noticing that a few have germinated, and they'll be spindly weak little things searching in vain for a light source by the time that you hit the switch. Maybe you could compromise by leaving on just one bank of lights? It would make it easier to spot germination anyhow.

I wouldn't place the lights too close while trying to germinate. You'll be trying to have a good balance between warm but not too warm, and moist, but not damp to get the fastest possible germination. Everything germinates faster at warmer temperatures, ( 70 or 77 degrees, say), however the germination RATE of the cool-loving crops can drop precipitously at these temperatures.

For example, according to one source, spinach has a 96% germination rate at 41F, but takes 22.5 days to germinate at those temps. Raise the temperature to 77 degrees and you'll get germination in 5.1 days, but only 28% germination.

Parsley is simply slow-growing, and it is biennial, so I certainly wouldn't try growing it as an annual and harvesting the whole plant. Instead, I would have a permanent patch of them going and just harvest off the patch, allowing the individual plants to regrow continually. You don't have your climate zone information showing, but depending on your climate I would try to keep the parsley going outside. I have a permanent patch that seeds itself every year, and am working on establishing a patch in my greenhouse under double protection for winter use. They're one of the toughest of the cold-tolerant plants.

    Bookmark     November 2, 2010 at 6:32PM
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theripetomatofarm(Zone 9)

It's funny reading this thread 4 years later and seeing people ask "what are micro greens?" Ha ha.

    Bookmark     December 10, 2014 at 5:40PM
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ltilton

Lime is alkaline - high pH. Acid is low.

    Bookmark     April 6, 2014 at 7:50PM
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mountstreet7

Hi everyone, I have a product that can be sprayed on a lawn and will kill all onion weed (and no harm to the grass) in one, maximum two applications (if infestation is very extensive).

I am in the process of commercialization - to be a specialized service where a contractor would come and spray for you or to sell for people to home spray.

As such I was going to ask the forum what they thought about pricing for this service/product and if there would be a demand for this.

Thank you for your help.

Regards, David

    Bookmark     December 9, 2014 at 10:33PM
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lazy_gardens

To get large roots, you need a large area ... which means that square foot gardening and yams will not work very well.

Containers have to be large enough to allow unrestricted root growth.

It might be a better use of your limited space to grow leafy crops and herbs. Buy yams from people who have the room to grow them.

    Bookmark     December 9, 2014 at 6:25PM
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glib(5.5)

For mice/voles, I think the only viable, sustainable remedy is hanging barn owl boxes everywhere in the surrounding woods.

    Bookmark     December 7, 2014 at 9:49PM
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Creek-side(5)

Sorry, I thought I had already replied to a couple of these.

Anyway, I grow for my own use only.

I don't really have a deer problem. They have only gone after my beans, and I solved that with bird netting.

I don't want to create a permanent fence for various reasons. To keep out the rabbits I use 30-inch chicken wire that I don't bury at all. Then I lay a 12-inch roll up next to it to keep them from digging under it. Every couple of weeks I pull up the 12-incher and weed eat both sides of the fence.

    Bookmark     December 9, 2014 at 6:03PM
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