23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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zzackey(8b GA)

I wouldn't leave the roots to rot. Sounds like an invitation for trouble.

    Bookmark   August 31, 2014 at 2:21PM
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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

I chop/mow them up and leave them. With some rotation I don't have much trouble at all.

    Bookmark   August 31, 2014 at 3:15PM
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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

I'm only suggesting this because you said you don't plan to plant in these beds for years. If it were me I'd cut the weeds close to the ground (leaving the cut weeds to lay on top of the soil if they aren't full of seeds), cover the ground with a few layers of cardboard, then cover the cardboard with a thick layer of woodchips. Keep the layer of chips sufficient and you'll have minimal weed issues.

Rodney

    Bookmark   August 30, 2014 at 1:00PM
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glib(5.5)

I am usually a leader of the cardboard wood chips party, but she has a real chance of exterminating the seed bank. I suggest, like Loribee, black plastic for a couple of summers, with frequent openings, light hoeing, and deep watering, then closing again. In fact, clear plastic is probably best, as some seeds are light sensitive. Open, hoe, water, and close maybe three times during the warm season, then you can cover with wood chips.

    Bookmark   August 31, 2014 at 12:45PM
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laceyvail(6A, WV)

I second the wiping them down with a light bleach solution. And handle them very gently--an invisible bruise will turn to rot later on. I too have kept them almost a year. Store them in a cool but dry place. Cellar is not a good choice if it's at all damp. A cool room, extra bedroom perhaps, is a good place to store them, not touching on top of newspaper.

Oh, and when you pick them, leave at least an inch of stem.

This post was edited by laceyvail on Sat, Aug 30, 14 at 6:25

    Bookmark   August 30, 2014 at 6:23AM
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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

Also, it is a good idea to place something under the squash. Sometimes worms or bugs make holes in the bottom lying on the ground.

    Bookmark   August 31, 2014 at 9:23AM
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zzackey(8b GA)

You could post this on the Seed Exchange if you still have some left over.

    Bookmark   August 30, 2014 at 1:43PM
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Persimmons(6b Southern MA)

I have been looking for pawpaw seeds high and low! I was ready to order some from a tree nursery. Do you think I could send you a stamped envelope for the seeds?

    Bookmark   August 30, 2014 at 11:16PM
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zzackey(8b GA)

Did they dry out one time? Did you get water on the leaves when the sun was out? I don't think it's a disease or virus.

    Bookmark   August 30, 2014 at 1:38PM
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KLI_6B(6B)

these plants are in container and water once a day in morning. some of the containers have two plants in one pot. One died and the other seems to be ok as of now

I also notice a cucuzza plant ( in ground) that the stem starts to dry out( brown color) today too.

    Bookmark   July 15, 2014 at 4:33PM
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balamurali

recommendation of this root rot by organic: been cake chemical method : clorphyifos 20%ec mancozeb 50%wg. applied incoler.region for more details contact me in email balamuralismp@gmail.com

    Bookmark   August 30, 2014 at 12:56PM
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n2xjk

Amaize is relatively new, not widely available. Reading the description on Burpee's website doesn't say if its SU, SE or SH2, which I'd want to know before I grow it. Considering its described as having a pop or crunch when you bite into it, and several people have commented on poor germination, I'd guess its SH2 (supersweet or an augmented variant).

I've grown Bodacious before and was happy with the results.

This year my varieties are Sugar Baby (just started picking this week), Painted Hill, Ruby Queen and Bodacious.

    Bookmark   August 29, 2014 at 9:43AM
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farmerdill

What is amazing to me is that George Crookham is named as the major developer, yet it is not listed among Crookham's varieties. It is a Burpee exclusive. There is a lot of hype about it, but no commercial vendors which arouses suspicion in my feeble mind. Crookham seed has several outstanding whites that have done well for me. Argent, Frosty, Silver Duchess ( my favorite),

    Bookmark   August 30, 2014 at 12:01PM
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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

The folks over on the Harvest Forum (the forum for food preservation) might be able to help.

Rodney

Here is a link that might be useful: Harvest Forum

    Bookmark   August 29, 2014 at 4:10PM
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planatus(6)

If you cook the beets before you freeze them, they won't go rubbery. Beets will keep in the fridge a couple of months, so there's not much of a need to freeze them.

    Bookmark   August 30, 2014 at 9:11AM
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catherinet(5 IN)

Thanks rhizo. Yeah......they're predators on me too! Ouch!

    Bookmark   August 29, 2014 at 9:37AM
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lkzz(7b)

Our chickens will eat the nymphs (small white version of the adults that accumulate en masse on the fruit). BUT BE CAREFUL - chickens will also eat the fruit (squash, etc).

    Bookmark   August 29, 2014 at 4:17PM
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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

Got your answer in your other post.

Rodney

Here is a link that might be useful: Other Post

    Bookmark   August 29, 2014 at 12:13AM
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RobertInAPickle(9)

I'm trying to figure out how to post multiple pictures... If anyone can advise, please do.

I may actually have some cucumber beetles. I found some very small black/yellow fly/beetle looking insects. Not sure if they are beetles or not.

    Bookmark   August 28, 2014 at 11:50AM
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RobertInAPickle(9)

Another pic....

    Bookmark   August 28, 2014 at 11:53AM
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vgkg(Z-7)

Just finished harvesting the last Ambrosia bicolor, se, corn plot #3. All 3 plots were delicious and productive. Some earworms in this last batch but that's expected in the late season. Biggest pests were squirrels during the day, and opossums at night. Had to fence in and net this last batch or all would have been lost. I find that planting corn any later than July 1st here results in small ears and less per stalk, most likely due to the shortening day length.

    Bookmark   August 28, 2014 at 10:04AM
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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

If the plants look good, why fertilize? Doesn't make sense to me. If the leaves are starting to yellow or if they have had poor growth then I could understand. Just let the plants do their thing and the fruits should ripen up for you.

And the fertilizer you have is basically micronutrients. At this point I doubt they'd be of any benefit to the plants and with an N-P-K of 0.1-0-0 they wouldn't force new growth (not that you want to force new growth).

Rodney

    Bookmark   August 26, 2014 at 10:13PM
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alisande(Zone 4b)

Thanks, Rodney. Between my post and yours, I found this:

Foliar feeding can be done during early growth of the plant, during or after blooming, when is plant is under stress, or just prior to plant maturity to increase brix. Information on increasing brix can be found here. Foliar feeding can be done as often as every three or four days, but even applying once will be advantageous.

The article makes the point that foliar feeding doesn't replace nutrients from the soil, but enhances them.

You're right--I don't want to force new growth. I'm just hoping to encourage ripening.

    Bookmark   August 28, 2014 at 10:04AM
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galinas(5B)

And larva itself

    Bookmark   August 27, 2014 at 10:13PM
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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

Pepper maggots.

Rodney

    Bookmark   August 27, 2014 at 11:13PM
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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

nfriday- As I said in my OP, I don't think we have SVB here in CA.
Sunni and Rodney, all of my beds are raised and lined with hardware cloth (gophers). I didn't see any gopher action, but I'll look around for others. I've never seen evidence of moles in the last 30 years here, but maybe voles? I have a lot of garden cats, but I'll look around! Nancy

    Bookmark   August 27, 2014 at 8:31PM
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Slimy_Okra(2b)

Any evident signs of stem rot?

    Bookmark   August 27, 2014 at 10:33PM
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