23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

Yep. Just came back to say I found that forum. Sorry everyone.

Not a problem. :)

Dave

If you decide against towels I sure hope you'll take them to the pound/shelter. Dogs lay on the bare cold cement inside the cages. I know this for a fact. Just donated three old comforters. Pounds always need blankets, towels, quilts, and comforters.

If rain isn't in the forecast while you're on vacation it might be easier just to throw a tarp or a sheet of plastic over the garden. That it as long as you don't have any desirable plants growing.

Rodney

jennieboyer, I generally watch the cauliflower florets at the base of the head and look for separation. I try to catch it when they just start to separate. This is not always easy to see, especially for the self blanching cauliflowers...Below is a Candied Charm head that is noticeably separated.

Here is a Candied Charm head that is just starting to separate.

Here is a Romanesco Veronica head that is showing first hints of separation. Its a bit hard to see - look close at the bottom florets. I picked it because we are supposed to reach 20 degrees in the AM and I did not want to take a chance on an essentially ready-to-pick head This is my first year growing the Romanesco Veronica and I'm not sure of it's hardiness. I have several smaller heads and will soon know of their hardiness.

. But as noted above by farmerdill it's really a matter of preference.

grandad: those are just about perfect.. any more separation and one has waited too long.

Jennie: I wouldn't let FULL size interfere with harvesting a week or so prior to that potential. Better a week early than a week late. :

Kevin

why havent you shown us a pic of the inside ... drooling too much after cutting them open.. to pick the camera back up ... lol...

any observations as to rind thickness etc???

ken

The skin was around 1/2 inch thick or less. The rest was the edible orange area.

bella-trix, I have raised Nancy Hall many times. I kind of like it as I prefer yellow over orange , red, and white ones. Nancy Hall is sweet but a bit grainy. O'Henry is a yellow that is very smooth. Steele Plants carries both.

Since this is an older thread, I'll suggest two varieties that are not mentioned. Bradshaw is one of the best flavored orange sweet potatoes I've grown. Covington is a recent release that is also an excellent sweet potato.

Muscadineman45,
Visit green country seed savers website to see photos and read more articles about Heavy Hitter okra. The seeds are only available by contacting the developer at fourteenmilecreek@yahoo.com Fall and Winter are best times, as Spring and Summer, they are in the fields all day.

Here is another photo of Heavy Hitter okra. Notice the heavy branching traits, each branch will fork out to form a crown of blooms, bearing several pods of fresh, crisp, Clemson Spineless okra pods.

You can read more about Heavy Hitter okra at the green country seed savers website.

Thank you, I have done that!

I have Reed, Pinkerton, Fuerte and Hass. Hass is the most reliable producer, has very good flavor and hangs well on the tree.

I wasn't trying to overwinter eggplants, but I had one that was growing nicely in a 2-gallon grow bag and had unripe fruit on it. After the eggplants ripened and were harvested, I cut off the foliage and neglected the plant on a windowsill with a plant light running on a timer for another plant. The eggplant promptly put up new shoots, and I started watering it once in a while. Now in early January, it is looking full and vigorous. I am curious enough to keep watering it and see where this leads.

We had a somewhat unpredicted "hard freeze" last week -- temps of 28F, and I didn't have a chance to protect my peppers (jalapenos) and eggplants (ichiban). which I was thinking about keeping over the winter. Both were doing fine in temps of 30-40F. The peppers did well in the freeze -- no damage at all, but the eggplants were half-killed. In fact, the peppers were more exposed, and the eggplants were on the south side of the house. I ended up pulling the latter. Comes as a bit of a surprise that the eggplants seem to be a lot less frost tolerant than the peppers. I would have thought they'd both be about the same in that regard, but that they're not is consistent with what I'm reading here.

1. Only plant ONE cherry tomato plant, and give it 4x4' to itself.
2. Keep it simple, stupid
3. Plant more cabbages and don't bother with Brussels sprouts
4. Get soakers or drip lines installed first thing, and mulch heavily to keep the watering labor under control.
5. Don't plant so many summer crops; leave room for fall crops
6. Be prepared with mulch or row covers in case of freak early winter weather like we had in November.

These were fun and inspiring to read.

Good luck, everyone, in 2015!

Just for info, Stokes now offers broccolini Aspabroc

Last year I grew both Happy Rich and Green Lance (and will do so again this year).. I direct sowed both in early April under a little hoop house I rigged up over the bed. Both did very well, were very easy to grow and were absolutely delicious. Much easier than broccoli, much more productive, and better tasting and more versatile as well. Great plants.

BTW, When I removed the plastic hoop house, I immediately put the plants under row covers.

I also grew the bicolor and white Mirai last year. Although the corn is supersweet, it definitely lacks taste and flavor as the posts before commented. The sweetness is cloying rather than pleasant. Will not grow these ever again.

Wow, I'm surprised about all the negative comments on Mirai corn, Last year I tried Bicolor Mirai 301BC Corn Seeds from Park Seeds and everyone loved it and asked me were I bought it, I will be growing it again.

Seth would you like to buy my bridge with money you just saved on matches?

Thanks for saving me a boatload of money !!!

I got a kick out of the phrase "efficient/economical"... there is no such thing when you are discussing wildlife. I have been gardening & managing wildlife for 50+ years.

You always use an 8' Sta-Tuff net wire fence & 10' T-posts (preferably galvanized, although painted ones will easily last 15-20 years). The cross-section of a T-post is just like it's name & the will rarely, if ever, be affected by high winds, especially if you engineer it & brace the corners properly. The corners/braces (& the supports every 100') are 4" 'thick-walled' pipe concreted in 6' deep, & the net-wire is designed to 'close up around any 'penetrating object'. In essence, the fence was engineered to stop a charging 3000 lb. bull. Don't forget to install a strand of gaucho wire top & bottom.

Mine have stood the test of both time & sustained hurricane-force winds, deer, feral hogs, as well as cattle. For cost purposes, mine ran about $10/ft. Good luck with your project!

I read some posts that seemed to mirror my experience with cheap netting tearing with any little branch, caught shoe buckle, or errant weed whacker. However, deer in our area are too lazy to jump 7', especially into a small enclosed space. So, I just need a deterrent, as much for people as deer! I have read about rolls of a type of netting that is supposed to be stronger than the other stuff. There are three levels or options, but I think one of the two lesser would suffice. Has anyone used both, or either of Heavy Duty Tenax C-flex, 80 (Ironically, their "heavy duty" is their light fencing) and Extra Strength Tenax C-flex P, 110 g (the P stands for "professional" I was told. The 80 g and 110 g are pounds of force they can withstand per square foot....but what does that really mean? Any thoughts out there on these "stronger" nets, any experience with them? Supposedly they are stronger than other "discount" netting I have used with frustrating results in the past (more like bird netting than deer netting!!). Thanks

another thing that I think helps with early blight is to spray with the organic spray Soap Shield from Gardens Alive. I usually spray as directed until early July, by which time my plants are just too big. While this doesn't prevent EB, it seems to hold it off some.

There are a few new varieties with decent resistance to both early and late blight, most from Randy Gardner's breeding program at NC state. Last year I grew Plum Regal as my paste tomato and it was pretty awesome. Mountain Magic (cherry) is unstoppable, too. Haven't tried the slicers, Sophie's Choice and Iron Lady.

Thanks elisa. I'll be back on when I feel comfortable.

i did NOT read all the posts.. but i wont let that stop me.. lol ...

i would NEVER... throw away one year old seed ...

not to mention.. they germinate very fast ... so plant them in spring ... and if in 2 weeks ... they dont pop ... go buy another pack ...

or better yet ... come late in winter.. germinate one or two.. and FIND out ...

the only caveat.. is if you mail order seed .. rather than purchase locally ... then i suppose you need to plan ahead... but you could still germ one or two right now ... just for fun.. to see if right now.. they are still good ... then eat the sprout ... what the heck .. knowledge is power... we are all guessing right now ....

if anyone else said such.. along the sames lines.. they are genius.. lol ... great minds think alike ...

ken