23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
The people to ask this question is the company that made the product you sprayed. There should be a phone number or website address on the container. Call/email them and tell them exactly how you used it. They will tell you if/when it's safe to eat the produce that was exposed to the spray.
Always read and follow the label directions on any pesticide you use, most especially near your vegetables.
Sandy
I had a bad phone call with Berry Hill last year and sulked and didn't order from them. This year I did. Their stuff is superior and prices are good. I think the tape can last 2-3 years if rodents don't chew on it. I had bad gopher problems before and had to toss all the t tape every year. Now I have killed the gophers and the tapes are looking good. I am not going to throw them out. Berry Hill's accessories are much better than Drip Work's too.
As far as the safety of galvanized stuff, you might google that question, in regards to galvanized metal stocktanks. I decided to go with the food grade poly tanks, because some of the literature said that zinc levels might get a bit high in the soil, from the zinc in the galvanization process.
I'm a little further south, but have tried Lamkin. I didn't do all that well with it. Some of my problem has been soil borne fungus that cause mature vine decline and wilt.
I gave up on Lamkin and for something a little different, I have Burpee Early Hybrid Crenshaw which can do so well. I had a 22 pounder a couple years ago and they are doing well this year.
I grew one this year near Youngstown, OH. I got several melon varieties going from seed early and transplanted them near Memorial Day. The Lambkin didn't take, so I planted another seed directly in the ground. I planted the melons in a mound surrounded by black weed paper. I only got one Lambkin melon and I picked it two days ago (Aug 20). I was very happy with the flavor, but I probably should have left it in for another few days. I will definitely plant more next year, (hopefully by transplant to give me an earlier start). I also was real happy with my blacktail mountain watermelons this year. I also planted yellow doll and new queen watermelons. I have picked one so far and it was very good, but I'm not sure which of the two it was. I also tried minnesota midget cantaloupes but the flavor was not very good. In summary, I was thrilled that a directly sown lambkin melon turned out so well for me despite less than ideal weather, I just wish I would have gotten a few more.
This post was edited by Ztom on Fri, Aug 22, 14 at 8:24
Reporting back on Tatuma squash. Wow what a find. They are still producing here in Georgia in late August. Yes they get mildew, some pickle worm, maybe minimal squash vine borer. But they are so productive and keep rooting down and 'starting over'. The fruits are tops in flavor, if they get too big I just scrape out the seeds and pith and they cook up just fine. Smaller ones have tender seeds and edible centers. I don't even refrigerate them after harvest except the really small ones, they sit on the counter for days. I hear they grill up well but I've only roasted or sauted them. Everyone I share them with are in love with Tatuma. My strategy next year is to start a hill at one end of a row and just send it up the row - it is viney - and if necessary take up the old part as it gets ratty. When the foliage is really lush the first half of the season it's actually hard to find the squash in there, another reason to have a long slim row of the things. I've left 2 to mature - they say they also make excellent winter squash, and I want to save some seed, will probably save a few more to be sure there's no cross pollination from any lingering pitiful zukes, etc.
TBH, I've never actually measured how fast individual fruits grow because I have too many plants to keep track of (around 300 this year). But usually, the miniature ones take ~10-15 days and the larger Sicilian heirlooms like Rosa Bianca take 3 or more weeks for me. I've never grown Black Beauty. I'm growing a white-fruited variety called White Star that seems to be the fastest one I've seen - about 10-15 days from pollination to fist-size fruit.
Try to pick them before they lose their shine or start to get a little rubbery feeling. If they feel very firm, they're good, but as soon as they start to go just a bit soft, they need to be picked right away. A month seems like too long, they're probably not going to reach full size for that variety.
Wayne - it's been so long since I've grown them, but that pic Macmex put up seems right. Maybe I just didn't cook them properly. But it could also be that I couldn't get past that tomato-y under-taste, if you get what I mean. I'm like that with foods, unfortunately. Take cilantro, for example. I can't stand it - even the slightest bit in a dish can spoil it for me.
I just followed the link macmex posted to Sand Hill Preservation Center, and see that what he had was, in fact, solanum melanocerasum. There's a detailed recipe for cooking at his post, JBraun. Good detective work, Wayne!
samhain10-I'm a regular at Sand hill and this is where the seeds came from. I also used the processing from his catalog to process the Solanum melanocerasum fruit.
On one other past post I saw that someone had much better success by using chicken manure. I planted about 10' and had about 10 plants come up for me. Of those plants I only harvested 2/3 cup. I left one plant for next years seeds. The seeds had turned from shiny to dull as was recommended for an indicator of harvest time.
The recipies that I got online called for garden huckleberries in pancakes. I now realize that that is the common name for blue berries as well.. Anyone have recipes for Solanum melanocerasum?
If there is a significant difference in sunshine exposure, leave them outdoors. 21/9 is a typical late August pattern where I live and it does not impede eggplant fruit production all that much. They are more sensitive to cold during the early vegetative stages of growth.
You can try to create a warmer microclimate around them by laying the containers on a sheet of black plastic or other black surface. Besides, your concrete balcony will be much warmer than the officially recorded minimum temperature near the ground.
Carrots are Great tasting when planted now and harvested from TGing thru Feb. I find them much sweeter than summer carrots (Nanites variety). Just keep them well weeded and they can be used until the soil freezes up too hard. I also leave a few in the ground to regrow tops and bloom next spring for attracting beneficial insects.
Spinach is also good to plant now, after a brief fall picking it's very winter hardy and will give you another early picking next March.
Others goodies are collards, beets, kale, turnips, and broc & cabbage (both as transplants). For the first time I planted lettuce and peas this past week to see if they do well here in my Z-7 local.
If you are talking about fungal-type diseases, you need to realize that they are the toughest of diseases to treat, whether you mind poisons or not. Also, the metallic carbonates are true chemicals, not placebos. They deter by making the environment not so hospitable for the spores, and they add nothing toxic to humans.
Buying harsher chemicals will probably be a waste of money. Not every productive remedy involves clobbering the problem with a sledge hammer.
Here are some of the products I refer to:
Previcur Flex (propamocarb, Bayer)
Tanos (fenamidone + cymoxanil, DuPont)
Ranman (cyazofamid, FMC)
Gavel (zoxamide + mancozeb, Dow AgroSciences).
These are claimed to have some curative properties against DM, that I wonder about.
Well, I got a few tomatoes before the late blight got them, but with all the rain in central PA, I have had a really hard time. Peppers just can't keep up with the rain and the onions almost rotted in the field. My beans are doing pretty well, but they were planted on the highest and droughtiest part of the garden. Maybe that helped? *shrug* About the only good thing about all the rain is that the lettuce hasn't bolted. Small favors, eh?
I agree. Way too many plants in one smallish container. A 2.5' diameter pot should grow one tomato or one or two cucumber plants only. And probably way too much water as well, depending on the drainage properties of the medium.
Do you have both male and female flowers? If you do and the fruit is aborting, you have a pollination problem. Yes, most likely due to the use of Sevin. No bees... no cucumbers.
The foliage in the picture you posted looks like plants at the end of their life span, unfortunately. More likely that than a disease or bug problem.
AinhoaNY wrote: " bought the Portuguese kale seeds distributed by Franchi of Italy. I bought them at Seeds of Italy This would be Galega de Folhas Lisas...which also reminded me of caldo gallego :-) http://www.growitalian.com/kale-galega-de-folhas-lisas-smooth-green-leaf-35-11/";
That actually looks pretty similar to the Italian broccoli 'Spigariello' which is grown for its leaves instead of the heads:
http://www.veggiegardeningtips.com/wp-content/uploads/2006/10/Leaf-Broccoli-Plant-Photo.jpg
I got mine at Harbor Freight. $5 Cheap, but they're cheap...lol So cheap, I picked up 2.
Maybe Walmart, definitely Home Depot.
Yes. It is sorta satisfying.
Kevin
This post was edited by woohooman on Fri, Aug 22, 14 at 22:20
I needed one of those hand held bug zappers just to walk near my tree line... the deer flies were horrible this year. Bought another to carry with me in the garden; now that everything has grown, the mosquitoes are horrible. Had wasps in the play set, bumped their nest & zapped them as they came out. A couple of swipes wipes out anything flying in the vicinity. IMO, one of the better recent inventions for gardeners & those who spend a lot of time outdoors.
I guess the really weird question is how I put up with the bugs for so many years without one. Sure beats putting a butterfly net over my head. ;-)