24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

Like Dave said, that shape points squarely at inconsistent watering. Zukes don't seem to have very deep roots, and I grow the stuff in full sun, arid-everything, hot temps, heavy OM, and lots of mulch. They grow wonky if the watering is inconsistent, so in these conditions, automatic drip is the key.

Hi. Newbie here searching for a solution described in this thread. What is P & K ? I use newspaper and grass clippings in my garden to keep down the weeds. I was thinking too much nitrogen was my issue. Now thinking the spacing. Soil sems pretty packed too. Should I till in some sand? This is my first time trying radishes. Thanks

Hi Koz - is radishes the only crop? If not how are the others doing? If ok then your P (phosphorous) and K (potassium) levels are likely fine. Plant spacing (over-crowded) and maybe too much N (nitrogen) are the most likely problems. Be sure to this the radishes once they germinate to insure good spacing.
Adding lots of good compost to compacted soil is much better than adding sand.
Dave

I don't get wrapped up in measuring exact dimensions when I fertilize. Mix as instructions state, water plants until run off, and you are good to go. Been doing it this way for nearly 40 years and haven't ever burnt a plant yet. 0-10-10 fertilizer.....absolutely no sweat applying that stuff even though I wouldn't use it on my tomatoes unless they were coming out of the cages with zero blooms on them.


The stake or cage is for support and protection. One hard thunderstorm or hard wind can lay them over and break stems and as fruit weight increases so does the potential for damage if there is no support. Even the gardener walking through or overreaching can cause damage. If you choose to use a stake then the plant has to be somehow tied to the stake. The advantage of the cage is no tying is required and it gets 360 degrees of support.
Salad Slicer is a cucumber. It is the use of the word pepino that isn't quite accurate in its use - it means cucumber in Spanish. That is Burpee's effort at international marketing but they don't understand how to use it in proper context because it can mean something else in English and something else in French and Italian and Portuguese, etc.
So they way they have it you are growing "Cucumber Salad Slicer Cucumber". :)
Dave

Yes, absolutely for support and protection. They don't need any training or help to grow straight. Mine are two or three feet right now and I noticed they got whipped around pretty hard in storms or even just gusty normal Florida afternoons. The more support you give them the less stress the plant is under and less likely to get damage.
I am using the staking because I've got the plants in pretty close quarters and also it just looks nicer. I haven't had any issues with it not being enough support and I secure it with some loosely tied twine just every foot or so.


The "fuzzy stuff" is what used to be cucumber flowers, which are now wilting and falling into oblivion thanks (I think) to the cucumber beetles and their larva. I only saw one of them a few weeks ago and now I am seeing a lot of babies on the under sides of leaves. So that's what he is eating.


If 5 gallons and IF you can monitor the soil moisture levels carefully several times a day then it may handle 3 plants. Cukes are so consistent soil moisture, so water dependent however that I would only leave 2 plants max. Otherwise you risk bitterness, poor pollination and deformed cukes.
Dave


This is how I do mine. It makes fall cleanup easier as you don't have a vine tangled around a trellis - just cut the string & vine then dispose of the whole thing.
Tie the jute twine loosely to the plant then up to the cross beam described below. Then each day or when you water wind the plant stem around the twine - I was surprised at just how well that does hold.
It really only takes seconds to do the winding plus you will notice growth and see any problems early on.
The nice thing about gardening you can do whatever fits you and your space.
The below is taken from the FAQ page which was taken from Mels first book.
<An upside-down U made from electrical conduit or other pipe works well and doesn't break the bank (3/4" copper plumbing pipe used for this purpose is a little more expensive but very nice-looking). To support the individual plants, string is tied horizontally just above ground level and then vertically between the top bar and bottom string. Nylon is recommended to prevent rotting.>
I used 2x2 wood for the uprights and 1x2, 1x3, or 2x2 for the cross piece. I thought the wood was not only more affordable but easier to work with. I used whatever I had on hand.
I used a combination of sheet rock screws and carriage bolts (w/wing nuts) long enuff to hold the pieces together. The bolts will require drilling first and a cordless screw gun is always handy.
I used nylon string the first year after that I used jute twine which only lasts a year but did last the whole season and makes cleanup easier as the jute will compost IF that is what you choose to do.
I only ran a string down to the plants (tomato, cukes, or other vines) - I did not run one horizontally. You just wrap the plant around the string each day or when it is long enuff.
I am not an aggressive pruner by any means but I was really impressed how well this method held up to the hurricane winds when the plants were weighed down with fruit in Aug/Sep. So impressed I have used this method each year since 2002.
<Mel includes extensive info on this method in his book and website.> This referred to his 'old website' as that is when these FAQs were written.
http://faq.gardenweb.com/discussions/2766689/how-do-i-trellis-veggies
For more SFG FAQs...
http://faq.gardenweb.com/forums/square-foot-gardening-faq
HTH
Make the uprights no higher than you can reach to harvest or wrap - when growing longer vines I let them grow down the other side.

Zavor pepper if I am not mistaken are related to habaneros all of my hobs start out slow and seem to stay slow. Some other types of slow peppers are aji and bird. I am not sure what other peppers they are crossed with. Try a really low dose of fertilizer and see if that helps. This year I am trying some that where inoculated??? So far best hobs I have grown yet but no flowers. I am not sure what the where inoculated with.

Hi there TS once again! Huh, habs are all slow to grow and stay slow? Didn't know that, and that's a bummer. Zavory definitely has hab genes and I guess those hab are determining the Zavorys growth rate in addition to its flavor.
And the other interesting chilies I wanted to grow, aji and bird are also slow?
Then I have to be very, very patient :((
Thank you so much.
K.

Ive never grown that variety, but usually the leaf shape will change, and it will look way different. Then it will start to grow a stalk... I think thats normal growth although this late in the year I wouldn't be surprised if it bolts soon, considering you are in the same hemisphere as I am. Side note, I'm in zone 8a and all my spinach and lettuce bolted mid April.

Just a guess, but can cukes be attacked by squash borers? I lost all my squash to them last summer. Look for "sawdust" near the base of the plants. The borers eat the stems from the inside and cut off water and nutrients, killing the plant. It will start to wilt and no amount of watering will help.

<ust a guess, but can cukes be attacked by squash borers? >
Yes they can according to some sources but it is reported to be rare. And the symptoms would be different than that shown in the pics - plant collapse clear up the stem rather than just a few leaves at the base.
Dave


I let mine go to seed, and they self-seed and grow back every spring now. Cilantro definitely grows best in cool weather...spring and fall. I've tried pinching it back to delay bolting, but it grows so quickly it will try to bolt again the very next day. Perhaps try reseeding in shade to help it stay cool? And resow often.

Highly probable inadequate/incomplete pollination. This can be dealt w/numerous ways.
1) hand pollinate
2) (this is what I do, but isn't possible for everyone.) Plant enough plants that a few deformed, overripe, insect damaged, etc, etc fruits won't set you back. Plant enough for the bugs, critters, pests, weather damage, and you.
3)This I try to do too. Attract bees and other good pollinators. Grow more flowered plants. Refrain from pesticide. If watering do so prior to sunup if possible. This allows time for the plants to dry before the sun starts burning the wet leaves. It also helps with the bees doing their job. Bees don't like wet blooms and therefore if you water too late of a morning you may cause the bees to fly right in by. Also you can water shortly before sunset.
4)Finally, as you likely know: good, fertile, healthy soil covers up a multitude of sins.
Hope this helps.


My straw mulch sprouted too (and yes it was straw, not hay). I may age the straw before using it from now on. Pulling grass-like sprouts from my whole garden is not my idea of a good time.
I don't think the asparagus will like it very much. I am tempted to remove it, and starting over, as some of it is rooting in the soil.