23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

I planted about 20 feet of one of the Jerseys at least 12 years ago and they are all male; I've never had a single seedling.

I can say I appreciate the information on the Mellenium variety. I have some of the Jersey varieties and will be preparing a new bed and was considering the Mellenium. The fact it is slightly later is a plus for me as my spears often get nipped by late frost.

Peter, you will get only one harvest season from the plants. I start seeds the first week of June for harvest in Oct and Nov.

Spring seedlings "blast" in midsummer due to hot weather and there is nothing to harvest -- waste of time and space.

As I said, the idea was to try and get to harvest before the midsummer heat, by using an 80 day variety and starting indoors well ahead of time. We'll see if I will try, only if I have the extra space.

I am trying Honey Bear for the first time this year. I only have 1 plant. I currently have 4 fruits - I pulled one with worms in it, the other 3 look ok so far. My question is, how do I know when they are ready to be harvested?

Thanks
Kostar

Is this squash any good? We planted Table Queen Bush Acorns this year and we got early, small, not sweet but a delicious nutty flavor that we really enjoyed. We wanted to plant the same thing next year but Johnny's doesn't have it. I do see they have this bush squash. Does it have a similar nutty flavor? PM resistance is good as PM eventually killed all my acorns.

They have two other "semi-bush" varieties.... not sure what "semi-bush" is but we need these to be bush to fit into the space allocated.

What about Table Princess they have at Pinetree... what's the difference to Table Queen?

I think I am going to need to order from Pinetree.... Johnnys has some awesome varieties but too expensive to buy everything there.

This post was edited by Peter1142 on Sat, Dec 6, 14 at 11:24

till them so the bacteria are injected, and BW roots get chopped. They are very distinctive, black outside, yellow wood. IME it is only near big roots that juglone lasts.

I dug the soil closest to the stump, about 2' deep. Then I dug the trenches to plant the crowns. I'll leave the trench open for the winter and plant the crowns next spring.

I only found a couple of large roots, about 1/2" diameter. They grow at the top 1' of the soil.....

Thank you thank you!! I will harden them first before transplanting, thanks for the suggestion. This is my first year planting, I'm very very new and need a lot of help! ;-)

I sowed a few broccolini and spinach seeds, not expecting much, and then all of a sudden, seedlings were emerging, just right before another freeze. I covered them up, and they continued to grow. Hope they will grow up.

I'll put some carrot seeds down after I till my raised bed. Thank you guys!!

Carrots will take a while to come up. It could take a month or more in cold soils. The spring planting date for Beaumont, Texas is Jan. 15 to Feb. 15. Your planting date would be about 2 weeks later I would think (Feb 1 to March1). If you plant earlier the seeds will probably just sit there. I have have planted in the fall and they came up but the plants did not produce until early spring.

You would want to plant spinach on 2 to 3 week intervals to give you a continuous supply. Spinach seeding dates are about 2 weeks earlier than carrots.

A good reference for Texas vegetable gardeners is The Vegetable Book by Dr. Sam Cotner. You can buy it new on the Texas Gardener website for $34 which includes postage and tax. Neil Sperry's Complete Guide to Texas Gardening is also good. You can get it used for about $4 from Abebooks.com. Make sure it is the second edition. It covers all aspects of Texas gardening, not just vegetables.

There are still quite a few sources to ship in early winter. The ground won't be frozen for the next 2-3 weeks. I just do not know if the gains out-weight the potential risk, if any. Or both would be minimal....

Considering you won't be able to harvest any until at least Spring 2016 either way, I'd suggest waiting until Spring. I planted mine in the Spring in NY and they did great.

Once the potatoes closest to the surface warmed some, many were definitely on the mushy side so those are compost now. Thank you for the help. I am looking forward to eating some of the good ones in rendered duck fat. Simple pleasures.

When a potato freezes and then thawed it will be quite mushy. Because the starch in it is decomposed due to enzyme activity. That is the reason for blanching vegetable prior to freezing to prevent getting mushy after it is thawed. It is easy to tell. Sometimes half of a potato near the surface might freeze but lower half is ok. Just cut off and discard the frozen/mushy part.

Seysonn

Also, please understand that bolting is not the "end" of the plant. In your climate brassica plants can live and produce for years. 3 or 4 easily, probably more. It would be more accurate to describe it as the beginning of the process.

Leave some to keep on growing for seeds.