24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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bart1(6/7 Northern VA)

This might not work in your situation, but I've had great success catching ground hogs by putting my traps inside the garden in the spot where they're digging under the fence. The ground hog enters the garden as usual through the little hole he's dug and walks right into the trap that positioned just on the inside of the fence.

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galinas(5B)

That's a good idea, if I only have a fence) My yard is 6-level slop yard of a duplex, and it is just 6000sq feet, including house, 2 sheds, and small orchard(front lawn)). So I garden in every possible spot - where I can feet at least smallest raised bed. The passes between beds are just enough to get through. I even use few feet of my unused neighbors' land on both sides(bribed them with veggies!). Only area I can fence will be less then half of my current space, and I am not ready to downsize yet).

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NilaJones(7b)

The big rubbermaid-type storage containers make great garden pots. Get a drill bit that makes a hole at least 1/2" in diameter (1" is better). Or stab their bottoms with a strong knife and twist it, depending on what your disability allows :). You want holes you can put your finger through, maybe 6 in the bottom of each pot.

If you don't mind the look, get some kids' wading pools and put the pots in them (before you fill with soil). Bottom watering is much, much, much better for plants and productivity. Add some BT grains to keep mosquitoes from breeding, fill pots with half compost and half whatever (potting soil, peat, coir, coconut, sand....) and Bob's your uncle.

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Jenna Gabel

Bksinaz- how did your squash turn out?

sjkly- your responses has been informative, thank you. I am a beginner when it comes to gardening and I want to keep our newly seeded fruit and veg in containers primarily indoors. However we have the option to place them outside. I keep reading that crookneck is the way to go if using containers for squash. I'm glad that you find that to be true. I prefer containers because the possibility of moving is high and I want to bring our plants with. We don't need to produce a large scale of squash, just enough for a family of three. Thanks again!

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mauldintiger

OK, I qualify as an idiot, went the laundry room, my squash curing are and found these:

Looking exactly like the BC catalog pics of Geramoun Martinique, a neck pumpkin and a flattened pumpkin, just like the description.

From the Seedwise catalog I stole this picThat looks like a 6x6 post to me, and doubt they would use anything smaller in a load bearing situation, so some of the squash pictured could be in the 14-15 lb. class. It appears some of the seeds are producing squash looking more like Seminoles. These were dark green as babies, like Seminoles and weigh 3-4 lbs like Seminoles:

So I guess the takeaway is that one seed produced these and another produced the big ones with baby butternut coloration. Some of the big ones are pumpkin shaped also. The same company sells one called Pennsylvania Roadside Squash, it appears from this pic that I could have gotten them.These are described as large squash with variable eating quality, hope that's not what I have, since none of mine are ribbed. Anyone that has any ideas or experience with these please chime in. Thanks

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zzackey(8b GA)

I think it might be a cushaw squash.

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Cindy Guy Bellwood

Yes. This recipe of 2 TBS. of Murphy's Oil soap to 32 oz of water was recommended to my by the Cactus and Succulent Society of America to be safe on cactus and succulents to kill spider mites and insects . I use it on all of my plants and have for over 8 years. Petroleum based pesticides will kill succulents and cactus plants, so I know i'm safe with this vegetable based oil. No need to add more ingredients and more oil. It works like an insecticidal soap and much cheaper. Watch out on the Safer products that contain Neem. Neem almost killed my Japanese Maples that I used it on. I think it will also damage magnolias too and a bunch of others. I burnt some of my cactus too. I don't trust neem oil at all.

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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

Neem is a great horticultural oil to use for a wide assortment of plant problems, both insects, mites, and diseases. HOWEVER, it can't be used on everything nor at all times of the year.

It is, after all, an oil. Japanese Maples are well known for being extremely sensitive to oil applications in general, but not to neem oil specifically.

I can think of no plant with a specific neem sensitivity, but plenty that require care when using any kind of horticultural oil.

Neem oils are specifically recommended for the management of scale insects on Magnolias. We just need to be watchful of the timing and of our application rates.

As always, following labels is important, as well doing a little bit of homework to make sure that we understand the ramifications of any application.

Any pure soap is made with an oil source. Coconut oil, olive oil, canola, corn, etc. The original soaps were made from animal fats. Liquid vegetable soaps can be found anywhere that sells true soaps, liquid or bars. I prefer to use a soap without artificial colors and scents, which can cause plant problems all by themselves.

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elisa_z5

Awesome - thanks, everyone, for the continued info. Now that I'm learning all about these "fall" squashes, hopefully I'll get more years where I can save them from the SVB.

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tcstoehr(8b Canby, OR)

I harvested one Delicata yesterday. This being a warmer than average year I thought maybe they might be ready. It was terrible. I didn't even bother cooking it. I could tell by the taste, color and texture it was no good. The outside color seemed mature enough but looking again I found there was no orange on the skin. There should be some background pumpkiny orange patches. Same with the Acorns I have grown, those should have an orange patch where they sit on the ground. Anyway, my Delicata vines still have abundant green leaves and live vines, although they are in severe decline. The stem on the squash that I harvested was hard but still green. Live and learn, wait til the vines and all leaves are dead and there is orange on the squashes and the stems are grey and dry. October.

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weirdtrev

It is damping off. Here is the Fact Sheet from Penn State Extension

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marketgardener

Hmm, I wouldn't have thought it was damping off. I'd never seen damping off produce such noticeable white mildew at the root/soil level. If it is indeed damping off, what should I do to prevent spread? I sprayed root shield although the next day everything seems worse. Of course, I had to apply the root shield via a soluble solution, increasing moisture on the flats... Any advice is appreciated, I can't have all these things die.

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donnabaskets(Zone 8a, Central MS)

Great ideas here. For my amen, I just repeat that too vigorous watering will drive the seeds too deeply into the soil, and I think that is the best recipe for failure. If you are really desperate, you can sow the seeds into a pot and then prick them out after germination. I don't think it takes any longer than thinning carrots.

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A J(9A)

antmary explained my problems with "crusting" of soil. I would imagine this is common. I now amend where I am seeding and that helps greatly in germination. If the soil is high in organic matter I have zero issues with germination or "crusting." So your issue may be more germination related and not water.

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springtogarden(6A)

This is all so helpful! I will be looking for the white frost on grass. I want my fruits to mature as much as possible on the plant. I too pick the tomatoes at first blush because I garden away from home. Thanks all!

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A J(9A)

Same here for picking early as well. Turning - spring and early summer; breakers for summer and beyond. I didn't even know the terms until Dave mentioned this. I pick like this because of the sheer amount of tomatoes weighing down the plant and keeps bugs away longer. All ripen perfectly off the vine.

Heirloom varieties and having high organic matter are the only time I leave till fully red on vine. Those are worth it.

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Carl

thanks dave. I think it has been more or less like this for a couple weeks now. Is that typical? The plant is still healthy and has plenty of leaves.

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donnabaskets(Zone 8a, Central MS)

That's a beauty. Be patient and wait for the stem to darken and the tendril to get dry. The skin will be very difficult to pierce with your fingernail. If you remember when you planted it, it typically takes 4 months to maturity. But this is just approximate. Wait for the signs.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Look up all the web pics of carrot weevils (a beetle larvae) and carrot rust weevils (a fly weevil) for comparison to what you see in your crop. They will both also infest potatoes.

Dave

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Sabrina Taschereau

Ah thanks Dave. You got me further than I was. It's true the description and damage caused matches the weevils, except for the jumping part.

I'll try to dig up a potato tonight and see if they really jump or they were just "falling off" after I picked up the potato/carrot.

If it's the case, I have nothing to do before winter to prevent it right? If they lay eggs in the potato or carrot and I pick those, I am picking up any remaining eggs. I just have to monitor the crops next spring to stop the adults from laying, but there is nothing I can do to the soil to fix the issue (I think).

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jnjfarm_gw(5a)

can't hurt, I don't know how much you have but use it up. it doesn't do any good in storage

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

I know quite a number of gardeners - myself included - who routinely mix their used container mix into their garden soils when it comes time to refresh the container mix. it is all good stuff for growing in either way.

Dave

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A J(9A)

That looks like a PITA to store, has less mass, and likely SVB may drill that long neck easier. Butternut squash looks superior to that and is great for long term storage.

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gorbelly(6b/7a | Sunset 32 | SE PA)

SVB do not attack fruit unless the vines are already dead. Anyway, tromboncino is pretty SVB resistant.

I've had tromboncino as summer squash, and it's delicious. I'm guessing butternut squash as summer squash isn't as good, since there's no real tradition of using it this way. I hear that tromboncino as winter squash is OK but generally less intense in flavor than butternut squash. So, if limited space is an issue, I guess it's a matter of priorities. Since winter squash is delicious and cheap at the market but the taste of summer squash really benefits from being eaten ultra-fresh and straight out the garden, if I had no space for separate winter and summer varieties, I'd probably grow tromboncino as summer squash and just buy winter squash at market.

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desertgardensonora(9a)

I finally found more 9a people! But...I'm in Southern Arizona so I'm guessing I'm drier over here.

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A J(9A)

@jctsai8b It's a trick to get you out there to plant. :) They are predicting a cool wet and stormy season for gulfcoast and florida. Jan-March unusually hard frosts.

I'm probably going to start seeds now this weekend for transplant (mainly cabbage and lettuce). Yes, I'm that traumatized from losing things to late heat.

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lilmermer

Ok. That definitely helps to understand for the first set of plants. Thank you very much. I can get larger containers, at least to try some squash again, maybe not the climbers. I also do have a drip irrigation system in place (previous tenant), though I didn't use it because I was trying the sub-irrigated system. Will the drip irrigation improve my water management in this case, using containers with standard drainage?

However, the second set of plants never reached more than about six inches high, including squash, and including those in new soil with lots of compost. Even at 3 inches high they were already yellow (after an initial week of green following germination). They only made small leaves, and they failed to grow further than 3-6 inches. In that case I don't believe it was space (yet). Most outer leaves beginning to die within days.

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A J(9A)

Any SVB holes in stems? I would use controlled/time released fertilizer if required. sub-irrigation for direct sow may also have been your problem.

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elisa_z5

very nice accident, wayne. Sounds like the mysterious thriving volunteer syndrome.

We just actually had a similar experience. In the spring I found I could order another 5 lbs of seed potatoes and pay no more postage, so I randomly chose Salem. When planting time came, I had no room for the Salem, so I threw them in the ground (outside the garden) in the midst of quack grass, no ammending. I never hilled, just threw some hay on them. Dug them today and they are the biggest, best tasting potatoes I've every grown.

Do potatoes just really like to be ignored?

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glib(5.5)

Ha! If I ignore them, they ignore me back.

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