23,822 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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mckenziek(9CA)

Just start over with new seeds.

Until they sprout, they must be kept continually moist. This may mean watering once or even twice per day (lightly). Once you see that a lot of them have sprouted, you can cut back watering to once a day, and after a while, you can cut back more and more.

My opinion is that most likely you didn't water enough to get the seeds to sprout. Sometimes, freshly sprouted seeds are eaten by birds, snails or slugs almost from day 1 of sprouting, but usually you will see some sign of the sprout or the culprit when that happens.

Bigger, deeper set seeds like beans are less likely to need twice-a-day watering. Small seeds, planted shallowly are more likely to need continuous moisture.

--McKenzie

    Bookmark     September 23, 2014 at 3:50PM
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Slimy_Okra(2b)

Agee with McKenzie. Sounds to me like you underwatered them. It was probably too hot as well, given that some beets and peas (more tolerant of warm soil) germinated and no spinach or lettuce did.
If watering daily isn't possible, increase your seeding depth.

    Bookmark     September 23, 2014 at 5:02PM
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Peter1142(Zone 6b)

Do pumpkins also get sweeter after a time in storage?

    Bookmark     September 23, 2014 at 2:39PM
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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

Johnnyseeds says that most winter squash gets sweeter with storage time, as carbohydrates break down into sugars. I understand that the process can be accelerated by keeping the squash warm for a few weeks after harvest, though that may cut down on the storage lifetime. Interestingly, the caratenoid (think vitamin A) content of butternuts also increases with storage time, so older squash are healthier as well as sweeter.

    Bookmark     September 23, 2014 at 3:02PM
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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

I'm in the same boat as you are. I planted artichokes for the first time this year, they got to a certain size and stalled out, and I got no 'chokes from them.

As for overwintering them, I'm going to pile on a thick layer of leaves later in the fall and then put a tarp over top of the leaves to keep them dry and to insulate them more. Hopefully it works.

Rodney

    Bookmark     September 23, 2014 at 2:00PM
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Slimy_Okra(2b)

What Rodney said. Mulch and lots of it. What kills overwintering plants in general is not the deep cold of mid-winter (which is typically accompanied by deep snow cover in temperate zones) but the freeze-thaw cycles of late winter and early spring. Keep the mulch on until the soil thaws completely and nights don't drop below 20 degrees anymore.

    Bookmark     September 23, 2014 at 2:05PM
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sweetquietplace(6 WNC Mtn.)

Peter Wilcox (aka Purple Sun) is mighty tasty too, and full of vitamins and anti-oxidants. nhbabs, have you tried Durango for a good-flavored R/W?

    Bookmark     September 23, 2014 at 3:12AM
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Orangeutang(10b)

I am in New Zealand now. There is a very good looking and common variety called Nadine, which is known in the trade as "Dumb Blonde"

    Bookmark     September 23, 2014 at 3:41AM
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mckenziek(9CA)

Well, there kind of is an air pocket unless the water is filled all the way up to the top of the gravel. And actually, there should be an overflow hole that prevents this from ever happening.

The gravel does not wick water. It's purpose is to hold up the soil (or potting mix) without wicking. Think of it this way: both the water reservoir, and the air gap above it just happen to be filled with gravel.

In any event, there should be an air pocket, in my opinion. I think the roots will rot otherwise. (unless you are growing rice or something).

McKenzie

    Bookmark     September 23, 2014 at 1:58AM
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farmerdill

Maybe depending on what other types of C. pepo may have been grown within a bee radius of the Jester. All the summer squash and some pumpkins with cross with acorns.

    Bookmark     September 21, 2014 at 8:05AM
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jonfrum(6)

You may get a plant that looks great but produces a squash that's not great eating. You can buy acorn squash seed for less than $2 - why fool around?

    Bookmark     September 22, 2014 at 2:25PM
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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

Eggplant and pepper are both perennial, so you can, in principle, keep them going over the winter. They are both highly frost intolerant. Light freeze and they're DEAD. Eggplant will shut down production entirely in temps like you're having. They like nighttime temps in the 60s or above. You may still get a few peppers.

I suspect that indoors, without much light, they wouldn't do that well. But if they survived, you could get a head start on production in the spring.

For container plants, protection from animals just needs a little chicken wire.

    Bookmark     September 22, 2014 at 9:20AM
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Rodolph

Dear Sir, i already read the article concerning vernalizing artichoke seeds a while ago. They mentionned two methods:
1: Seed chilling necessity
2: Plant chilling nrcessity

Concerning seeds, it is a very easy task to put the seeds in the fridge at 2 degrees celcius, or 34 degrees F for 40 days.

Concerning plants, you can put them in a cold mid shaded area from February until March, or put the plants in the freezer at 2 degrees C for a whole month, bringing them outside weekly for few hours to prevent rot.

I myself planted Green globe variety during last year spring, without vernalizing, and they produced during the next February, after having their chilling need.

Hope that helps

    Bookmark     September 21, 2014 at 6:13AM
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tracydr(9b)

In the Phoenix area, I've had good luck planting in the fall. The small artichokes acclimate and are big enough to make it through any light freezes with some mulch. In spring they always provide me with tons of chokes.
I'm now in NC and I have several baby artichokes getting ready to plant out in zone 8. This will be my first time in NC for any gardening at all.

    Bookmark     September 22, 2014 at 1:59AM
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WhereIwant2b

I don't know if this is what you mean but I have a number of beds with 3" pcv pipes below. I have an elbow and short piece of pipe to bring the opening above ground level. The pipe is buries 8 to 10 inches down, covered in dirt.
The pipes have holes drilled in the sides and cord threaded through. I pour water into the pipe and it wets the cord through about 8 inches on either side.
I have used it for three years with potatoes, garlic and strawberries to my satisfaction.

    Bookmark     September 21, 2014 at 7:51PM
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flora_uk(SW UK 8/9)

I agree. I've never grown watermelons but it just looks like physical damage - you get the same on other cucurbits. I think your first guess that it is from rubbing on the trellis was right.

    Bookmark     May 8, 2012 at 4:54AM
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maverick10

Hi im having a similar problem,please check the pic below and let me know what is causing it and any remedy if possible?

Here is a link that might be useful: sugar baby watermelon photo

    Bookmark     September 21, 2014 at 12:22PM
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floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK

My experience differs, Daninthedirt. But on consideration that's likely because you're in Texas and I'm way North of you. The OP's in Georgia so, yes, there's probably more light available through windows than up here. So I need to change my statement and add something about latitude.

I raise all my seedlings in a glazed porch with no artificial lighting. But it is always going to be second best in light terms to outdoors.

    Bookmark     September 20, 2014 at 5:43AM
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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

I think it's less a matter of latitude and more a matter of the window size and arrangement in the inside room you're using. Let's face it. If I'm on the equator and my picture-window room is badly shaded by trees outside, it's not a good place to raise plants. Of course, the yard outside directly under those trees is going to be no better.

All inside rooms are not created equal.

    Bookmark     September 20, 2014 at 5:58PM
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laceyvail(6A, WV)

That certainly doesn't look like aphids to me; it looks like the frass (poop) left behind by a caterpillar. And I have the very same thing on one of my chard plants--never seen it before-and there is some kind of caterpillar producing it.

    Bookmark     September 20, 2014 at 6:48AM
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floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK

The thread is old so probably pointless to add to it but I do think they are aphids. You can see the cast off skins in the photo too. Black aphids look just like those, at least the ones we get here do. There is a species which particularly loves runner beans and favas. But I've never seen aphids of any description my chard.

    Bookmark     September 20, 2014 at 2:11PM
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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

The adults are pollen eaters. Goldenrod is preferred, but will feed on other flower pollen in a pinch.

    Bookmark     September 19, 2014 at 10:45PM
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springtogarden(6)

I see. Thank you rhizo_1! I was curious why they were doing that.

    Bookmark     September 20, 2014 at 2:21AM
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farmerdill

Yep, cauliflower is a biennial. That is only important to you when you want to save seeds.

Here is a link that might be useful: Saving seeds from cauliflower

    Bookmark     September 19, 2014 at 2:58PM
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glib(5.5)

It has been too cold this year for watermelons. They are easy to grow if it is hot.

    Bookmark     September 18, 2014 at 10:53PM
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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

Watermelons like loose and rich soil, but I have raised my best perhaps in heavier virgin soil.
This year in central Indiana it has been cooler and ripening was delayed, but they were of large size.

    Bookmark     September 19, 2014 at 10:25AM
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