24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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Tracy West

I don't blanch it either. Wondering if it may be too hot in SC for summer celery?

I like the idea of perrenial celery. I use it cut and come again, leaving a few stalks on each plant. Makes the best chicken soups and broth.

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Tracy West

Nancyjane- do you just plant the root end of store bought celery or how do you start them?

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

<Is that a product I should start using now and all throughout the summer? Or once the plants start to flower, should I switch to something that has a higher middle number? >

Now, in a well diluted form as I said. But there is no need to switch to anything different later on. It is a quick fix remember? But contains everything plants could need in this particular situation.

At the same time begin working on your soil with the additions of more high quality compost and hopefully by late summer your plants will show you that they don't need nearly as much.

The long term goal is for you to learn in the meantime. To come to recognize the needs of your soil and your plants, and to decide if you wish to garden organically or not. With that decision, if you choose to stick with synthetics then it is all you need, all thousands of gardeners ever use. If you choose organics (my personal choice), comes a whole new learning curve.

Dave

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jnjfarm_gw(5a)

If I was you, I would get a bag of 10-10-10 and fertilize your plant this growing season. This fall take soil samples to be tested and come up with a plan for what is best for you in the future whether it is organic or conventional fertilizers. There is lots of choices. As a market gardener, my fertility choices are made on basic economics. I have seen too many times where people will try lots of different thing and wound up with tomatoes that cost them $20/ lbs to grow.

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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

Better pictures needed!

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Yuan Gong Hamilton ON CANADA 6b

So gross. Well, time to set the house on fire and move.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Ahh that's better that the beds are not planted yet so you can mix everything up well in it before planting. As I said above you already have ample fertilizers on hand to use - the Jobe's, the worm castings, the chicken manure, and even the bone meal are all fertilizers, all sources of any needed nutrients. Plus what is naturally in your soil. Why do you think you would need additional?

Fish emulsion is a good basic 5-1-1 fertilizer if you feel you need additional for some reason but it is only applied with every watering when it is diluted. Normally it is used in its normal dilution only as needed on certain crops.

Dave

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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

No No No on the chicken wire! It will break down in a few years, and the little buggers can easily get through something the size of a quarter!

Do you really want to dig those beds out again in 3-4 years and replace the wire?

Hardware cloth is more expensive, but well worth the cost! Some of my beds are going on 14 years without a gopher breach!

Also, about getting overwhelmed, take your time! Build one bed per year! Decide what is worth growing yourself as opposed to buying at the local farmers market or organic grocery. A few things I've given up on are Brussels sprouts (aphids), artichokes (ants and earwigs) and potatoes (just haven't got it down for some reason!)

What I usually do when starting a new bed is to fork down as deep as I can, break up the clay, add composted Horse manure, water it in, water in again, build the frames with hardware cloth, place those over the area, add some soil (we get ours from the landfill, it's a vege mix, so has compost in it) water it in, repeat til everything is filled in.

People scoff at me, but I also use those gopher "chatterers" and have had very little gopher activity in my vege area for the last 5 years or so (except when the batteries went dead). My other field is LOADED with gophers!

Anyway, gardening shouldn't be overwhelming! It should be enjoyable! Relax and enjoy! Nancy

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Peter (6b SE NY)

Perhaps it could possibly just be drought stress and overfertilization? Some closeups would be helpful to see any fungal disease better.

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jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

I think ran short of water some time ago. I.E.: drought stress

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weirdtrev

What do you mean by garden box and what is the "dirt"? Is it a pot or a like a raised bed? Many people use a soil-less potting mix in pots. That or if it is raining like it has been in MD for the last week, all plants are waiting for the sun before they grow. Lastly, if the box is one of those 4' x 4' raised beds that are becoming popular spacing could be a problem as well.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

With just that info the problem could be many things. All those crops in a "little garden box"? Size of this box please - H - W -D and does it have a bottom in it or is it sitting on dirt and how many of these plants are in it. Could you post some pictures?

The box is filled with the "same dirt used to start seeds"? Seed are normally started with a seed starting mix but that is never used for growing on plants. Specific name of what is hopefully a soil-less potting mix and NOT dirt please?

What nutrients have you provided for your plants? What and how often have you been watering? What color are the plants?

Dave

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gumby_ct(CT it says Z5)

Where the OP is (Zone 6b, northeast PA) it is a sign the soil has warmed enuff for planting (50* F). Beans should have no trouble then.

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mfran12345 (Zone 6b, northeast PA)

I'm going to replant the beans and possibly cucumbers this weekend now that's it warmer. I dug up a few bean seeds lastnight as they were very brittle and fell apart in my hand into a few pieces. I dug up a cucumber seed and it was starting to sprout so I will wait a day or two for them and see if they appear.

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elisa_z5

Also, your pot looks kind of small -- you may want only one plant per pot.

You direct seeded (into the pot) your new seeds, right? Just skip the transplant step now that it's warm. (above freezing)

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weirdtrev

If a plant is blooming to early, well it depends on the plant. And it is more about preventing that from happening than doing anything about it. If it is a squash/pumpkin/gourd blooming in a small pot to be transplanted (< 3"), then the plant likely is too far gone. You want to try to prevent that from happening by timing your transplanting. There are many various descriptions of when to do just that, however a good general rule for all plants is that if the plant slows or stops increasing in size it is time to transplant. As mentioned with those vining crops it is often best to direct seed, and you certainly don't want to transplant more than once. Now stuff like tomatoes are more forgiving. If you forget about them and they start flowing in a little pot, then you can just pinch of the flowers, stick them in the ground and they will likely recover just fine.

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lahunted_hotmail_com

planting tomatoes near walnut trees will kill them so will using mulch with a lot of walnut bark.

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Gueysh Art

Hi! new_gardener_girl

I am growing my tomatoes in containers because I do not have a garden I am growing them on my balcony. I am using wood as mulch but the plastic seems intriguing. what type of plastic you think is best? Can I use heavy duty garbage bags? Or is there a specific plastic?

Thanks!!

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Ohiofem(6a Ohio)

The thing on the main rib of the leaf looks like it might be scale. Scale will cause sticky residue and black sooty mold. Scale is much worse than aphids because the adult insect hides under a waxy covering that can't be penetrated by most insecticides. Don't over react though. On a small plant you can probably scrape them off with your fingernail or a Qtip soaked in rubbing alcohol. You just have to be diligent about getting them all. Here's some scale insects.

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Peter (6b SE NY)

No definitely not IMHO... a huge mound of soil is not actually helpful, and if you are burying 12-18" of good healthy foliage above what you already hilled you are only going to be killing good foliage. I am fairly sure for Yukon Golds you just want to prevent greening, so if the original potato you planted is 8-12" underground I think you are good to go. You can add a little more, a few inches, for good measure.

But hilling potatoes is often debated and if anyone knows something about Yukon Golds that I don't feel free to chime in....

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elisa_z5

I agree with Peter -- sounds like you have enough soil covering the spuds. In my experience, YG's do not set particularly high, so one hilling followed by mulch works well.

Grass clippings are fine for mulch. So is hay or straw (though in my area, straw brings invasive weeds, while hay does not.. Hay just brings the weeds I already know and love.) So if you want to cover the hills some more, you can use a mulch cover. I normally wait until after a good rain to apply the mulch, since it will block some rain, but also hold moisture in.

Some people only use mulch, and no soil mounding. So with hilling once, not twice, you'll be using a combination of methods.

Sounds like you're off to a great start, with them so tall already!

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aniajs(Z6 Reno NV foothills)

It is interesting, and I applaud your diligence in tracking everything. I keep telling myself I should quantify instead of relying on my memory of lasts year's production....
I think it's somewhat limited in use due to the fact that the cultivars are not interchangeable, i.e. you can't substitute a Marconi for a jalepeno. Nor does it compare growth habit and plant size with fruit production. (For example, it would be useful to know that of two bell varieties that averaged about the same pounds of fruit per plant, one took up significantly more room than the other to do so.)
Do you have any favorites in regards to taste?

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vaughnbjorkus

Wonder, Quadrato, Canary and Purple Beauty are all bell type peppers. The plants were all about the same size, and smaller than any of the other plants. They could in theory be planted more densely because of this, but in my test they are planted equidistant.

Marconi, as a sweet pepper, certainly isn't a substitute for jalapeno, but I do find it to be an excellent substitute for bell peppers, and this year have dropped several of my bells in favor of planting more Marconi.

I can't detect a difference in flavor of green peppers, so heat and texture are more important. Fully ripe is always more flavorful, but even then, the sweet peppers all taste about the same, independent of color. My tests were originally to discern what I thought was the best tasting pepper of various heat levels, but since the flavor is so similar between like types, it became more about texture and yield.

I don't have exact size measurements, but all bells in my experience have been about half the size of the larger plants (Marconi, Anaheim, Pablano). Pepperoncini and Jalapeno are in between the two.

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Gueysh Art

Here is a photo of my tomato plant.

Here are the spotted leaves.

I bought this fungicide, says it helps with powdery mildew, spider mites, flies, etc... for fruits and veggies, flowers etc. Use once weekly or once biweekly directly on the leaves and "run-off" I really dont have run off.

This is the fertilizer I was using. For flowers and veggies/fruits.

This is the instructions on the back of the fertilizer. I used as directed. Says can be used every time water is needed or once every 14 days I think. Comes with a double sided spoon. 1/4 tsp for daily watering per gallon and a 1 tbs side for watering every 14 days in a gallon of water.

I really hope these photos help to determine what I am missing and what steps I need to take going forward.

Thanks!

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Peter (6b SE NY)

Sorry that is some kind of special container tomato I really have no experience with this. I also do not know what your spots are but they do not look like fungal disease to me. Hopefully someone with this kind of experience can give you advice. Good luck!

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mfran12345 (Zone 6b, northeast PA)

Thanks for the replies. I saw about 5 last night. Not a huge number. My only concern is the spinach safe to eat after a good washing?

If I see more bugs I'll set up a trap to get them.

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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

In some locations, earwigs are serious garden and crop pests. We need to remember that. Click HERE for some good information.

mfran, you should set up a trap now. The arthropods that I mentioned earlier aren't exactly out in the open. For every one you happen to see, there may be hundreds that you don't. The traps are a good way to tell if these things exist in serious numbers....or not.

Of course, your spinach is perfectly safe to eat.

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