23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

Yes, the flowers are white, maybe 1.5-2" across.

Yeah, it's definitely a gourd. Probably a bushel gourd. I'm sure your neighbor will gladly tell you what kind it is if you ask.

Rodney

Thanks I would have to see what Home Depot offers and decide what wood is best. I don't want it to rot. If anything pressure treated or I will stain the wood before it goes in. The pathway I think will be with gravel to eliminate the weeds as mulch I have headaches when blowing grass etc.

Gravel is certainly another option. I like the look of pea gravel. I just like to kneel on something softer. [g] Pressure treated wood I don't believe is recommended for vegetable beds because of the chemicals that can leach into the soil. Same for staining the wood, unless you just stain the outside, which probably won't help much. We are leaving our wood without stain to weather naturally and we'll get as long as we get from it.

I tried using cement blocks once, thinking it would last a long time, but, I didn't like the way the plants grew in it. I think the soil became too hot and something was leaching from the cement into the beds, so I finally dismantled it.

Well, my jalapenos have bought the farm now too. Squash on the border nearby are fine, and tomatoes, a few yards away, are looking great.

I think I'll clear the area, do some deep digging over the winter, and try something else here next year. I can move eggplants here, and move my peppers around the corner where the eggplants are now.

I'm not sure eggplants are any more resistant to blight, but it's probably time to do some rotation anyway.

OK, pulled some jalapenos that were wilting, and the white threads of mold on the roots and lower stem are clear. It's blight.

Velvet leaf (Abutilon theophrasti) It is just a pretty weed.

You guys are great! Velvet leaf it is. Time to start weeding.
Thank you.

Looks like aphids

Looks like aphids to me as well. To upload multiple photos in a single post you first need to upload them to a third party site such as photobucket. Then you copy and paste the HTML link from there to here.

Rodney

If you have to dig up your onions, you planted them way too deep, and they will be very small.

Mine grow on top of the ground, and are very easy to just lift. Mine also seem to have finished very early this year , but they did attain a pretty good size. Unfortunately, I do not have a cool place to store them.

Guess I'll spread them out on cardboard in my shop when the tops flop over. (Some already have).

My onions are not fully on top of the ground, but are partly down in the ground. I like them that way and they grow to great size and soundness and are less 'greened'.

did both: I picked off and disposed of any leaves with white fly crop circles, and gave it all a good spray of organocide.

Now how do I make my hands not smell like fish oil??

Crop circles! Aliens! Ha!.

I have a few like that, but most have fallen over now [Candy). They are excellent again this year.

Do you grow from sets or from transplants? Did you change?

Shrivel? Have you watered them?

It looks like an immature spaghetti squash, which starts out green-striped and finishes light yellow.

That appears to be an unripe spaghetti squash.

By the third flush, I find the quality falling off, but they're still producing beans.

Last year, I planted bush beans over the July 4th weekend, and froze enough beans to last through the winter... I'm still eating them. The average frost date here is around October 5th, so with a frost date 10-14 days later & more heat than I have, there is plenty of time to get a good crop. This year, I planted "Emerite" pole beans on July 5th, and they are beginning to climb & bud up, so they too should bear well before frost.

Bush beans & English peas are good crops to plant in mid-summer bare spots, since they will not only give you food before frost, they will enrich the soil.

I agree with OldDutch that beans - like many vegetables - are better flavored if harvested in cool Fall weather. I usually plant my snap beans earlier, but when the weather prevents that (as it did here last year) I can't help but notice that the quality of late-planted beans has been outstanding.

Marijuana growers seem to know how to grow things inside tents very well. They could tell you about set ups...

There is a hot pepper forum too where a lot of people over winter their peppers and would have some advice for you

My peppers against my brick/stucco wall in San Jose overwinter outside and actually fruit in the winter (not near as much as summer). Still nice to get a few fresh peppers in January though....

Here is a link that might be useful: pepper forum

It's funny you mention that melikeeatplants, a lot of the links regarding indoor lighting related to marijuana growing but I ignored them figuring they would not be as applicable, and I assume much more complicated. That said I will take a look anyway and also explore the hot pepper forums! Thanks!

They probably mean that there is separate water source for irrigation (non-potable water). While we pay an irrigation tax at our house here in Boise, I need to set up a pump to access the water from the irrigation ditch, which runs through our neighbor's property. At our old house in Nampa, the sprinklers ran off of the irrigation water. The house was within city limits, and the irrigation tax included pressurized irrigation (so we didn't need our own pump). I also had a spigot installed in the garden hooked up from the irrigation water source. It's way better than paying for city water for watering plants.

However, i my comment above, I meant, more generally, that you'll need ample water to keep things going all summer, because it's hot and dry. I've moved mostly to soaker hoses and it's working well. I put straw mulch on top of the soaker hoses to help hold in the moisture.

That's a good idea. A neighbor gave us some soaker hoses that we will experiment with in our new home, along with some mulch. Thanks!

Thanks! So the speckling is normal or at least, not very detrimental? That's a 3~4 gallon pot. It's just the angle and the fact that the leaves shown are huge in comparison to the rest. They're about 5 times the size.

Yes, I've found that GC plants' lower leaves often end up looking ratty, yellowed or falling off. As long the plant is healthy and making more new leaves than those being lost, I wouldn't worry about it.

But a 3-4 gallon pot is very small for a GC. Those plants would need at least a 10 gallon to grow well.

It is a vining squash so I would treat it as a winter squash. Wait untile it matures at which time the rind will be hard and it will probably change color, the try it for quality.

Thanks Farmerdill, I'll keep my eye on it then. It would be so nice if it turned out to be tasty because it sure grew easily with no disease or pest problems so far and it's pushing out a lot of fruit.