23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

If you have to dig up your onions, you planted them way too deep, and they will be very small.

Mine grow on top of the ground, and are very easy to just lift. Mine also seem to have finished very early this year , but they did attain a pretty good size. Unfortunately, I do not have a cool place to store them.

Guess I'll spread them out on cardboard in my shop when the tops flop over. (Some already have).

My onions are not fully on top of the ground, but are partly down in the ground. I like them that way and they grow to great size and soundness and are less 'greened'.

did both: I picked off and disposed of any leaves with white fly crop circles, and gave it all a good spray of organocide.

Now how do I make my hands not smell like fish oil??

Crop circles! Aliens! Ha!.

I have a few like that, but most have fallen over now [Candy). They are excellent again this year.

Do you grow from sets or from transplants? Did you change?

Shrivel? Have you watered them?

It looks like an immature spaghetti squash, which starts out green-striped and finishes light yellow.

That appears to be an unripe spaghetti squash.

By the third flush, I find the quality falling off, but they're still producing beans.

Last year, I planted bush beans over the July 4th weekend, and froze enough beans to last through the winter... I'm still eating them. The average frost date here is around October 5th, so with a frost date 10-14 days later & more heat than I have, there is plenty of time to get a good crop. This year, I planted "Emerite" pole beans on July 5th, and they are beginning to climb & bud up, so they too should bear well before frost.

Bush beans & English peas are good crops to plant in mid-summer bare spots, since they will not only give you food before frost, they will enrich the soil.

I agree with OldDutch that beans - like many vegetables - are better flavored if harvested in cool Fall weather. I usually plant my snap beans earlier, but when the weather prevents that (as it did here last year) I can't help but notice that the quality of late-planted beans has been outstanding.

Marijuana growers seem to know how to grow things inside tents very well. They could tell you about set ups...

There is a hot pepper forum too where a lot of people over winter their peppers and would have some advice for you

My peppers against my brick/stucco wall in San Jose overwinter outside and actually fruit in the winter (not near as much as summer). Still nice to get a few fresh peppers in January though....

Here is a link that might be useful: pepper forum

It's funny you mention that melikeeatplants, a lot of the links regarding indoor lighting related to marijuana growing but I ignored them figuring they would not be as applicable, and I assume much more complicated. That said I will take a look anyway and also explore the hot pepper forums! Thanks!

They probably mean that there is separate water source for irrigation (non-potable water). While we pay an irrigation tax at our house here in Boise, I need to set up a pump to access the water from the irrigation ditch, which runs through our neighbor's property. At our old house in Nampa, the sprinklers ran off of the irrigation water. The house was within city limits, and the irrigation tax included pressurized irrigation (so we didn't need our own pump). I also had a spigot installed in the garden hooked up from the irrigation water source. It's way better than paying for city water for watering plants.

However, i my comment above, I meant, more generally, that you'll need ample water to keep things going all summer, because it's hot and dry. I've moved mostly to soaker hoses and it's working well. I put straw mulch on top of the soaker hoses to help hold in the moisture.

That's a good idea. A neighbor gave us some soaker hoses that we will experiment with in our new home, along with some mulch. Thanks!

Thanks! So the speckling is normal or at least, not very detrimental? That's a 3~4 gallon pot. It's just the angle and the fact that the leaves shown are huge in comparison to the rest. They're about 5 times the size.

Yes, I've found that GC plants' lower leaves often end up looking ratty, yellowed or falling off. As long the plant is healthy and making more new leaves than those being lost, I wouldn't worry about it.

But a 3-4 gallon pot is very small for a GC. Those plants would need at least a 10 gallon to grow well.

It is a vining squash so I would treat it as a winter squash. Wait untile it matures at which time the rind will be hard and it will probably change color, the try it for quality.

Thanks Farmerdill, I'll keep my eye on it then. It would be so nice if it turned out to be tasty because it sure grew easily with no disease or pest problems so far and it's pushing out a lot of fruit.

The sprays you mention don't cure powdery mildew (well I'm not sure about the daconil and immunox). They only help to control it's spread. Which is what you've noticed. If you didn't spray the PM would have most likely taken over your plants and quickly. Once you've got PM there is no turning back the clock.

Rodney

Well, I have read elsewhere that PM rarely kills an entire plant by itself or effects new leaves, and this seems to match my experience. I did not spray every plant I have out there and some others have gotten it on a few leaves but it is spreading slowly, only on the older leaves, the same as the pumpkins. I did not spray the newer leaves either. While I understand that PM can't be cured, I honestly don't feel like I have made any real significant difference, only perhaps slowed it down a tiny bit. Given that all of these plants are now on their way out no matter what I do, I am kind of burnt out from trying to take care of them, and will be happy with the harvest I am getting. At this point 2 zucchini a day, about 10-15 acorns, 4 butternuts, 8-10 pumpkins (assuming they all mature, but I bet I can eat them green all the same, or use them for dog treats), I am already sick of squash now and haven't even harvested all the winter stuff yet.

What would be good for prophylaxis next year?

This post was edited by Peter1142 on Mon, Aug 4, 14 at 9:52

As I read through the posts , it becomes obvious that you may have no fruit with ONE or more plants.

My Own Experiment:

I have grown a SINGLE tomatillo plant at times and have gotten fruits just to prove wrong the theory that you need more than one plant.
There is no male or female tomatillo plants. So say you have two of them and both produce fruits. So WHO is pollinating WHOM? It just does not make sense.

Lat year I had ONE plant and started producing lanterns late August by tens if not hundreds. But could not get bigger when the weather got cooler.
This year I am also growing just one plant again. So far ZERO lanterns. But I am waiting and I am sure it will fruit later , just like last year and twice before few years ago.

I suspect that tomatillo is day length sensitive Being the native of Mexico, they like short days, not 16 hours day that we have here. Some how, either the pollens or the ovules are not viable at certain weather condition. It has noting to do with the number of plants.

First year growing tomatillos--three plants--I've had lanterns for at least a couple of weeks. Central Wisconsin & unusually cool summer.

Hey, Nancyjane, I may be mistaken, but I believe that downy mildew can be pretty much avoided in our climate if you use drip irrigation. The summers are too dry for easy propagation of downy mildew. I've seen people who had what I took to be downy mildew it on plants, but they were generally spray irrigated, or ornamental plants in the winter. I am not an expert, though, so take it for what it is worth. ;-)

McKenzie

The same is true in Israel (the OP location). I can not believe that he gets DM. He must be watering with sprinklers. Israel is about as dry as the Central Valley in CA.