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Found this handy mosaic info...
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Posted by Belgianpup Wa/Zone 8 (My Page) on Fri, Nov 12, 04 at 16:47
| In a library book: Mosaic Workshop by Emma Biggs & Tessa Hunkin.
In the back (pgs 142-143) there are 4 handy charts that I've never seen anywhere, listing concisely what is best for where:
Adhesives & Backings - Indoor (broken down into columns for walls & floors, wet areas, dry areas for each, plus panels & tabletops)
Adhesives & Backings - Outdoor (Walls, Floors, Panels & tabletops, other, underwater fountains & pools)
Mosaic Materials - Indoor (Walls, floors, timber-backed wall panels, tabletops; sub-categories for wet areas, dry areas)
Mosaic Materials- Outdoor (Walls, floors, panels, tabletops, underwater fountains & pools)
There are so many backing materials, adhesives, & mosaic materials, it has always looked really confusing to me. I hate to spend a lot of time & money on something, just to make one mistake & have it fall apart. These 4 charts are really clear, the best info I've ever seen.
'Pup |
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: Found this handy mosaic info...
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Hey Pup, Didn't I just see you in the Hypertufa forum? Funny how things go around.
I have never seen that book, but do mosiac workshops. It is confusing unless you are familiar with the different adhesives. It's all the same as in regular tile construction and even more simple since liquid nails is the staple for interior and exteriors, wet, and dry, for adhering. The gout is another story. Jo |
RE: Found this handy mosaic info...
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| You need to have gout to do mosaics??? Hmmmmm.... Do you use Liquid Nails for concrete & tufa also? 'Pup |
RE: Found this handy mosaic info...
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| Ok what does it say to use on wood for indoors???I have a potting table that I want to mosaic as well as a wooden tray. I use thin set for outside concrete items which helps build up items that are different thicknesses.What can I use with wood to do the same???? |
RE: Found this handy mosaic info...
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Pup, I have not mosaiced tufa in the same manor as wood, plastic, etc. I place the pieces I want stuck to the tufa right in the mold and build on top of it, or press the items in while it is wet. No grout on tufa.
You don't HAVE to grout, but it does finish items off nicely, and it will keep water from getting beneath your mosaic pieces. Also helps to hold all your pieces. Bright, liquid nails. You can make it as thin or thick as you will want, then grout. Jo |
RE: Found this handy mosaic info...
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| Bright: "Non-water-soluble PVA or Cement-based adhesive with flexible additive (*note: some proprietary adhesives contain an integral flexible ingredient for use on timber backing)" and for mosaic materials, "glazed & unglazed ceramic, vitrious glass, polished & honed marble". |
RE: Found this handy mosaic info...
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| Ok what's PVA??? Sorry to be so stupid. |
RE: Found this handy mosaic info...
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| There is really only one type of stupid question: "Do you think I should look into this gasoline can with my lighter?" PVA is just short for PolyVinyl Acetate. There are all kinds of PVA glues, with fairly common qualities: they are usually white, dry clear, can be washed off your hands with soap & water while still moist, but when thoroughly dry, are water-resistant (not suitable for things totally underwater like swimming pools, ponds & aquariums). One well-known expample is Elmer's Glue. 'Pup |
RE: Found this handy mosaic info...
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BelgianPup,
Did you know that there's a whole forum dedicated to Stained Glass and Mosaics? |
Here is a link that might be useful: SG & Mosaic Forum
RE: Found this handy mosaic info...
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| Thanks, Kimmy! I didn't know it even existed. 'Pup |
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