i have a carmona macrophylla bonsai tree and i think it is dying. It leave have become really dry and there is not many leaves left on the tree. I water the tree all the time, what to do??????

It is potted in sifted oildri (diatomaceous earth) with a few pellets of slow release osmocote on top. The pot is sitting on top of (but not in) a dish with water and broken-up bricks. I have a hygrometer that indicates the local humidity is around 65%, so I think that must be helpful. I also have a somewhat rudimentary "fertility" tester that indicates the potting mix to be "just right". The level of detail it can provide is laughable, but it's better than nothing I guess.

Anyhow, many of the leaves have slowly dropped since I got it (similar to poster's issue). Additional details would be the leaves seem to almost dry out. They will be fine and green and then start to get crispy, develop dark burn-looking spots that spread, and then the leaves sever themselves above their stems. I mist each day to help keep humidity up, and water not less than once every two-three days (the oildri does an ok job of indicating the need for water).

My main problem with growing an indoor bonsai is I have almost no good windows with sun exposure (oddly enough). Perhaps this lack of light is my problem (and the original poster's as well)? Thanks again.

I also plan on using the dynamite CRF fertilizer. seems like it has alot more beneficial things compared to the osmocote.

Thank you for your help, everyone here is great.

I will also use more pine bark in the mix compared to the grit also. thanks alot you have been very helpful.

In regards to the "fertility" tester - I know it's pretty ridiculous that it could tell me the absolute truth, but I figured it could be slightly better than nothing. The device is a simple ph tester that also has a "fertility" mode that I suppose takes some measure of the npk values and the ratios thereof. The device is actually discussed here: http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/soil/msg0310034117290.html

- a forum on gardenweb I didn't know existed until just now, actually! Just thought it might be helpful to provide that clarification. Thanks again - Ill let you know if the little guy comes out of his stooper.

so I will use the full strength of the balanced fertilizer just extend the time between fertilizing.

thank you. I will get the other two ingredients to finish off al's gritty mix and will be able to put my fukien in a better aerated soil.

I know what its in is doing ok but i would think that this mix will make it do so much better in the long run.
The vendor told me he put it in what its in early january(although im not sure why since this is suppose to happen in the spring i thought).

Knowing this would you advice waiting till next spring to replant? the soil still feels wet to the touch on top and ive had it for a week!

Ill keep you posted on how it adjusts. I have heard that a repot can prompt loss of foliage but it will return so im not to worried. It can only improve compared to what its in right!

Amanda

I am forgetful when it comes to weekly or so fertilizers.so i am confident they work if used correctly.

How long does it normally take for a plant to "settle" into its new environment so to speak?

im not sure if anyone here would know the answer to this question but several of my bark piece settled on top, is that going to affect the overal performance of the mix?

The roots of the tree need three important ingredients in order for the tree to keep healthy:
1. water to provide the tree with sufficient moist.
2. fertilizer to provide the tree with sufficient nutrients.
And the last but most important one is AIR!!!! lot's and lot's of AIR is needed to provide the roots with oxigen and keep them healthy and to keep them from rotting. In order to provide these roots with sufficient air, off course a good loose and heavily draining potting-mix is needed to let the air flowing around freely. But even if a good draining potting-mix is used overwatering can still be a major problem, even when giving very little amounts. This is how:
When you water your tree very often with a small splash of water. the ground will be moist all the time, blocking the airflow inside the pot. All the airpockets inside the ground will eventually be filled with old air which contains no oxigen.
It is way better to water your tree at a point where the ground is ALMOST drying out and then give it a BIG SPLASH OF WATER. This way all the airpockets inside the pot will be filled with water. once the excess water is drained out, new air full of oxigen is drawn in again. Allow the ground to ALMOST dry out again and repeat the process.
Give special notes to ALMOST and never let the soil to dry out completely!

On the dutch bonsai forum a topic raised that many good bonsai forums have become anxiously silent these days, mainly because of the winter, but also in an overall way. I don't know about this forum, but I found it's a pity that these forums are dying out. As a response I decided to become a member of this forum again because there a view nice topics going on here. I will try and hold me in a bit.

Back on-topic, I found that many people buying their first bonsai(s) are anxiously sitting next to it with a bottle of water to water it the moment they see a slight variation in soil color appearing. "almost dry out" in their perspective mostly means a fairly moist soil in ours. I also stated that one should NEVER, EVER let the soil dry out completely as this would most definitely cause the tree to DIE! You're absolutely right about that!

One thing I have noticed though is about 1/4 of the leaves or less have small black BUMPS. It doesnt appear as though the leaf itself is turning black just a growth of black bumps along the underside of the leaves. I have not seen it appear on the top of the leaves yet though. Ive been searching the internet to figure out what it may be but cant seem to figure it out. any information of a similar situation would be helpful. I applied a fungus insecticide with a paint brush to a few leaves to test the plants sensitivity. After three or so days I see no damage to the leaves but the bumps dont seem affected!

Thank you for your time and help.
Amanda

If the climate allows it, but ONLY if it allows it, you should place it outside. Otherwise I'm afraid that you would have to come back every month or so to ask for help on yet another pet or disease to deal with until, eventually there will be nothing left to deal with.

Also, in referance to my initial question, if anyone has any helpful information on the black bumps or links to look at I would appreciate it.

Thank you.