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drursi08

How to prune these 2 unidentified Bonsais?

drursi08
16 years ago

Hello All!!

I was looking for some help identifying these two young bonsais I purchased from Home Depot a couple weeks ago. No name came with them unfortunately. There is an image on the bottom through the link.

Users here have pondered that the Bonsai to the left was either a cypress or juniper, and the one on the right either a bombax or ligustrum, but I myself am unsure!

My other question regards the pruning of these two. What is recommended? I am a bit perplexed with the Bonsai on the right, because its leaves grow so large (slightly larger than the size of my thumb) which makes it hard to get that "miniature old tree" look.

Any and all help and advice appreciated by this newbie to Bonsais. Thank you very much in advance =)

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:11709}}

Comments (16)

  • lucy
    16 years ago

    Juniper procumbens Nana and (probably) ginseng Ficus, but not cypress and definitely not a ligustrum (privet, to hedge lovers). Go to www.bonsai4me.com for help with the Juniper, and www.bonsaihunk.us/cultural.html (bottom half of pg) for the ficus.

  • drursi08
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Thank you very much!

  • drursi08
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    PS - could anyone tell me what the moss/peat-like material is covering the top layer of the pot? It used to be dark green, but I think the sun has dried it out, as now you can see it is turning whitish as if burnt.

    Thanks again!

  • lucy
    16 years ago

    It doesn't matter what it is - throw it out. It will compete with the trees for water, and to keep it alive, you'll end up either overwatering the trees, or else they'll never get to have any as the (probably) moss will keep it all. It doesn't rightly belong on either one and is just used to 'sell' the tree.

  • drursi08
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Thanks lucy - makes sense!

  • moulman
    16 years ago

    Lucy said...."It doesn't matter what it is - throw it out. It will compete with the trees for water, and to keep it alive, you'll end up either overwatering the trees, or else they'll never get to have any as the (probably) moss will keep it all. It doesn't rightly belong on either one and is just used to 'sell' the tree."

    Now Lucy,

    I in no way am an expert, but even I know this is just flat wrong.
    Anyone who has ever seen a bonsai displayed knows that nearly all have some moss on the soil surface for visual impact and "feel".

    There recently was a very in depth discussion of this on art of bonsai dot com. And the participants there are of the highest stature in the bonsai world. Most recommended moss for moisture retention as well as visual impact.

    If you disagree with the experts, could you share with us what evidence you have for your opinion - or show us your level of expertise with some pics of your work?

    Respectfully,

    Matt

  • lucy
    16 years ago

    Matt - were you born confrontational, or just learned it along with your wrong information? Moss that you see either in photos (books) is usually placed there shortly before pix are taken, and then removed, as it might look 'cool', but in fact... (what I said previously). If you do happen to have a tree growing outside, and it happens to be a cool couple of days with lots of rain, your tree might acquire a little moss on its 'north' side naturally, which is not terrible, but the majority of trees out there are normally in full sun so moss doesn't grow anyhow... it is not natural for it to occur routinely on trees, though lichen can show up on some evergreens in particular environments, though is generally removed unless you have a bald cypress, where it makes sense. Andy Rutledge (or was it someone else at A of B?) has some wonderful ideas about bonsai, but is also quite controversial about others, but in any case is a long time expert and unlikely to be growing mall-sai either indoors or out where moss needs to be watched closely for problems. Visual impact is just exactly what you get in photos, but day to day maintenance is another story and should be considered when newbies are deciding to keep moss on trees or not.

  • moulman
    16 years ago

    Lucy,

    If I don't think what you say is correct, that does not make me confrontational. And I was not referring to pictures of Bonsai, I was talking about displays, thank you.

    I came to this forum looking for discussion and to learn, not to be chastised for questioning your advice. But I see that will not be the case, so I will leave you in peace to play schoolmaster.

  • lucy
    16 years ago

    Sorry, I should have been more specific.. moss is 'layed on' not just in photos, but also for display purposes. And to be told I'm 'flat out wrong' about something I learned about years ago, from many sources, and which to date has not changed as far as (possibly A.R. excepted) any of the experts' opinions go, feels pretty confrontational.

  • andimia
    16 years ago

    I agree, the tree on the left looks like a procumbens juniper and the other looks like a ficus. Seeing as you bought them from a store like home depot I would recommend checking the soil.

    Most retail stores like wal-mart, home depot, or target put a layer of glued together rocks on the surface of their bonsai to prevent the soil from dislodging during shipping. I would recommend chipping the plants out of that and possibly repotting it. Those plants are normally growing in high moisture retaining potting soil, not the usually granular bonsai soil that most of the trees prefer.

    As for the moss....
    I usually tree-sit (or guard if you prefer) at area bonsai shows (mostly state fair and the recent MABA show in Milwaukee) and have personally seen beautiful trees overlooked for any award because of having too much moss, poor quality moss, or even moss on the trunk of the tree. I have also discussed with many people the various aesthetic and horticultural uses for moss. The moss in the photos looks like shade-grown moss which is too coarse looking for bonsai and there is way too much for the composition of these trees. I would recommend removing it for the simple fact that it's shaggy looking and will most likely harbor pests and fungus. It also very likely that the moss isn't growing on the soil surface, it was probably just placed there to prevent the tree from drying out in the store. You'd be better off grinding up dry moss and sprinkling it on the soil surface and have it grow on there from spores.

    If you are newer to bonsai I would recommend that you check out your local library and get some books on bonsai (there are many good ones out there) and join a local bonsai club if you can. Not only are bonsai clubs great places to expand your knowledge on bonsai through the knowledge of others, but most clubs will gladly help you out with your trees if you have any questions. My favorite part of club meetings is talking to fellow members about their trees and discussing ways to style and train them.

    Here is a link that might be useful: bonsai info at dallasbonsai

  • drursi08
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Thanks to all for the time and help!!

    andimia: I purchased some new bonsai soil from the web; I plan to repot the bonsais when it comes in. There was indeed soil and not rocks. Should I repot these two bonsais with this soil (see the link below to the soil I purchased)?

    a (non bonsai) Braided Money Plant I purchased from Home Depot does have these glued rocks you speak of -- I hate them. I'm going to work on chipping the rocks out and repot it.

    Here is a link that might be useful: amazon.com - bonsaiboy soil

  • drursi08
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    PS, is it indeed true (as it says on bonsai4me) that an indoor juniper bonsai will certainly die because lack of humidity, proper light and need for winter dormancy?

    Cant a juniper be indoors during the growing season (if kept in good light and in a humid room) while being left outdoors for dormancy in the winter? Maybe?

    Thanks!

  • lucy
    16 years ago

    Nope... you're cheating it of fresh air circulation (which also helps to keep bugs from moving in), of natural light from dawn to dusk (even great artificial light won't be half as good), of rainwater, which is the best thing you can give it, and of lots of tiny seasonal changes we can't appreciate. Plus junipers don't need added humidity as we understand (there's plenty outside though that they access as they need it) because they're SW trees, often from high elevations, and humidity's isn't something they use the same way tropicals indoors do.

  • andimia
    16 years ago

    The soil looks pretty good but has no organic material in it so I would recommend keeping up on fertilizing. Peters 20-20-20 mix works pretty well. Make a weak mixture of it and use it every week to two weeks or get some slow release pellets.

    I use cherrystone medium turkey grit and sifted peat for my soil. I know a man in the Milwaukee Bonsai Club that uses regular garden soil and has beautiful trees so It's basically your own preference and what works best for how you care for your trees. If you can, I would recommend adding sifted peat for the ficus, mainly to hold moisture.

    If you want to display your tree in the home stick to three days inside followed by at least a week or two outside. When the Wisconsin State fair show occurs we rotate three shows throughout the eleven days so that the trees are not indoors for too long.

  • drursi08
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Thank you everyone for the advice. I will definitely move the juniper outdoors.

    andimia: would adding a layer of moss or peat to the top of the soil of the ginseng ficus (since I removed it prematurely) help retain necessary moisture?

    Thanks all again for all your help with my newbie questions!

  • andimia
    16 years ago

    yes, the moss will help. you can also set it in a gravel filled tray of water (the gravel keeps the plant from sitting IN the water) this keeps the relative humidity up around the plant and prevents rapid water loss.

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