You should let it get a lot dry. The mix is actually the important part - if you don't water for a few days and then use a plain chopstick (or discreet finger) in the soil, do you find it's still quite damp nearer the pot bottom? If so, your mix needs changing to one with a lot less peat (that's what's holding the water) and a lot more grit, then water will drain a lot faster and be less likely to rot roots, making an 'accidental' extra watering not as potentially problematic. Your tree will survive a lot better going a while without water than otherwise, in general. And if you can afford it, get some T5 fluorescents and hang them 5-6 inches over the tree for 15 hrs/day... your tree will love you for it. Also stand the pot on some stones just above (always above!) water in the wide tray of the stones for humidity. I wouldn't play too much with the soil at the trunk base til you're sure you can distinguish between woody roots (which can be exposed) and new 'feeders' which shouldn't be. Go to www.bonsaihunk.us/cultural.html and halfway down the page you'll find the best ficus info. on the web.

Lucy,

Thank you. I know what it's like answering repetitive newbie questions, since I do it a lot on the rose forums.

So, to develop the canopy, you put the trees through cycles of severe pruning, rapid growth, and selection / training of the new growth. If I should decide to try this, say next spring, should I move the tree back into a larger container for a while so it can support stronger growth? I didn't understand before that bonsai are developed in larger containers.

Probably not a bad idea - I say that because while the general idea is to try and duplicate outdoor conditions (where trees have the whole world to grow into), ficus do prefer to be a little on the tighter side in their pots.. a little, so do keep that in mind. I'd be more concerned about the 'rapid' growth - that of course will mostly happen under ideal conditions (high heat, humidity and lighting) and 'severe' pruning, which again you don't want to be too flagrant with as some trees won't always bud back below their lowest branches, and because we're not all Jerry Meislik ('bonsaihunk')! But you sound like you're on the right track, so take before and after pix and in a year or so post them on the gallery here (with a note on this forum to alert us) so we can see how they're doing.

If you're doing a restyle of the tree then put it in a larger pot but if it's, for the most part, in the shape you want it I would suggest keeping (or putting) it in an appropriate sized bonsai pot.

Don't worry too much about a ficus dropping leaves, they'll do that sometimes if you move them from one room to another though I do agree with Lucy; the fact that the leaves turn a blotchy yellow before they fall off indicates that there's a watering or pest problem. The residue on the leaves is most likely fertilizer or hard water residue. If you wipe the foliage with a damp cloth it should come right off.

As long as there is no chance of frost in the forecast your tree would probably benefit from some time outside. Keep it out of direct sun for a few days as it adjusts to the brighter outdoor conditions. My tropicals always do much better outside, probably because my cat takes an interest in pruning them when they're indoors.

After four days with no water and double the light, it has expanded a number of leaves and dropped none, so thanks for the tips. I will double the light again soon. I can provide good indoor conditions with reasonable humidity (except in the coldest weather) and strong light. Thing is, I wasn't trying to grow the tree, but just trying to preserve it. I figured the thing was supposed to grow an inch per year, and then the master studies the developments, stroking his long wispy moustache the while, and cuts most of the new stuff off. Then he requires the apprentice to explain why he left what he did, and cuffs him regardless of the answer.

It has a natural canopy (with some trimming of course) and isn't that interesting to look at. Maybe I'll try do do something with it. What you all do is interesting and admirable, but on the other hand I'm pretty old to be adopting a pursuit that requires years to accomplish anything, assuming you know what you're doing, which I don't.

Michael, You thoughts are very common, but there is no such thing as just preserving a tree, without growth. It is a common misperception that bonsai don't grow, but in order to survive for years, they must continually grow, and then as you said, be studied and trimmed. Before you get dismayed, you are accomplishing something every year, every month that you keep your trees alive, and make all the little decisions that keep them, or get them looking good. Even if, as you say, you don't know what you're doing, you are taking one very positive step by seeking out information from those that supposedly do.
Don't give up!
Craig

Have you also looked at www.bonsai4me.com? Tons of great (general) info. there.

Yes, Lucy, I got that off one of your other newbie answers. Very helpful. Thanks.

Two weeks ago, inspired by one too many beers and running across a spool of copper wire, I decided to mess with my tree. The canopy had been cut back two or three times but was sticking up vertically or at 45-degree angles and looked wrong with the low s-shaped trunk. So I pulled it down all around into an umbrella shape, and wow, I can see how it might look like something.

Please give me some basic advice about wiring/training. I am not sure whether what I've done will have much permanent effect.

1. The material I am trying to move is mostly fully hardened wood (but flexible), at least six months to a year old, typically 1/8" or 3/16" dia. at the base. How long does it take to get this to stay put, or will it stay put?

2. One branch is 1/4" and pretty stiff. I have got it strapped down with a piece of electrical tape and it seems like the tension is still pretty high after two weeks. Is it possible to nick a branch in order to weaken it for training? (I am aware of the effect of girdling, but was wondering about cuts that would be a small fraction of the circumference.)

3. I have used wire that was too light for most of it and have probably wrapped too tightly and too closely. How often do I check for wire damage on the woody stems? The tree is growing, but moderately as it is in a bonsai pot.

I'm seeing a few leaves and new stems budding out back on the bare branches that have been bent, and tip growth of 1-2".