There's no need to worry about "root growth patterns" when selecting a pot. The size and depth of the pot, to a large degree, will be determined by the dimensions of the root mass after the last reduction/pruning of roots, but aesthetics can be made a player in that decision as well. Pot selection is generally made based on the growth habit of the tree or how it's styled. E.g., I can't see a lemon with its straight and angular branches in a round, oval, or a lotus shaped pot. Something glazed and rectangular, with straight lines, perhaps in a bone white, light green, or brown with light green would be my choice.

Some trees have a feminine appearance - smooth-trunked Shimpaku junipers or other trees with rounded lines & airy foliage are examples and ask for soft lines in the pot. Craggy old pines & junipers with lots of deadwood are masculine in appearance and look best in unglazed rectangular containers with straight lines, as a rule.

From a technical perspective, deeper pots are easier for you to grow in, and offer a higher % of unsaturated soil when the soil you are using supports a perched water table. Shallow pots, if the soil is too fine, can have soil that is almost entirely saturated at container capacity (container capacity is the water-related condition of the soil after watering thoroughly and the container has JUST stopped draining).

Al

Thank you Al,

This puts my mind at ease a good deal. I have not had any formal training, but I have read and studied where I can regarding the artisitc side of the hobby and a straight, rectangular pot is exactly what I chose for the very reasons you cited.

My only concern was that I know the meyer lemon is susceptible to root rot and since my pot is quite deep, I feared the soil in the lower extremes (despite my well-draining soil) might stay too wet too long.

Also, since the pot is rather narrow (5.5 inches interior width) I feared that the direct sunlight might heat the pot too much and burn the roots inside.

If these are not legitimate concerns, I will be releaved. If they are and you might have suggestions, your insights would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you again,

David

Shade the container. Use a product called ProTeKt 0-0-3 in your fertilizer. Its silicon content helps harden plants against cultural adversities like temp extremes, over/under-watering, insects, biotic pathogens ....

When soil particulates are predominantly under .125", you'll have perched water in the container. The use of a wick can help remove most or all of it, leaving a more suitable environment for roots. To understand perched water tables, wicks, and more about soils, the link at the end may be helpful.

Al

Here is a link that might be useful: More info if you click me ;o)

GREAT stuff Al,

Thank you