I read that 4X slow and am still trying to figure out 'why' you did some of those things. Aside from a scar on one side of the trunk what was wrong with the tree?

You really didn't 'wash' the soil, right??

Why would you re-pot it in a pond basket? Normal decent 'Bonsai' mix will have the same effect.

A good mix for most deceduous trees is around 60% screened Pine bark and 40% aggregate, something like your turkey grit, Haydite or coarse Turface. That mix makes for good healthy roots.
I've never used a rooting hormone on anything but a cutting but if you had it hanging around go for it. Normally if you make a good clean cut on a trunk/root whatever it will root without much trouble.

Bob

I am also worried about the time of the year.
The scar was a long shari that ended on the rooted roots and they were well rotted that is why the soil was removed.
I did wash the rest of the soil because it smelled bad. The idea came from "Bonsai Today" transplanting issue.
I have had real good luck with Water baskets on other trees including Juniper, Ilex, and mugo pine that where taken out of rubbish.
An idea I got after reading some of Vance Wood's articles.
Paul

The number of the issue referred to is Bonsai Today's Transplanting issue #17.
Paul

You're right about the timing, Paul. Now is not a good time to repot deciduous material. Generally, when you do an emergency repot or HAVE to collect a tree from the wild when it's in leaf, the effort is usually accompanied by a very hard pruning of the canopy so the tree doesn't unselectively shed important branches and to allow the roots to keep up with the canopies water needs. Essentially, you treat the tree as though it was a cutting. Shade and partial tenting are useful tools for situations like yours, too.

It probably would have been better to use fresh soil, but I suppose washing it might be of some value. At least you're on the right track & have the right idea.

If I have a tree that seems to be struggling for some reason, I often pot it in a pond basket, colander, or one of the Sterilite containers with hundreds of holes in the sides. It really works wonders to turn a tree around, or if you want to maximize the increase in mass. Ridding the rhizosphere of gases like CO2 and methane is very helpful. That the tree dries down faster and requires more frequent watering (accompanied by another change of air in the rhizosphere) is a very good thing - another smart move.

I think it would be very helpful if you treat the tree with a systemic fungicide. Tebuconazole @ around 3% is a very good choice. Bayer makes several products that contain Tebuconazole, but try to avoid the ones that also contain fertilizer and/or insecticides.

Soils for trees vary widely, but I never use more than a 1/3 organic (screened pine or fir bark) in my soils. A high organic component allows premature soil collapse and forces you to repot to maintain plant vitality sooner than the tightness of roots dictate. I'm in the same zone as you and I imagine that our rainfall amounts are similar. I start with a mix of equal parts by volume of screened Turface, #1 or #2 cherrystone, and screened pine or fir bark. I adjust the soil's water retention by +/- the Turface & cherrystone. I've also used crushed granite (starter and grower grit for barnyard birds) extensively in soils.

Keep after it, Paul. You're doing great. I hope your tree makes it.

Al

Al
Thanks for your input.
My soil 1/3 Turface, 1/3 grow grit, and 1/3 sphagnum moss. It was fresh made but I added a couple of handfuls of turkey grit.
The tree was placed near a water feature so it is misted at all times. Is this to much water.
Paul

I think that if any direct spray is collecting on the leaves, you invite things fungal. Most fungi that affect our trees have incubation periods, i.e. they need a certain length of continuous wetness to get a foothold. It's probably not a good idea to provide an environment in which fungi will, or could, flourish.

Did you screen the Turface. I think a 1/3 peat component is going to guarantee some perched water in the container (unless you employ a wick to assist in drainage). Unscreened Turface would exacerbate that condition. It's only a suggestion, but you might want to consider something like
3 parts screened Turface
3 parts grower grit or #2 cherrystone
2 parts screened (1/8-1/4") uncomposted pine or fir bark
1 part sphagnum peat
or leave the peat out entirely (I don't use it in any long term soils).

Al

I have had good luck with direct spray on cuttings so i thought I'd try it on this tree because of the roots that had to be cut off. This was tried before for a 2 week period on a Coral Bark maple and worked well but It could have been the continuous rain also.
Yes, the Turface is screened and I have used Long fibered sphagnum moss not peat moss. It has been cut into small pieces and it replaced the the pine bark that I use normally. I don't using peat any more either.
Can Neem oil replace the fungicide you recommended.
I also re-read my original message and to be clear I did not re-use the soil. The soil was washed off the roots and new soil was used.
AS you can see I like to experiment.
Paul

I've always been a fan of the Avon KISS principal...keep it simple. Art, design, illusion, health of the tree, fun and relaxation. What works, works, the rest is making it just too intense. I never needed a 'cook book' to mix soil, keep it simple. With a good quality Bonsai pot or training box you don't really need to resort to anything else to keep a collected tree alive.

However, the constant misting is probably way too much, more than needed anyway. Many of the best results are achieved by potting the tree up then firmly setting it in a good layer of wet Pine bark mulch until it begins to do something like put out new growth.

Water it up hard once, put it in the pine bark, in a shady spot, then sort of ignore it for a while till the above starts to happen. Don't treat it for a disease which isn't there or a pest that isn't either.

In the end, the chioce of making it enjoyable or difficult is up to you.

Bob

Paul - I recommended the systemic fungicide to help with the rotted roots. While neem oil has some antifungal properties, I don't think it's the best choice when there products like Daconil and especially those with Tebuconazole in them. Neither are particularly worrisome & are safer than things like Bordeaux Mix. .... your call though, of course .... and then there's the great insecticidal properties of (cold-pressed) neem oil ....

BTW - I treat all my trees prophylactically on a regular basis. They all get 3 fungicide treatments in the spring/summer, and the temperate trees get 2 treatments in late fall & just as I'm putting them up to over-winter. It makes a tremendous difference in the appearance of the foliage of some trees. Some of the more finished trees, especially the Shimpakus, other junipers, and pines get treated prophylactically with a miticide and/or something for sawfly as well.

Anyway Paul - it sounds like you have things under control & really don't need much help. Take care.

Al

Thanks for all your input.
The help you guys give with your experience supplements what beginners get in books.
Paul

Here I mostly let the food chain handle pests. Gekos eat almost anything, some bigger lizards handle the rest. The ants eat most of the mites.

I smoke so my cigerette butts are used for nicotine liquid.

In the end, I've had some friends bring me regular old Ivory dish soap. 2 tsp in a quart of water, sprayed over the life cycle of the pest, works well for almost everything. The biggest problem this time of the year, here, are wooly aphids. I started to use a mix of the above and 1/3 Hanoi Vodka just to see what happened...that Vodka is about 300 proof. For an investment of $2 a liter they die very quickly...and happy too!!

Bob