The foliage/bark looks distinctly like that of a yew, but the growth habit doesn't look like the yews I'm familiar with. Perhaps that's because it's been growing under stress for a long time.

You probably shouldn't expect to style a tree that's circling the drain in terms of its vitality, and obtain satisfying results. You need to get the tree into a good soil, get rid of the fungal infection (probably Cryptocline taxicola, more commonly called 'needle cast') and nurse the tree back to high vitality so it back-buds and you can chase the foliage back closer to the trunk ...... all this before you cut the first branch or apply the first strand of wire.

I'd be glad to help with suggestions on how to pull this off, but it's a long-term project, not something that's going to happen in a month or two. Let me know if you're willing to approach this in a way that ensures the tree's health and a good outcome for you.

Al

Al;Thank you for your response! I have often read your suggestions for others dilemmas and know that you offer sound advice. I will be glad to follow any ideas that you may wish to share in regards to this particular plant that was given to me as a discard from my nieces landscaping. I am unfamiliar with Bonsai but have many years of regular gardening experience. Please feel free to share any help you may have.I would like to save this specimen if possible. Thanks.Ross.

First, I would get a fungicide that has tebuconazole in it (a systemic offering very broad coverage). Bayer makes a 3-in-1 product that has imidicloprid (systemic insecticide), tebuconazole (systemic fungicide) and a miticide (I forget the name - T-Fluvalinate?) and apply it 3 times at 2 week intervals. I would also either get the plant into a well aerated soil or bury the pot, which effectively turns the container into a small raised bed (hydrologically speaking). This will reduce or eliminate the limiting effects of what appears to be a heavy soil the plant is in.

The long term plan would be A) wait for the plant to recover so you can be sure it will survive a repot. B) Repot into a suitable soil and begin eliminating unnecessary branches & start shaping. C) Feed hard & allow the plant to grow wild after repotting, but restrain the top of the plant - you can grow a top on a yew any time. D) at some point, you'll want to cut the plant back hard to get rid of the gangly branches. This should be in the spring or when you bring the plant in for winter protection after a summer of robust growth - 2-3 years from now, probably.

I can't tell if the lower trunk is as straight as it looks or not. If it isn't straight, you have good potential for a slant style, or even a literati. If it IS straight, you'll prolly want to do some carving to try to disguise that issue. I can't see the branch placement or trunk movement well enough to offer anything more specific, but I do know that making the restoration of the health of the plant your focus is key - it's hard to work a brownsai. ;-)

Al

Al:Thank you for your recent instructions re: my Yew. I will check out the nursery this week for a multi- purpose insecticide/fungicide as you have suggested, and then see what I can do about plunging the pot into the garden for an extended spell until recovery. Your instructions are clear and precise and I look forward to your input regarding this trees future. I will report back when these first steps have been accomplished. Thanks again Al for your time and sharing of your knowledge. Ross.

Copy/paste to your browser:

http://www.bayeradvanced.com/tree-shrub-care/products/3-in-1-insect-disease-mite-control

Skip the other product they sell as a '3-1n-1' that contains fertilizer.

Wish you best luck & lots of success!

Al

This tree in not a Yew, It is a Fir (Abies). The blue-green/white waxy underside of the flat needle like leaves give it away. Plus, at the base of the new growth (new stem), the bark is brown. On a Yew the bark takes longer to form and is green. I am a horticulturist from 5 years in college. I have studied my evergreen trees in excess and looking at so many together has been hard but has helped me point out the small differences.

Knowing the correct genus of the tree should help you care for it better. I do know that Fir trees need more care than Yews. Fir trees are much slower growers. With proper care you should have a really nice tree.

Good luck in your endeavors,

Gardener Guy

Al: I will search out this product this week at a local nursery. Thanks for the browser link. I will post again when I have completed these first steps. Thanks.

Gardener Guy: Thank you for the identification re: this ornamental tree. I only thought that it was a Yew because of the leaf similarity to another Yew that I have. Al also was unsure as to a positive identity as it just didn't seem to have all the characteristics of a normal Yew. I am glad that we now have a starting point and can move forward. I thank each of you for your sharing of your expertise on this forum so that we can all learn. Ross.

Al: It has been a couple of days and I have followed the suggestions that you made re: my Abies tree.I removed the tree from the confines of the bucket with the heavy soil and plunged it into a garden bed where I amended the soil in the planting hole with peat and perlite which I had on hand. I also purchased a 3 in 1 product but I must say that here in Canada we are restricted from using the chemicals that you mentioned so I had to purchase a product that is sulphur based and I have treated the tree with this. I suppose it will be better than no treatment at all? Now I suppose it is a matter of wait and see to ascertain whether or not the tree is able to regain it's vitality before the winter dormancy period sets in. If there is anything else that it may require please let me know and I will get on it. Thanks for the suggestions so far. Ross.

Only that if the soil where you buried the container is heavy (clay), it would have been better not to have amended it, as amending heavy soils (especially planting holes) tends to create the 'bowl/bathtub' effect. If you have decent drainage where you sited the plant, disregard what I said.

With a little luck & some patience, your tree should be looking pretty sprightly by this time next year. ;-)

Al

Al: I guess I was a bit hasty in wanting to help this plant. Anyway I think it should be OK as it is planted in a raised bed and there have been no drainage issues in the area. I will await next spring with a little excitement and trepidation. Thanks again Al. Ross.