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deep___roots

I bonsai...sort of...what do you think?

deep___roots
13 years ago

This is a deodar cedar. It was purchased at least 7 years ago at 50 percent off from a big box store as an after x-mas item. I put it in a redwood planting box that was 13 inches square and maybe 13 inches deep. Put the planter on my deck and the tree seemed to do okay. The planting box started to degrade (and ants had moved in) so I decided to bonsai. I trimmed the roots and fit the tree into a "color-bowl" plastic planter. I know the tree could use little shaping and branch removal, but one step at a time. What do you think of this tree and my efforts? Is it too big to be a true bonsai? I don't think it is a bad start and I think it looks okay. Thanks

{{gwi:19389}}

Comments (12)

  • larke
    13 years ago

    Hi - very first question - is there a large drain hole in the bottom of that bowl? Preferably covered inside with plastic canvas from a needlework store? Without that the tree doesn't have a hope. Otherwise, yes it's a nice tree, but now is not the time to have dug it up - maybe a month or so from now when it's gone dormant (as much as is possible in your climate). Anyhow, in about 6 wks-2 mos you could also trim back the long branches to be somewhat shorter. I think it has excellent potential as a bonsai, but needs knowledgable care. Have you done bonsai before? When you do branch cutting, take time to decide what you're keeping (including the lowest branch... don't cut below that one) and even wait til next late-autumn/winter to do it too. At the same time, it would be a good idea to get the tree into bonsai 'grit' for fast drainage, and there are many types you can use (let me know if you need advice here), because while it's a good idea to keep a large 'original' rootball with dug trees, it's also important once they're in a pot to have the right kind of mix to keep them alive there. Your pot could definitely be larger, certainly have a wider bottom half, to begin training roots to go sideways for an eventual bonsai pot and because it will develop more quickly in a larger container. For now, keep it in light shade rather than full sun and water only when more than less of the mix is dry in the pot.

  • deep___roots
    Original Author
    13 years ago

    I appreciate your comments. Yes, there is a large drainage hole and I used window screen to cover it. Yes, I used a very gritty mix. After I trimmed the roots, the tree fit into this pot very nicely so I used it.
    This tree had been on my deck exposed to sun and elements for 7 years so it is a pretty tuff cookie, but now it is on a table in the side yard in mostly shady light.
    Bonsai experience? Well, I have an amazing collection of (empty) bonsai pots, but actually bonsai-ing seriously is something I have never done. Thank you for your comments, and stay tuned because I have small oaks (quercus agrifolia) grown from acorns that I mean to bonsai someday. These have some nice multiple trunks...I'll post some pics and questions about them soon!

  • larke
    13 years ago

    Great - but window screen rusts, so watch out for it.

  • head_cutter
    13 years ago

    Yes, the better alternative to window screen is the galvanized 1/8th" square hardware cloth (wish I could get it here). When used to cover drain holes the roots won't go near it so the pot will always drain well no matter how root bound it is. It's open enough to allow good drainage while being small enough to keep the mix in the pot.

    Bob

  • simsedward
    13 years ago

    Bob
    Let me know I can ship you a ton of screens to cover your drain holes. We have a bonsai shop right by my house here.

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    13 years ago

    A Tokoname training pot with plastic canvas screen & wick in place.

    {{gwi:4260}}

    Al

  • mike423
    13 years ago

    Sweet, If you had a place to plant in in the ground to allow its roots to grow while you trained and worked on it, the trunk would grow thicker quicker and the tree would grow more vigorously in general giving it a more "old tree" finished appearance quicker.

    Also when you pot a Bonsai the general rule (with exceptions to special instances) is to have it a in a pot that's about as deep as the trunks Diameter and with a length and width of 2/3 the trees spread. This ensure both the optimal aesthetic appeal and functionally for the tree.

    looks good for a starter tree and seems to have great potential. good luck.

  • jane__ny
    13 years ago

    I don't want to steal someones post, but how would you recommend doing the above with a tree with is not hardy outdoors? I have a small Mamosa seedling which I potted. It needs to grow and it is not hardy in my zone.

    I potted it in a larger pot to grow on. Can I get the same results as planting in the ground?

    Jane

  • larke
    13 years ago

    Not the same, but somewhere in between. BTW, it's Mimosa.

  • jane__ny
    13 years ago

    Thanks, larke! It's the NY accent. So what does one usually do to get thicker trunks indoors? Just keep clipping?

    Jane

  • larke
    13 years ago

    Uh... did we just agree that your larger pot would help? You're not going to get the same result as you would if it were growing outdoors in its native land (wherever that is) because more is involved besides size of pot (or plot), but having no choice, just do your best - fertilize, water, humidify, and provide the right amount of light. But it will take years, depending on the species (of any tree) so just enjoy it as it is and know that one day it will be bigger.

  • jane__ny
    13 years ago

    Thanks,

    Jane

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