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New bonsai owner, Dwarf Jade tips? Pics included.

parabellum
12 years ago

Hello Bonsai people.

I have been wanting one for years, and just received my first Bonsai as a gift. Its a Dwarf Jade, or Portulacaria Afra by its formal name.

Here is a pic (copy paste into browser): http://i.imgur.com/fVTEN.jpg

I tried to do as much research as possible and I gathered the following, I'd love it if an expert could read this over and give me their input:

Watering: This breed stores a lot of water in its leaves, so its a bit more tolerable of dry soil. Top 1-2" should be dry before watering, filtered water should be given until water drains well out of the drain holes. In the summer this may be once a week, possibly as infrequent as once every three weeks in the winter.

Wiring: This breed is very difficult to wire, I won't even attempt it.

Trimming: As with any bonsai, trim as needed within reasonable limits set by plant health.

Fertilizer: This is where I need more input. I've read that it should be fertilized from spring into late fall (the growing months) with an NPK balanced blend. I ordered some organic 3-3-3 fertilizer and I plan to start with applying it once a month during watering and see how that goes.

Any other tips? Its currently living in an eastern facing window ledge in my office that gets plenty of morning sunshine.

Thanks.

Comments (26)

  • greenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
    12 years ago

    Howdy!

    The Portulacaria afra (Elephant's [Food] Bush) is an excellent bonsai candidate.
    Although called "Jade," as you know they are not in the same genus or family even.

    These plants, though succulent, do not like to dry out as much as Jades (Crassula ovata).
    With the proper soil, you'll be able to water thoroughly without any fear of root-rot.
    A gritty, porous soil of mostly inorganic material will work well. I do not recommend
    a peat-based soil - infact, I strongly caution against it.

    I fertilize from Spring to Fall with a fertilizer in a 3-1-2 ratio (Foliage Pro 9-3-6).
    I use a milder dose, however - probably 1/4 strength most of the time. During the Winter,
    I fertilize even more lightly, but I still fertilize consistently.

    There are some excellent Port. afra growers here, and I'm sure they'll drop in.


    Josh

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    12 years ago

    Soil choice is very important to keeping P afra from rotting off at the base & simply toppling out of the pot, and it's probably going to be the pivotal issue on which your satisfaction with the tree's performance hinges, so DO try to make a soil that holds no (or insignificant amounts of) perched water. Ask if you need help - to be truly proficient at all forms of container gardening, including bonsai, a good understanding of how water behaves in container media is essential.

    Like Josh, I use the 3:1:2 ratio fertilizer Foliage-Pro 9-3-6. 3-3-3 is a 1:1:1 ratio fertilizer, but plants use on average 6X as much N as P, so why supply as much P as N? All that does is add extra P to the soil/soil solution and make it more difficult for the plant to absorb other nutrients, particularly Fe and Mn. After the factoring is done for how P and K are reported in fertilizers, 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers come in supplying nutrients in almost the exact ratio in which plants use them. Also, soluble fertilizers supply exactly what they say they supply in the immediate. Fertilizers like your 3-3-3 that depend on soil organisms to break the fertilizer down into elemental form leave you guessing as to what/when/how much of any one nutrient your plants are getting.

    These plants like LOTS of light, so your east-facing window will probably not be enough to keep the plant truly happy.

    Water on an as-needed basis. If the leaves are wrinkled or puckered, you waited a little too long. Even true jades would be better if watered before leaves lost turgidity. No plant LIKES drought stress, though some are adapted to tolerate it reasonably well.

    {{gwi:3266}}

    {{gwi:3241}}

    Al

  • parabellum
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    Thank you both for the input! I really appreciate it. That picture of the little P afra sprout in the acorn cap is amazing!

    I inspected the soil this plant came potted in, by my estimation its about 30-40% porous rock, another 30% bits of wood, and the rest is what you might call "dirt". There doesn't seem to be much peat in it at all.

    I gave it a thorough soaking on Friday when I got it, and now on Tuesday, the top 1" is definitely nice and dry, but you can tell that the soil is still holding some moisture deeper down. That is a good sign I guess, as root rot and soil that is too wet is probably (given your input) the worst thing to deal with.

    I'm going to watch the leaves and the soil very carefully, and I'll also probably invest in some Foliage Pro.

    Again, many thanks and if anyone has more input, I'd love to hear it.

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    12 years ago

    Is that 'parabellum' as in 9x19mm?

    Al

  • parabellum
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    >Is that 'parabellum' as in 9x19mm?

    Yes, my hobbies include firearms, motorcycles, and tattoos...maybe not the classic image of what one expects when they think of someone interested in Bonsai. :-)

    Although, I also like the reference to the latin "si vis pacem, para bellum" which literally means "If you desire peace, prepare for war". It outlines my general philosophy on life that I like to try and be as prepared as possible for the worst in life, as this allows me to enjoy the best in life.

    I'm half Japanese, and my grandmother and grandfather kept Bonsai around their home. I'd like to continue that family tradition, I only wish I had thought to learn it directly from them when they were still alive.

    Oh well, enough about me. I've just ordered a book on Bonsai that was well reviewed on Amazon, and I've been doing a lot of reading on the topic. My god, this hobby is a bit like firearms or wrenching on cars/motorcycles, it seems there is an absolute OCEAN of information and things to learn. It seems that one could live a long life in devotion to a hobby such as this, and still never truly know "everything".

    :-)

  • parabellum
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    One more question: My plan is to keep this plant watered and lightly fertilized through the upcoming winter months, and not try to make any changes in for the plant at all until spring at the very earliest.

    If I was to repot it, what is an ideal soil mixture? I see that an inorganic soil is recommended, would akadama suffice for a plant like this?

    This plant is from south africa and seems to thrive in semi arid climates where the ground is very porous.

    Any advice on soil mixtures is appreciated.

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    12 years ago

    I have a number of P afras growing as prebonsai that will probably end up in friend's collections before they make it to looking like something I'd be pleased with, and they are all in a soil others on the forums have Christened 'the gritty mix'. It's a mix of equal parts of Turface, crushed granite, and pine or fir bark. I grow a wide variety of succulents in addition to many bonsai, and both the succulents and bonsai love the soil.

    Eventually you're going to discover that an understanding of soil/water relationships is an essential part of the tools you're going to need to keep your plants in top vitality. Your soil choice is a pretty pivotal issue, so I'm going to link you to a thread that's devoted specifically to media for container growing and contains a full explanation of how water behaves in container soils.

    The soil I grow in looks like this:

    {{gwi:1295}}

    {{gwi:4806}}

    The large volume of air this soil holds makes for a very healthy root environment, which is essential to a healthy plant. Over-watering is so difficult you'd really need to be working hard at it in order for it to be a factor.

    ..... ALWAYS ready to talk soils if you have interest. Meanwhile - take a peek at the thread I linked to.

    Al

    Here is a link that might be useful: Click me to see what he's talking about ...

  • parabellum
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    I have seen these soil mixes recommended in various places, now I'm trying to find out where I can get this stuff.

    Turface seems to be a US made answer to akadama, I can get that online, but the others (crushed granite, pine bark) I'm having trouble finding a source of.

    I'll keep looking, thank you for that link.

  • parabellum
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    Update: I found a very high rated seller of Bonsai supplies on Ebay that has a premixed blend of MVP Turface, fine crushed granite, pine bark fines, with a little coarse sand and a bit of sphagnum moss also.

    I think I will try a small amount of this blend for when I repot this plant (its in soil that appears to be very "peaty", which worries me a bit), while I look into locally sourcing the individual components. I have found a source for fine crushed gravel and the pine bark, just need to find the Turface (may have to go online for that).

  • greenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
    12 years ago

    Parabellum,
    I'm following the same principles put forth by Al.
    The ingredients that I use are screened Fir bark (sold as 'Orchid Bark' in fine grade),
    screened Turface MVP, and varying amounts of lava rock (scoria, pumice) and quartz (in lieu of granite).
    I also use screened Perlite on occasion. When I mixed soil for my Port. afra last summer,
    I used bark, perlite, and red and white pumice.

    The bonsai mix you describe should probably be screened/sifted to remove as much of
    the moss as possible. Also, if the sand is less than 1/16 of an inch, screen that out, too.

    Below, I've linked to last year's Thread on re-potting my Port. afra.
    Warning, it is nowhere near as nice or developed as Al's! This was a cutting that I rooted,
    and I'm slowly removing the older branches to replace with new, pliable branches that can be
    shaped properly. This summer, I also reduced the overall height by one-third.

    Josh

    Here is a link that might be useful: Portulacaria afra - June 2010 re-pot

  • parabellum
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    Hmmm...so the small amount of moss and coarse sand are not ideal for this plant?

    I'm trying to learn as much as possible, I guess I could see why the sphag moss might not be ideal, but the coarse sand is something I don't get...is that because it would occupy space otherwise better filled with air?

  • greenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
    12 years ago

    Depends on how 'course' the sand is.
    Basically, you want to remove any particles (sand, moss, granite, turface, bark) that are smaller
    than 1/16 of an inch. These small particles squeeze between larger particles and impede
    drainage, which causes water to perch in the soil (and drown roots in that saturated layer).


    Josh

  • parabellum
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    Thanks Josh, makes sense to me.

    I'll inspect this mixture and run it through a fine screen if there appears to be a lot of fine components smaller than 1/16".

    Your input is much appreciated.

    :-)

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    12 years ago

    Where do you live? Adding that info to your user info so it appears in your posts (like my z5a-6b mid-MI) would be helpful. I ask because I've helped a lot of folks find what they need through either my own research or through bonsai contacts here & there across the US. It'll be a LOT less expensive and you'll wind up with a much higher quality soil if you make your own. Bonsai soils are more about how they're structured & their durability than what they are made of. While there are widely varying opinions on what makes the 'best' soil, you won't find anyone proficient at bonsai trying to make a convincing case that, from the plant's perspective, a significant fraction of fine particles in a basic bonsai soil or ANY container soil is desirable.

    Al

  • parabellum
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    I live in Central Illinois, near Champaign/Urbana.

    Right now, this bonsai is an office plant, in an eastern facing window ledge getting direct sunlight for the first half of the day.

    I may put a grow light on it in the winter, just to help keep it from getting sickly due to the short days.

  • parabellum
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    Took a better pic, trying to figure out how to embed images here:

    {{gwi:19641}}

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    12 years ago

    For Turface MVP try:

    Tee to Green Turf Supply
    Savoy
    (217) 493-8512

    or

    Illini FS
    Urbana
    (217) 384-8308

    or

    John Deere Landscapes
    Champaign (217) 355-5249

    If you don't mind driving a little NW of CHI, you can get perfect prescreened fir bark from Oak Hill Gardens in Carpentersville. Let me know if you need their # or addy.

    For the grit - you should be able to fine either Gran-I-Grit in grower size or #2 cherrystone, either or both at rural feed stores that cater to farmers & those that raise their own fowl.

    You'll also LOVE the soil for your houseplants if you grow them.

    I hope that helps.

    Al

  • parabellum
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    Wow thanks Al!!!!

    I found grit at Prairieland Feed supply, on Rt45. in Savoy, IL. They have fine crushed granite for turkey grit, looks like the right stuff.

    My book on indoor bonsai came in last night and I read it cover to cover. Since I won't have a proper outdoor setup for a while (not until the spring at the very earliest) my interests will all be directed toward indoor bonsai cultivation (but I realize that outdoor is probably the best).

    I may also pick up a small Ficus to keep alongside this P Afra.

  • greenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
    12 years ago

    Hey, thanks for the pic.
    That's a nice little Port. afra. Should bring you much joy, and perhaps a little vexation
    when it begins to shed leaves this winter. Mine practically defoliates ere I get it back outside
    in the Spring. Here's a current (but badly taken) pic of my in-progress Port. afra...

    {{gwi:19642}}


    And this is a variegated Port. afra that I've been working on. Just gotta keep pinching....

    {{gwi:19643}}


    Josh

  • parabellum
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    Josh.

    Thanks for posting that info, when/if it begins to shed leaves your post will save me from making a "help!" post in here. My book which covers indoor bonsai cultivation (or at least, the breeds which do better indoors) didn't mention leaf shedding in the winter (but I'm not surprised).

    :-)

  • parabellum
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    New tropical mix soil just arrived. I took some measurements and there are almost no particles smaller than 1/16", so I may still screen it, but it seems within the proper specs.

    Mix of Turface, lava rock, pine bark, tiny bit of sphagnum moss and coarse sand:

    {{gwi:19645}}

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    12 years ago

    Looks great! As long as there would be less than 10-15% that passes through window/insect screening you can use 'as is' w/o screening with every expectation of superlative results.

    Al

  • parabellum
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    Thanks Al, I'll go ahead and screen it anyway just to be sure my eyes aren't playing tricks on me.

    I don't plan on repotting until the spring of course, I just wanted to have everything ready ahead of time.

  • daringduck
    11 years ago

    Josh and Al -

    Thanks for all the great info. I got a dwarf jade bonsai last summer / early fall and noticed the leaves getting really sparse over the winter. Josh did mention in one of the posts that this was normal. Nonetheless, it's already late April (I'm in southern California) and the leaves still seem rather sparse (some new growth at the ends, but not much mid-branch).

    I want to start fertilizing it and we have the Miracle-Gro Water Soluble All-Purpose Plant Food around. It's 24-8-16; same 3-1-2 ratio as the Foliage Pro you guys use. Can I use the Miracle-Gro? Should I dilute it more than instructed? And how often should I fertilize?

    Also, I've read a lot of different materials about watering. They're consistent in saying that you should wait for the soil to dry out before watering. So I've been watering every 2-3 days or so, and just a tiny bit each time. Am I being too neurotic? Would my little buddy be better off if I watered more thoroughly each time, and less frequently (perhaps once a week)?

    Thanks for your help in advance. This plant was given to me from someone really special, and if it doesn't thrive again, I'll be very sad.

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    11 years ago

    First, it's a fallacy that succulents like to go dry before you water them. Succulents PREFER an evenly moist soil. The problem is they react poorly to saturated soil, so if your soil supports any significant amount of perched water, you have a problem. Succulents gone dry suffer drought stress just like other plants. Fortunately, they generally tolerate that stress a little better than other commonly grown houseplants, and are able to recover. That built in ability to TOLERATE, shouldn't be taken as a preference. Plants tolerate a lot they don't like.

    If you have foliage at the ends of branches, you need to determine what's causing it. The big 3 are low light, low N supply, and root congestion. If roots are congested, it won't matter how much light or N you supply, the growth will tend to concentrate near apices and your plant will have that 'poodle' look; so be thinking 'repot' if the plant needs it, and around Father's day is a good time to do it.

    You can use the Miracle-Gro. It's a fine fertilizer for containerized plants. For bonsai though, fertilizers that get their N from nitrate sources are better because they tend to keep growth compact by reducing internode length and keeping leaves smaller. If you DO use the MG, you'll need to be sure your plants are getting an adequate supply of Ca & Mg, because they are lacking in the MG. If you're making your own soil and didn't use lime (dolomite), you'll need to address this issue. I won't get to deeply into it until I find out what you're using for soil.

    Avoid watering in sips. The practice ensures that soluble salts will build up in the soil, causing a drought reaction that could cause shedding of foliage and branches, or poor looking foliage and poor growth. Use a soil that allows you to flush the soil when you water. For bonsai, nothing else is appropriate and will lead to problems. You can review pictures upthread. Soils like Josh, Parabellum, and I use will all please you and your plant.

    A picture would be nice .....

    Al

  • daringduck
    11 years ago

    Thanks for all the info, Al. Ok, so it looks like I'll start with watering it so it's dripping reasonably out of the container bottom, and doing the watering less frequently. Ok, your big three:

    1) Low light
    The plant is usually kept next to our sunroom window with lots of afternoon sunshine. Did you say that the threshold was 56 deg to keep it outside? Or was it 65? I couldn't quite tell. My preference of course is to just keep it in the sunroom, if you think it's ok. But I have been taking it outdoors during the day lately just because I don't know what's best.

    2) Low nitrogen
    With the M-Gro, I'm thinking of doing 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water, once every 2 weeks. Or is 1/4 teaspoon per gallon, once every week, better? Since the plant is so small, could I make a large solution and keep it around? It seems ridiculous to try to measure 1/32 (or 1/64) teaspoon per cup. Let me know if you think the Foliage Pro would make a significant difference over M-Gro. It doesn't seem to be available in stores near me, but I can get it online.

    3) Root congestion
    As for the soil, it's just whatever came with the plant when delivered to me--my friend just got it for me because it was supposed to be EASY to take care of, haha. Anyway, I am hesitant to do any repotting until I've tried everything else; it would be my first time and I'm afraid to mess things up even more. Let me know what you think from the pictures in terms of urgency for repotting.

    I didn't see an option for uploading pics, so I've included it as a link. Thank you so much, I appreciate it!

    Here is a link that might be useful:

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