A picture would certainly help. I'm having a hard time understanding how a tree inside another trunk will show exposed roots.

Here is the photo. The tree trunk is open so roots can flow out. It's not complete. The rocks on the right are just resting there and not put down. I am still placing them once a tree is planted.
{{gwi:20115}}

Try Googling 'Retusa root propagation' because I know there was at least one if not more sites/pgs where they give directions for doing it, involving the use of drinking straws, sphagnum, lots of humidity, etc. Have you ever done a slab before? Are you planning any kind of edging to keep it all from washing away? You could use a recipe for "muck" (something else to Google, along with 'bonsai'). Is the rock very smooth, or is there some texture? Have you looked at bonsaihunk.us/cultural.html for terrific advice on Ficus in general? Do it - a really good place to learn.

The easiest and most secure way to put a tree on a slab/rock is by drilling a few shallow holes and then using split-shot to hold wire in the holes. The wire is then put around a few larger roots to hold the tree in place. Most fishing tackle stores have the split-shot in various sizes.

If you have some roots you're planning to expose now just raise the bottom of the tree on a piece of rock before you secure it.

Bob

Is there a safe way to drill into rock slab? I do not want to crack it.

Gardener guy

Use a drill bit for ceramics (or whatever the guy at the hardware store recommends).

A masonary bit does a good job, that looks like it may be common sandstone so it should be fairly soft. I have no idea of the size of the slab. Take your time and use lots of water to make cutting easier.

Bob

Another tip that may or may not be applicable...

Whenever I cut or drill material prone to cracking, I use masking tape over the edge or hole I'm cutting.

Josh

There are 2-part plumbers epoxies that comes in a 'loaf' about the size of a tube of Chapstick. One part of the epoxy is the outer covering and the inner part of the epoxy is the other half. You simply cut off a small piece and mix the two parts together (like modeling clay). After it's mixed, you press the putty and your wire firmly onto the surface of the clean slab anywhere you want them. In 5-20 minutes (depending on what you buy), the wires are completely secure - no holes required.

Copy paste this to your browser for a look:

http://www.shopwiki.com/Devcon+PC+PLUMBING%22+EPOXY+PUTTY+2+oz

Al

I've tried that Devcon in the past with bad results, even the longer cure epoxies will let go after a few months. If the hole is drilled, taking your time, it's not a problem.

If it is sandstone that is pretty easy to drill anyway.

Bob

Hmmmm - must be the choice of product. I've even used it to secure trees (wires) to the bottom of shallow ceramic trays/oval pots, & had to cut the wires at repot time because I couldn't pull them free w/o risking breaking the pot.

If you DO decide to drill. 3-point/spear point/spade drills like the one seen at the link below are much better than masonry drills. They need to be cooled with water (to extend life) and come in many sizes. Get them at hardwares & big box stores.

Al

Here is a link that might be useful: The bit

I drill holes in ceramic pots and never had a problem using a ceramic bit.

Jane

It's always a good thing when you find something that works, but I'm unfamiliar with the term 'ceramic bit'. There are bits designed to drill a wide range of vitrified products, but as far as I know, nothing specifically designed for ceramic. Please supply a link to a picture of the bit you're referring to, or describe it in greater detail so the forum has a better understanding of what you're using.

FWIW: Having drilled thousands of holes in very hard material like glass, pottery, bottles, pyroceram, ceramic tile, granite, earthenware ..... (we install somewhere around 10 shower doors each week, more than half in ceramic tile or granite ..... I own a glass company, so drilling these types of material is literally an every day chore), I can probably comment on the relative efficiency of most drill bit types, including whichever bit you referred to as a 'ceramic bit'. The best choice of bits hinges on hole size required and how hard the material is. While there are several bit types that will get the job done, some work better/faster/more efficiently than others. For example, a masonry bit works well for soft materials like terra cotta, but the spearpoint bit works much better. When it comes to highly vitrified materials like high-fired ceramic, masonry bits don't work well at all and the spearpoint bits shine.

As mentioned, a picture or a link to a picture of what you use, just to clarify - so we can see what you mean, would be nice.

Al

The bit I use was purchased as a 'ceramic drill bit.' Its used with water. I worked in stained glass for many years making glass panels for doors and window frames, etc. It drills through glass or any type of ceramic. I use it to drill holes in decorative vases for displaying plants. I have also used it for glazed clay pots without problems.

I thought it was a common bit and always called it a ceramic bit. Mine was purchased at my glass shop, but I know you can get them in hardware stores. Ask for a ceramic bit.

Sorry, I didn't think it was such a complicated bit. I can check with friends for the technical name.
Jane

Please do. It's still unclear what you were referring to. I also have a stained glass studio as part of my operation, and it sounds like your 'ceramic drill' is probably a (diamond impregnated) core drill. If so, they are much slower than the spear-point drill and several times the price, depending on the quality. Nothing wrong with the way they work - just considerable overkill for soft stone.

Al

No, use my grinder attachment for that. This is bit which fits in my small Makaska (sp?)hand drill. It is pointy, I get it started slowly with gradual pressure. It does a nice job. My drill is electric and in warm weather I keep the hose on the spot while I drill. I have also used it over the sink (not recommended).

My husband reminded me that he bought one of them a few years ago in our local hardware store. He asked for a ceramic drill bit. We don't know it by any other name. I've used it for years but will ask my glass friends.

Seems we are 'Jack's' of all trades. Worked with glass for 20 years until I broke my shoulder 8 yrs ago. I can't put enough pressure to cut well anymore. Loved doing small, intricate cuts for lamps. Found I could make a business of it by making kitchen-cabinet door panels. Everyone wanted them 15 yrs ago. It was a lot of work but I loved it. Now I just drill holes in pots. What kind of things do you do with glass?

I'll see if I can get the name of the bit.

Jane

I love this Information on bits. It's realy useful but I am using stone not glass. Well, maybe it doesn't matter if it's glass or stone. I think it does matter, so I am going to use a masonry bit; but then again those types of bit can cut glass, too. I wouldn't use them on glass though. I would use Diamond tip drill bits for glass. I use Diamond tip for all my ceramic material (e.g. pots), too.

Al, I believe Jane is referring to a "Tile Bit". This is my opinion. I found a website explaining drill bits.

More people should see this site it's great:

http://www.diydata.com/tool/drillbits/drillbits.php

Have a great day,

Gardener Guy