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| I too want to start growing a bonsai. I really don't know much about the subject. I realize this is a stupid question to be asking in a Bonsai forum, but can anyone help me with some questions?
1.) I'm going to get some books on the subject, what can you recommend?
Thanks. |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| If NOT on a bonsai forum, then where? Stupid would be to NOT ask. Anyhow, in no order... bonsai do not have to be expensive at all. It depends on what you want to grow, whether it requires supplemental lighting, or having to order particular trees because they're not available where you are, and whether you choose to buy a large one (or at least one trained for many years by someone else) or DIY from a relatively young tree found at the local nursery or even your backyard (the latter is definitely not recommended until you have some experience growing them as some special care is required). It's always better to start with trees at least a few (3-5) years old because you'll have nothing to work with otherwise, though growing from seed on the side is fine for the experience, but lots of patience is needed. Good bonsai are usually trained by cutting back older trees and regrowing and training new branches - the proportions of an older, fatter trunk to smaller top growth giving the illusion of age. You do need to know your USDA zone if you grow trees outdoors (you're likely in 5, if not even 4, which is colder, depending on your local climate). For growing indoors, you'll need to rig humidity trays for most trees - just big wide drain saucers (cheap plastic ones from Wal-Mart, etc.) full of water and stones, always keeping water just below the pot-supporting stones so roots don't rot from wicking water back inside). Ideally, full spectrum T5 fluorescents (4' are usual) hung just 4-6 inches above the trees for up to 16 hours a day - timers are inexpensive - is also routine, though from just after the last frost in late spring through early Oct. it's also better to keep most outdoors for better growth. Ficus are good to start out with, but most people have problems with lack of light and wanting to water too often, though the last can be dealt with by learning to repot from the usually crummy mass marketed 'potting soil' (full of water retaining peat), into a gritty bonsai mix (which very often, especially for outdoor trees like pines) has no real 'soil' in it at all so can be left to average rain showers as they'll drain quickly. Now all that being said, there is SO much more to it than I could begin to list here, and I strongly suggest you don't spend any money yet, but do a lot of reading (more below), find a local club to join - there are good ones in MI - as they're the best places to learn by seeing how things are carried out and being able to ask all your questions (each answer raises more!) and by looking at www.bonsai4me.com and www.bonsaihunk.us/cultural.html, and www.bonsaisite.com (the forums) as well as others. As far as reading goes, there are recommendations on the sites, but again some books may leave you with more Q's than A's, and a bit of confusion re terms used! Good luck and have fun! PS - it's the wrong time of year to be starting out with anything but tropicals, as 'outdoor' trees are all going dormant for winter (and none will survive indoors anyhow - though all newbies want to try). Do NOT let store clerks, even sage sounding types in bonsai stores advise you on growing - most are trained to tell you what you want to hear, or worse, out of date or just plain wrong information (plus tags on the trees are generic and literally worse than useless as they say the same thing for every species!). |
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| What would be defined as a "tropical tree", something like a Japanese maple? Aside from that, I'm thinking about buying a 3 year old bonsai from somewhere, not sure where yet, and planting a seed to grow in addition to that. After researching a bit more of course. I've never had a real problem with keeping other plants alive; cacti, bamboo, etc. Though they seem more hardy than a bonsai. I have looked up some clubs, but the closet one seems to be quite a distance away, I live in the Detroit area. There maybe a few around there that I'm missing though. |
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| I was thinking about buying a 3 year old Japanese maple because I have heard many positive things about them. Should I wait until spring to purchase it, or should I try something different? |
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| dude, get a ficus for indoors and a juniper for outdoors.... oh and the most helpful books i own are from "sunset" they have about 3 bonsai books and pretty much break down the whole bonsai concept for you.... and make sure you read the part about the soil and potting first if you're just gonna browse through the book... if you have any questions, just post them here... i own over 50 bonsai and have about 15 different types, so i should beable to answer almost anything you throw at me... and i'm just warning you; bonsai is more addicting than crack! |
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| Hi - Japanese maples are 'outdoor' trees just like any maple and are not tropical 'anythings'. Tropicals are those from tropical origins (countries) like most of the house plants sold in the supermarket or anywhere else they're sold. Maples need to be outdoors for life and must also have below freezing cold for months to renew themselves. Just like pines, (most) oaks, junipers, etc. etc. Sunset Bonsai bks are a nice intro, but I'd want more in depth knowledge before getting started. I strongly urge you to go to www.bonsai4me.com, www.bonsaihunk.us/cultural.html regarding tropicals (whole sections on ficus) and www.evergreengardenworks.com (mostly for outdoor trees, but with so much good, basic general info. on bonsai. I didn't write all that stuff before just for fun - and it only scratches the surface. If you want to just get some old thing from the mall and watch it do badly (at best) from lack of knowledgable care, go ahead, but what usually happens afterward is that you end up discouraged and never want to do bonsai at all, and that would be a shame. Why not have the patience to learn a little first (if you don't have enough patience for that, forget bonsai anyhow) and have half a chance of success? |
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| 'Tropical' for your zone could be plants such as Serissa. You might also use a 'Jade Plant' which develops a satsifying trunk quite quickly. (You mentioned you were cactus-confident, so a succulent could be a starter - and would be kept indoors over winter.) Before buying books - make good use of the search engines. There are several different expressions of bonsai. The formal Japanese styles are just one form. As you look at what people of various countries have posted on the Web you could find yourself drawn to one or several of the methods and ways of growing small trees artistically in containers. As you look at the pictures you might want to take the time to ask 'I wonder how they did that?!' Then, when you are reading through directions for wiring, or pruning and pinching, or in-ground growing there'll be a mental picture and it will make a lot more sense. Expensive: it can be but doesn't have to be. Those gorgeous pots and elegant stands aren't needed for growing on young plants. In fact, it's probably better to wait a few years until the tree is leaving its gangly juvenile phase and is developing character and style before looking around for the perfect pot to show off your artistry. If you are 'handy' you can quite easily make up wooden pot forms for use, or buy durable plastic bonsai pots, or make your own from hypertufa. The plants don't mind (except for maybe maples and satsuki azaleas in a new 'tufa. Let the cement weather out first.) Tools and wire. Ah, yes. You can definitely spend a lot here - but you don't need to. For example - root rakes. Get an old screwdriver with a comfortable wooden handle and shape the blade on the grindstone before putting it in a vise and bending the shaft to suit yourself. Snippers and loppers - ignore 'stainless steel' - its so hard to put an edge on them and keep them sharp. Go for a steel that will take an edge and that you can keep clean with rubbing alcohol and a touch of 3-in-1 oil. If you have an urge toward forming elegant 'dragon's eye' calluses on the trunk then investing in knob cutters may well be worth it. Chopsticks are excellent for putting earth in around the roots when you're repotting. And they're generally cheap. I personally prefer bamboo ones because they take on a pleasing and useful shape after being used in gritty mixes over time. Something about 'the patina of age' ;-) From what you've said you are already confident with plant care so the annual repot for young stock will find you prepared with mixing bowls, work surface and watering devices, plus mesh and 'copper butterflies' to hold the mesh over the drainage holes. (You can also use plastic mesh.) And an ancient toothbrush, fairly firm, which is most useful for cleaning unwanted moss from trunks without causing harm. If you aren't doing zillions of plants then quite small containers for graded grit and additives, plus any fertilisers you choose should be plenty to start with. Sometimes at my local club there is a "True Confessions' session where the older artists mention their favourite tools - and the ones they bought in Japan which they keep for show and never use! When it comes to special soils - you might want to, and budget accordingly, but many people grow bonsai very well where those mixes are either unobtainable or not permitted as imports. You've already been warned that this is an addictive hobby. Enjoy! |
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| I know what you mean about the bonsais at the mall. I saw one and it was covered in glue, and the label said nothing about what kind of plant it was. |
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